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Help improving my setup (heat, light etc)

This year I moved my seed starting setup to our uninsulated porch.  Porch is 13' x 16' cement pad that sits 3' below ground level and is surrounded by windows on 2 sides.  They called it a sun room but it doesn't get very much sun.
 
Our house is small and we really needed the space inside.  Now that the porch is mine, I plan to build a second grow box for flowers.  However, both setups are now subject to midwest temp swings.  In the winter, the porch temp is usually 20-30F above the ambient outdoor temp.
 
temp_zpspb4qe7m0.jpg

 
Grow box dimensions:
60" L x 18" W x 29" H
PepperBox_zpsemm8eswa.jpg

42EB92BA-4364-4610-8F84-581D6C81F21E_zpsfibzmsoj.jpg

 
 
The box is insulated on all six sides by 1" of exterior foam board insulation and tape.  An eight inch fan circulates air on its lowest setting.
 
The box is lit by 6 T8 bulbs spanning the 60" L and the full 18" W.  These are on 24/7 for heat.  It's very inefficient but my only option at the moment.
 
I have a seedling starter heat mat and temperature controller under my germ tray.  
 
Problem 1: Heat 
 
I need a better way of maintaining the box temperature so I can run the lights 18 on 6 off.  I don't feel comfortable running a cheap indoor space heater on a temperature controller.  That seems like a huge fire hazard and most are overkill for such a small space.  Is there such thing as a small, self regulating greenhouse heater?  I am also thinking about lining the bottom with one big heating mat and a temperature controller.  I'm not sure if this would generate enough ambient heat above the soil.  I could also insulate the porch and heat it but that doesn't exactly fit my budget at the moment.  I'm very interested in other suggestions/solutions.
 
Problem 2: Watering tray
 
It really sucks individually watering a 60" x 18" space filled with solo cups.  Standard greenhouse trays will fit but will lead to wasted space.  Has anyone had luck building a waterproof 'tray' for bottom watering?  Keep in mind compatibility with a heating solution. 
 
Design improvement: Light
 
The 6 T8 bulbs have been great for seedlings, but I would like to run one of the two boxes all year for fresh pods.  HID, be it CMH, HPS or MH, isn't exactly suited for my grow box dimensions.  I don't think the benefits of upgrading to a T5 setup would be worth the cost.  At this point I am thinking LED and make vs buy.  I might just bite the bullet and order one of these and call it done.  I'll continue reading on this subject as it is not an immediate problem like the other two. Again open for suggestions. 
 
Another idea:
Maybe this is a situation of the tail wagging the dog.  Rather than building a second, identical shelf, maybe I should get a tent and run HPS or MH.  Use the tent for over winter and my current shelf for starting seedlings.
 
 
Thanks for reading through this,
Nick 
 
EDIT 1: clarified some points under light
EDIT 2: another idea section added
EDIT 3: porch dimensions
EDIT 4: Platinum LED appears to be re branded Eshine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4qJRZ6LGtI
 
I can only assume from your posted temp you are in northern  or at least central IN. That being the case your choices are very limited and probably costly unless you are Mcgyver.
You never stated the dims of the porch area but anyway.
Temporarily close off and insulate the porch area. Then add a small temp regulated space heater and an acceptable HID lighting system. You then have adequate space, heat and light. Watering then become a different issue.
 
CAPCOM said:
I can only assume from your posted temp you are in northern  or at least central IN. That being the case your choices are very limited and probably costly unless you are Mcgyver.
You never stated the dims of the porch area but anyway.
Temporarily close off and insulate the porch area. Then add a small temp regulated space heater and an acceptable HID lighting system. You then have adequate space, heat and light. Watering then become a different issue.
 
Porch is 13' x 16' cement pad that sits 3' below ground level and is surrounded by windows on 2 sides.  They called it a sun room but it doesn't get very much sun.  Updated OP
 
I was thinking of framing off a portion and insulating.  Cost is competitive compared to decent grow tent costs.
 
13' x 16' is a nice size space. If you commit to a portion of that section for grow and get addicted to peppers and growing them as most do, you will wish you had converted the whole space at the same time. You can always choose not use a portion of the converted space, but it is always be there after you make the decision now to make it available. Trust me 13x 16 will be consumed real fast especially if you start storing containers and growing media and everything else related.
 
hi
 for what its worth my opinion
in anycase growing in an out building is just headache for climate control other than heat you have humidity to deal with
 
 
Problem 1: 
 
not much you can do there-on cement below ground=cold
you can try a few things firtsly run you lights so the light off period is in the warmest part of the day
 
Problem 2: Watering tray
 
no need to build just buy any plastic trey that fits-i use those treys for shoes like the ones ppl put at the door so when snow melts off boots it collects
or just use a storage tub from a dollar store etc-no need to get fancy
 
Design improvement: Light
 
if u go with led def build as those ones u linked r pretty crap i reckon
but seen as you need heat it could be wiser to use HPS as a light/heater
 
and so id recomend you portion off a larger section for fruiting rather than a tent because you can use styrofoam/ other insulation( you need to get away from the cold concrete) for all year round and run either mh or hps
 
if u want smth pimp look into the 315w LEC or cmh set ups
 
agian because u need heat LED is kinda a bad idea even though i love building led lights
 
I picked up a small tube heater from my local hydro store which i use to keep one of my tents warm during the winter months. I control the temperature using a raspberry pi with a 1 wire temp sensor, but there's no reason you couldn't do the same with somekind of temperature probe to switch the heater on and off as needed.
 
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