health Help! Weird Leave spots

Just wanted to post a quick update. 
 
Changed the dosing formula to include the calimagic. With my current tap water at 250 ppm, I am using .5tsp / gal micro - .5tsp gal/gro - .5tsp - .5tsp gal/bloom - .5tsp gal/calimagic. That combined with the tap water brought the total ppm to 650 ( 5 gallons at a time) - give and take a little due to adding ph down to get it to 5.8. The plant with the worst leaves, I ended up pulling anything that even showed any kind of spotting. 24 hours after adding nutes, I went back and checked the ph and ppm. Surprisingly the ph shot up to 7 and the total ppm was down to 300. The other plants had a ph of 6.5 with a ppm of 500. In my opinion from what I've gathered, the worst plant was drinking mostly nutes and leaving a lot of water behind. the others I give them a week before running down. I usually do my nute changes every 2 weeks but now I'll have to start doing them every week to reup the nute strength. I feel like they were just going to long without any nutes being added back. Since adding the calimagic, the plants are looking better than ever. 
 
looks like u got this under control but was gonna say its a calcium def(crinkled leaves) and a magnesium def( rusty leaves)
 
How did everything work out? Did we determine what the problem was? I am having the same spotting on the leaves. I had neglected checking the pH and ec of my nutes for a couple of weeks, when I changed out the nutes what remained had a pH of 7.8 and ec of 300ppm. The new solutions has a pH of 5.5 and ec of 710. I just changed the nutes today so I'll see how things improve.
 

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ONe thing that would help for sure, is if people would stop trying to grow peppers like they grow marijuana.  There is no need to "veg" and "bloom" a pepper plant.  Stick to the moderate grow schedule for all phases of the plant's life, unless there is a legitimate need to increase the nutrients.  "If some is good, then more is better" does not apply, here.
 
The EC issue would be suspect every time.  There could be something in your water that is attaching to something in the nutrients, making it unavailable to the plant.   Definitely use RO water, when you can't eliminate any other suspect.  Chances are, there's nothing wrong with the nutrients, per se.
 
Here's a poser, for me anyway. Out of a dozen cups of aji amarillos and two of TM scorpion, two and only two are affected. I hope the pics are clear enough.
 
Calcium?
 
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I have a jug of NutriCal, 6-0-0, I don't want to add another devil to the formula if it isn't necessary. The other plants in the room are spot free, all have gotten the same water (snow melt) and a small addition of Epsom salt.
I also have some new fert coming, a 3-1-2 Botanicare product. At one point I thought this was burn from the lights after misting, but it continues on these plants after ceasing and desisting with the misting....
 
 
 
I can't really tell from the pics what those spots are, but I've seen spots very much like that from mite infestations.

Do you have any small specks on the underside of the leaves?  Any silky webs?
 
You definitely don't need to add that 6-0-0.  That's just Nitrogen, and your leaves are already humongous.  For what you've got now, I'd add less, not more.
 
solid7 said:
I can't really tell from the pics what those spots are, but I've seen spots very much like that from mite infestations.

Do you have any small specks on the underside of the leaves?  Any silky webs?
 
You definitely don't need to add that 6-0-0.  That's just Nitrogen, and your leaves are already humongous.  For what you've got now, I'd add less, not more.
Click to expand...
 
Well, all my plants are tightly packed into one tray, lots of leaf contact, and these are the only plants affected, and no, there are aren't any signs of mites, though I'll recheck.
 
The NutriCal was purchased for my tomato crops--I was having a plague of blossom end rot and this stuff put a quick end to it. It's a topical though, and requires to be misted, at least from the destructions at the website.
 
All the other plants in the tray are lush and green, which might mean I should consider at least isolating, if not discarding the affected plants. I am in zone 3, won't be putting these outside for 4 and a half months.
 
That's not a calcium deficiency.

At first glance, and as noted, it looks like puncture wounds, caused by some sort of insect. (my experience notably being mites)  However, it could be possible that you've introduced some leaf spot or leaf scorch through your foliar spray.  I'd definitely stop doing that.  
 
The spraying stopped some time ago, on January 9. In fact, the spotting disappeared from all the plants but this aji after that, but the scorpion started spotting afterward.
I'm having a devil of a time getting a decent pic taken.
 
This is the top, with the aji Amarillo leaf above the TM scorpion.
 
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And the underside.
 
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The aji amarillos actually looked worse for spotting earlier in the month, this one plant seems a stubborn holdout.
 
Those burnt looking spots look like my Scotch Bonnet leaves at the tips last year.  When they went outside and got a little too much hot sun at one sitting. 
 
twiasp said:
Those burnt looking spots look like my Scotch Bonnet leaves at the tips last year.  When they went outside and got a little too much hot sun at one sitting. 
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These haven't seen sunlight of any kind since New Years Day. They aren't all that close to the LED lights either, a good three inches or more shorter than the aji amarillos.
 
That "burn", as bad as it looks, is only on one leaf. The discoloration on other leaves is a purplish mottling that starts back towards the leaf stem. Again, only on one plant.
 
It still looks like leaf spot or leaf burn to me.  The other pics that look sort cankerous are most likely a bacterial or fungal issue, due to too moisture on the lesions on the leaf.
 
If you stop spraying, it should go away.  You may want to remove all affected leaves, for the time being.
 
solid7 said:
Did you just repost pics?  I didn't see those before, for some reason.
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I added a couple others after trying to get better resolution and isolating the leaves. I have separated the affected plants from the healthy, I'd hate to consider it, but if this doesn't improve with new growth I suppose I may have to dispose of these two...
 
Again, I quit spraying them over ten days ago. The burn on the Trinidad Moruga Scorpion started after the misting was ceased.
 
The humidity in my grow room is at 32%. That should help in eradicating a fungus issue, yes?
 
stettoman said:
 
I added a couple others after trying to get better resolution and isolating the leaves. I have separated the affected plants from the healthy, I'd hate to consider it, but if this doesn't improve with new growth I suppose I may have to dispose of these two...
 
Again, I quit spraying them over ten days ago. The burn on the Trinidad Moruga Scorpion started after the misting was ceased.
 
The humidity in my grow room is at 32%. That should help in eradicating a fungus issue, yes?
Click to expand...
 
I honestly don't know what the normal range for growroom humidity is supposed to be, because I don't have a growroom.  Living in Florida, you can imagine that there isn't much for me to control humidity wise outdoors, and indoors, my only means of doing so, is air conditioning. 
 
If it's fungal, you might end up having to use an anti-fungal.  But start with leaf pruning.  Don't worry if it's a little unsightly.  It will grow back.  What you get when it grows back might be the best indicator of your next course of action.  It might also be helpful to plant another out, concurrently.  If you isolate the first one, and attempt to treat the cause, you'll get some valuable experience along the way.  And you'll be able to hope for the best, while preparing for the worst.  In the perfect situation, your new plant might outgrow the "sick" one.  Or they'll both come good, and you'll have a dilemma. (which friend to give a plant to)
 
Yup, did some unsightly pruning work. Nodes are already fairly robust, maybe this will motivate them a bit more.
 
Humidity in my lake-infested part of the country varies between 70 and 90 percent in the summer. In the winter we can have humidity in the single digits when it's cold enough. 35% is pretty low for 70 degrees outside, I was commenting on humidity not for plant growth but for propagation of molds and fungi.
 
This is my first indoor growing endeavor, and even with the complications I'm really amazed at the results I'm getting. I have at least 4 months before any of these can go outside in the dirt. I started these in November/December, I'd really like to have some of these aji amarillos to be able to mature in a bare 3 month growing season.
 
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