I Just Moved to some Apartments with a small Back Yard, I Put Most of My Plants in the Ground and They are Loving it, Seems like The Dirt is has either better qualities than the soil in my pots, Well the Problem is that the Neighbors and Obviously The apartments aint working out and Might Move, Not Sure How Soon or Late but Is There a Safe Way To Take Em out of the Ground and Put them Back in the Pots without Killing them?
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in-ground How To Remove plant From Ground To Pot?
- Thread starter OROZCONLECHE
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Shovel?
Sounds Great is There a Chance they Might Die from this?
I tried to do it at the end of the last season just to gain a couple of weeks more... Even if our soil is a clay one, the root ball of my Red Hab plant got big.
After putting it into the pot
After one week it looked like:
I guess there were two reasons why I was not successful with it:
- I disturbed/cut the root zone badly
- There was no hardening off made, and from the 5-7 Celsius outside I put it to 20 Celsius inside... It has lost all of the leaves, but none of the peppers.
I am just writing it to show you how you should not do this procedure :-)
Balázs
After putting it into the pot
After one week it looked like:
I guess there were two reasons why I was not successful with it:
- I disturbed/cut the root zone badly
- There was no hardening off made, and from the 5-7 Celsius outside I put it to 20 Celsius inside... It has lost all of the leaves, but none of the peppers.
I am just writing it to show you how you should not do this procedure :-)
Balázs
Seems like I Would have to Cut more outward and seems like a tough Job but If it has to Be Done It Has to be Tried I guess
I tried to do it at the end of the last season just to gain a couple of weeks more... Even if our soil is a clay one, the root ball of my Red Hab plant got big.
After putting it into the pot
After one week it looked like:
I guess there were two reasons why I was not successful with it:
- I disturbed/cut the root zone badly
- There was no hardening off made, and from the 5-7 Celsius outside I put it to 20 Celsius inside... It has lost all of the leaves, but none of the peppers.
I am just writing it to show you how you should not do this procedure :-)
Balázs
Ever read Guru's Guide to over wintering? He says that you need to cut back the leaves to less or equal to the root ball size after potting... So if you cut back the roots you need to cut back the same amount of leaves. I never tried it, I'm just sharing what I read.
http://thehotpepper.com/topic/25596-the-comprehensive-guide-to-over-wintering/Roots can be cut back as far as you want really, so long as you remove the same amount of foliage. The roots system has to be big enough to sustain what leaves are left over. If you're simply trying to preserve the plants in a dormant phase, then you can cut them WAY back. If you're trying to continue their growing season indoors and have a better amount of light to work with then only cut them back so far. Its up to your container size and workspace growing conditions. If you have been growing in containers and you just want to bring them in, then that's fine too. No need to prune back at all then. Just make sure you have enough light to sustain a fully grown plant! If I decide to prune back a plant due to light conditions, then I generally like to prune the roots and repot with nice, fresh soil too. I just see better results that way.
Hi Cayennemist,
I have read Guru's Guide, but last year all I wanted to do is to extend my growing season. There were so many pods on the plants, I could not just leave to freeze and rot.
Eventually they started to ripe indoors, and I was able to pick and dry them. By surprise even if it has lost all of the leaves, no fruit was dropped.
Besides this, I managed to overwinter 3 of them, with cutting them back (both roots and foliage), just like Guru describes. You should try it, too.
Balázs
I have read Guru's Guide, but last year all I wanted to do is to extend my growing season. There were so many pods on the plants, I could not just leave to freeze and rot.
Eventually they started to ripe indoors, and I was able to pick and dry them. By surprise even if it has lost all of the leaves, no fruit was dropped.
Besides this, I managed to overwinter 3 of them, with cutting them back (both roots and foliage), just like Guru describes. You should try it, too.
Balázs
Hi Cayennemist,
I have read Guru's Guide, but last year all I wanted to do is to extend my growing season. There were so many pods on the plants, I could not just leave to freeze and rot.
Eventually they started to ripe indoors, and I was able to pick and dry them. By surprise even if it has lost all of the leaves, no fruit was dropped.
Besides this, I managed to overwinter 3 of them, with cutting them back (both roots and foliage), just like Guru describes. You should try it, too.
Balázs
I think im going to in Octoberish. Down here in San Diego it may stay warm enough year round that I don't have to.
I think I will either way, for space issues, as I have a small patio/grass areas total of ~500sft. My dog uses half of if
to poop. So this winter Ill have a Greenhouse full of stubs.I think a mid-season extraction from the ground to container will set the plant back, but possible.
To ease the pain, keep the roots moist--limit 'dry air time.' I prefer to give roots a haircut to encourage new growth, and as mentioned trim the top growth to match the butchery of the rootball. Also I found the ProMIx BX to be an excellent transplant medium--it starts out very light and fluffy with good drainage--very important for new root growth to fire up right away.
To ease the pain, keep the roots moist--limit 'dry air time.' I prefer to give roots a haircut to encourage new growth, and as mentioned trim the top growth to match the butchery of the rootball. Also I found the ProMIx BX to be an excellent transplant medium--it starts out very light and fluffy with good drainage--very important for new root growth to fire up right away.