Help! I need a diagnosis

K

karnival8

Hey Guys!
 
So a few weeks ago I bought some peppers. I transplanted them this weekend. They look sick and are in trouble. 
 
Right now, in Los Angeles, we are experiencing 2 back to back heat waves so the temperature has been swinging wildly. (one wave before the transplant, and one now)
 
When I transplanted, I used a regular potting soil, and immediately watered with the recommended dose of ThriveAlive. 
 
I thought that I had overfertilized and then flushed the pots.
 
Well yesterday was almost 100 degress and I notices that some of plants were wiliting and the pots and soil were burning hot, so I watered again. 
 
Whatever I do seems to make it worse. 
 
Please please help. 
 
Enclosed are pictures of my serrano (which looks stringy and thin) the jalepenos which are yellowing, and a red cherry which is new but it's health is degrading quickly. 
 
All of the jalepenos - about 8 - are exerpiencing the exact same symptoms - leaf yellowing and weak.
All of the serranos - about 10 - are also the same - stringy, leaves narrow, cupping, and pointing straight down.
 
If it's overwatering, what do I do?
 
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karnival8 said:
 
 
If it's overwatering, what do I do?
 
Click to expand...
 
Stop watering them.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Serious answer: (2 options)
 
1. Repot... again. Put into a dry potting soil with no artificial fertilizers till the plant recovers. Probably a week or two.
 
2. Let it dry out in the sun naturally.
 
Over watering can lock out nutrients and show symptoms similar to the pictures you posted.
 
Good. 
 
Is there a way to quantitatively measure the moisture level of the soil? For example, if I buy a moisture meter, what is the target value?
 
R
 
I'd say definitely not buy a moisture meter. Consumer grade ones are iffy at best and they break fast.
 
Water until soil is very damp and make sure to let soil dry completely between waterings. I think that is your problem. The amount of water you are giving them is probably fine, but it is too frequent.
 
I think some midday shade would help during the heat wave. (97degrees up here and all my juveniles are in the shade) a few days of shade is alot easier to survive than a few days at 95+ in direct sun imo. they do look over watered as well, the soil looks like it holds a lot of water. cutting it with about 20% perlite or rice hulls will help make it more airy.
 
 oh and dont waiste ur money on the novelty meter.
 
I would avoid black pots, or you can put outside something , or something to reflect the heat (aluminum foil?) Also watering them in the morning and letting them in the sun (you wrote "the pots and soil were burning hot") will "boil" them. I think is better to water them in the evening.
 
All of my final pots, are spray painted white. It helps a lot.

Fill one pot with dry soil to compare your planted pots with, i.e., their weight. I don't like completely drying out my plants, but either way, the pot with dry soil will tell you when you're close. Eventually, you won't need it.
 
karnival8 said:
Good. 
 
Is there a way to quantitatively measure the moisture level of the soil? For example, if I buy a moisture meter, what is the target value?
 
R
Click to expand...
 
 
yes,
 
And it is very easy and cheap (free).
 
Method 1
  1. Stick your finger in to the soil up to your second knuckle (or about 1.5").
  2. Feel for wet soil.
  3. If you feel wetness, wait until you don't then water.
Method 2 (may fluxuate in hot weather)
  1. In the EVENING when not hot out, look for wilting
  2. Water if Wilting
  3. Keep track of how long it takes to  get to wilting again
  4. use the determined amount days -1 as a watering schedule.
 
Or you could get one of these   :rofl:
http://www.amazon.com/Woodstream-WW100DSP-Wormie-Water-Sensor/dp/B0006IH3TC
31Wo8j%2BjunL.jpg
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I think the problem is you've done too much.

They look like they need a bigger pot to me but hard to tell from the angle of the photos. Check the bottom for roots poking out, if so, repot.

If the soil is waterlogged then you can change it but this will stress the plant more so I would not myself. Instead I would try to increase the rate of evaporation by using a fan to increase airflow.

then i'd remove dead material and leave it to it. And not water at all until totally bone dry, even if it takes a month!
 
Guys its been a week and no change. An inch down, soil is slightly damp but barely noticeable. Do I stay the course? If anything, it's gotten slightly worse. 
I moved them to partial shade. 
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What brand of soil are you using? i have had some cheapo off brand soils try to kill plants before. one time i got some that looked like it was half tree chipper mulch. the problem with that is certain wood is bad. like oak among others can cause  ph problems. now if its pine bark its all good though.
 
there have been times i cant figure it out, i pulled em up hose off the roots and replant with different soil.
if you go this route i would suggest foxfarm ocean forest. it may take a couple weeks but they bounce back.
 
Overall that is looking not so healthy. You may have attracted fungus gnats, or some harmful fungal infestation due to the previous overwatering. I am especially concerned by the way the leaves curl up at the edges.
 
Well you haven't watered in a week and they still are the same.
 
No one has mentioned the fert dose you shot them with, maybe they didn't like that right after the repot?
 
Another thought is that you have perched water issues with your potting soil... water thats sitting in the bottom and not draining. One way to fix this (I've yet to experiment with this) is to use a wick to trick the water out. Here is a link to what I mean: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0513444332031.html
 
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