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Do you need help identifying a 🌶?
Is your plant suffering from an unknown issue? 🤧
Then ask in Identification and Diagnosis.
hi all
- Thread starter thoms
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thoms said:
Looking at the area surrounding your fields, see below, my opinion is you will never be able to eliminate these pests as they are in the surrounding vegetation and will travel to your plants. Constant application of pesticide will probably be your only hope.
Any chance the Ministry of Agriculture (Indonesia) can help with recommendations?
the ministry of agriculture never came to my location. I always use the active ingredient Abamectin to kill fleas, but they are always there and continue to attack my plantsThe_NorthEast_ChileMan said:
Looking at the area surrounding your fields, see below, my opinion is you will never be able to eliminate these pests as they are in the surrounding vegetation and will travel to your plants. Constant application of pesticide will probably be your only hope.
Any chance the Ministry of Agriculture (Indonesia) can help with recommendations?
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thoms said:
Yes.
It's a very important distinction, when you're using similar terms.
You mentioned Abamectin - this is really bad stuff. I'd do anything I could to get away from it. It's really deadly to bees, in particular. If I've got a stand of chili plants, I'd work hard to keep bees on them. I don't think Neem will be practical for what you're doing, though.
thoms said:
I am the biggest believer here in natural methods... But this just isn't true. AACT will not keep pests off of plants. I've tried it many times. I want to believe. But the results just don't lie. Maybe it works for some, but here where it's hot and humid, it certainly does not. If you are going to try it, I'd suggest to only try it on a small area of your crop first, so you have something to compare with. It will be a significant amount of work to apply it repeatedly.
Just some thoughts, since my climate is similar to yours, and I have many of the same issues... I would have a serious look at how much fertilizer you're applying, and whether it's necessary. Unlike cooler climates, even slow release fertilizers start getting taken up right away, and you may be unintentionally adding too much. This can cause pests to head straight for your plants. Unlike where I live, it looks like you have fairly fertile soil. It might be beneficial for you to consider a long term strategy, if you plan to grow again and again. I might advise you to no-till your field. Especially if you are going to use plastic mulch. At the end of your grow, cut your plants down to the ground, but leave the plastic, to solarize the soil, and kill the pest eggs. Additionally, compost all of your old plants. You can use this for your AACT, if you want to go that way.
Your fertilizer can be also be applied in the off-season, since it will be sequestered in the soil. Then, when you plant, and don't till the soil, you will just be tapping into nutrients, rather than continually supplying them. You may also consider "fallow" years, where you don't plant anything at all, and just let the ground rest. And the king of healthy soil building methods, is to add lots and lots of organic matter to your soil. (you can get so much out of that forest around your field) I have found that this is the best method of any. Plants that are growing well in healthy soil, have far fewer pests, and outgrow fertilized plants in traditionally farmed methods.
okay thanks for the advice, every year I sow organic fertilizer from quail droppings to the soil and supply chemical fertilizer gradually, during the growing period I supply fertilizer by mixing water, when fruiting supplies fertilizer by sowing in a hole next to the plant.solid7 said:
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thoms said:
After finding below I know where "mimba" comes from:
In Indonesia, the most common use for neem (also known locally as mimba) is for pesticide/insecticide. The alternatives for this use are : mindi leaves (Melia azedarach), papaya leaves, castor oil (Ricinus communis), and yam (Dioscorea hispida).
thoms said:
For me, this is WAY too much fertilizing. It doesn't surprise me that you would have an issue with aphids. I don't really deal with thrips, so I can't say if that would attract them. But I know from experience, that the fastest way to have aphid problems, is to overfertilize.
There is absolutely no need to start fertilizing just when pods appear. That's actually the wrong time. You want your Potassium in the ground before fruits form. Potassium is taken up, and held in reserve during the entire plant life cycle, and used only when needed. Unless you are really throwing out many bushels of pods, on a regular basis, supplemental fertilizing during fruiting is almost unnecessary. Especially if you've got healthy soil. This may be why you are struggling with the pests.
Are you growing for a set amount of time, and then culling the entire field?
thoms said:
thoms said:
thoms said:
Well, not sure the logistics/cost of sending it to ID..?
1 gallon neem should make 200-250 gallons mix.
To drench completely 50 medium size plants I use 4 gallons mix no problem. I'm very liberal with my spray and err on the heavy side. But when I'm done no soft bodied sucking insect is alive. Keep in mind neem is not a 1 time spray. So, you said your pepper patch is 4000 plants..? that would take approximately 2 gallons of pure cold pressed neem for every spray, if my math is correct.
As with most organic less harsh methods, after initial knock down, a constant preventative spray every 7-14 days will be needed. @ $50-75 per gallon neem oil cold pressed, each spray will cost you $100-150 and probably a full night to spray, putting down close to 400 gallons mix on your 1.25 acre pepper patch.
If you are having a current infestation of Aphids, here is something you could do immediately with whats on hand locally. You probably already know how to make it, but I'll give you what I use to do before using neem, and it worked pretty good. Not as good as neem for any lasting repellent type properties, but it did the job very inexpensively.
A simple home made insecticidal soap. 1 gallon water to 2.5 tablespoons mild soap mixed with 2.5 tablespoons vegetable oil, or peanut, or corn, or soybean oil. Add 1tbs cider vinegar if powdery mildew is also a problem. Some recipes call for 5tbs soap/1 cup of oil but that much is not needed imo. You must keep it mixed/shaken vigorously. Keep shaking your sprayer constantly. If your water is hard use distilled water as hard water will make your insecticidal soap much less effective...Keep sprayer pumped up to max pressure. For this to work you need a strong spray that drenches undersides of leaves/tops/stems and gets into every nook and cranny....
So you mean the small hole next to the larger plant hole, right?thoms said:
And this is the fertilizer you use, correct?
Does the package have a recommended dilution rate? like 1 package per 20 liters of water? The reason I ask is we often recommend using fertilizer at a lower percentage than the manufacture does.
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thoms said:
Fleas don't attack plants and Abamectin is for fleas/ticks/spiders.
Here in the US we can contact agriculture agencies for help.>Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources They don't have to visit the site. Didn't know it that was available to you.
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As far as I know, Actively Aerobic Compost Tea is for soil soil improvement, not pest control. But I could be wrong?thoms said: