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pests INDOOR Insecticide Aphids, Gnats etc. NO BEES were HURT!!

http://www.npic.orst.edu/factsheets/imidacloprid.pdf
 
A systemic= usually bad news inthe long run...
 
http://www.nufarm.com/USTO/Malletr2FTO
 
As most pesticides,they usually end up being over used for stuff they don't kill,so the stuff in the proper doses that it would kill get low doses and end up immune to whatever.
 
Like stuff our quacks use/overuse that makes new strains of just about every disease known to man these days.
 
Spider Mites (Red) are easy - Broad mites suck worse,big time.
 
I grow indoors, and:

for aphids, I've had good results after 2 extremely thorough applications of pyrethrin

for thrips, I've had amazing results after 2 thorough applications of spinosad

but for me, neither chemical works on the other pest, unfortunately

Both are organic and have good evidence for being safe. I'm very cautious about this stuff because the plants stay in my living room (but I do the spraying on the stoop). I've had mites, but never indoors. But I wouldn't hesitate to use my azamax on them indoors, but I'm lucky I've never had to.
 
smokemaster said:
 
 
Spider Mites (Red) are easy - Broad mites suck worse,big time.
Click to expand...
 
 
QFT.
 
Canola oil emulsion is my go to killer of broad mites. They suck bad, but are pretty easy to kill once you know you have them.
 
What does QFT mean?
 
I used everything I could find for broad mites.
Some worked for a short time or seemed to.
 
I find Broad mites are REALLY impossible to get off of Manzanos.
 
I use Aphid wasps indoors and find aphid mummies outdoors latter.
I released the wasps years ago indoors.
Haven't had an aphid since then.
indoors or out,seen a couple mummies though.
But we don't have a winter here...
 
smokemaster said:
What does QFT mean?
 
I used everything I could find for broad mites.
Some worked for a short time or seemed to.
 
I find Broad mites are REALLY impossible to get off of Manzanos.
Click to expand...
 
QFT= quoted for truth.
 
Your comment about broad mites on monzanos is spot on. I get them several times a year and they are a pain. Doing more damage to monzanos then anything else.
 
This is the cure. It kills them every time. No issues. It is a contact killer so you have to soat the whole plant, especially the growth tips and including the botoms of the leaves. Keep the plant out of string light until the solution dries or it will burn the leaves.
 
 
This is a 1 quart sprayer.
20131202_195710.jpg
 
I tried neem oil and several other similar oil type things.
 
Soap mixes of different oils and or sulfur are supposed to work but didn't for me.
 
The only solution I think is to skip a season and hope the broad mites die.
 
smokemaster said:
I tried neem oil and several other similar oil type things.
 
Soap mixes of different oils and or sulfur are supposed to work but didn't for me.
 
The only solution I think is to skip a season and hope the broad mites die.
Click to expand...
Look for small critters or birds that can spread the mites. Do you have a lot of wildlife in your area? Skipping a season may not help. You may have to use something like DDT. DDT has not been used here in the USA in 20+ years. Sometimes you need to go to something that has not been used in 10 years. I do have Arsenic ant spray back from the 1930s but will never use it. It poisons everything including humans.

I'm not saying to use DDT, just find something that has not been used in a number of years. The bugs will have not tolerance to it.

There are some things I would spray on my flowers that I would never spray on the plants I eat.
 
imidicloprid when used correctly is phenomenally effective, and extremely safe for yourself and the bees( when used as a drench). when sprayed, and sprayed incorrectly, it appears that it can effect bee colonies.
afaik there is currently no hard links to bees being damaged from purely systemic imidicloprid, as the pollen and nectar collect very very minute amounts of the chemical compared to the plant pholem( sap)
 
HOWEVER... bees are sensitive to imidicloprid in the PARTS PER BILLION, so when sprayed, it will destroy bees if done at the wrong time and wrong concentration.
 
if you are seriously wondering if its safe for use, and NOT a strict organic guy... search the forums for my name + imidicloprid, ive gone over this numerous times.
 
 
you guys mentioned mites? for mits you want abamectin.
simply works, and works very well. same deal as above search the forums.
 
Turns out that imidicloprid does not have a 30 day half life.  It's much more persistent, poisoning the ground and any plants growing in it for years. IMO, there is no 'safe period' during which you can use this stuff as a ground treatment.  If plants growing in treated soil make flowers, any bees visiting those flowers will be affected. To make things worse, most neonicotinoids will slowly accumulate in the bees' bodies, much like mercury, etc. accumulates in vertebrates, eventually causing illness and neurological disruption of the bees' behavior.  If you're going to use this stuff, be careful!
 
Nicotine is a good insecticide. Yes the same nicotine in cigarettes. I think you need a lic to buy nicotine insecticide.
 
McGuiver said:
Nicotine is a good insecticide. Yes the same nicotine in cigarettes. I think you need a lic to buy nicotine insecticide.
Click to expand...
not suprised at all. seriously real nicotine is insanely toxic to humans, i can definatly see a man killing himself in minutes spraying real nicotine bases insecticides.
 
i read sad stories about little kids handling fresh tobacco leaves during harvest, dieing inadvertently from nicotine overdoses in... i think, Indonesia.

Brain Strain Pepper Head said:
Yep killed all the bees in my basement....and they were making honey too..
Click to expand...
 
honestly bees in the basement would be mad cool if they would cooperate and not ruin the place.... every morning some big shutters on the side of your home open up and let em in and out maby? ive heard colonies of bees produce huge btu's  per unit of volume too, so free heat.
 
what do they do in the winter? could you keep them going with fake nectar etc?
 
seriously tho. 8am every morning shutters open, and masses of bees roar out of the side of your house...  this would be incredible.
 
jedisushi06 said:
where do you find that stuff at?
Click to expand...
 
lul, nicotine is 10x more toxic than imidicloprid to humans and mamals,it will kill bees in droves given its non systemic and must be sprayed more frequently. it could easily kill youself your pets etc. 
'bee' careful sir.  lolol
Geonerd said:
Turns out that imidicloprid does not have a 30 day half life.  It's much more persistent, poisoning the ground and any plants growing in it for years. IMO, there is no 'safe period' during which you can use this stuff as a ground treatment.  If plants growing in treated soil make flowers, any bees visiting those flowers will be affected. To make things worse, most neonicotinoids will slowly accumulate in the bees' bodies, much like mercury, etc. accumulates in vertebrates, eventually causing illness and neurological disruption of the bees' behavior.  If you're going to use this stuff, be careful!
Click to expand...
 
it does have a half life around 30 days, where have you seen otherwise?
yes it will remain in the soil for years, but at levels not now known to be dangerous according to epa etc. its broken down very quickly via sunlight, and surface water films. like in a few hours.
 
do you know who just loves to contaminate the ground with toxic copper? you know the stuff that kills fish and aquatics? 
organic farmers. the stuff is sprayed at a rate ( i think) of 10s of millions of tons a year, as a crude, yet organic fungicide.
 
crude organic coper sulfate is wholly inorganic chemically speaking, and hence accumulates nicely in the environment, whereas synthetics dont, as they can decompose via a variety of mechanisms. 
copper sulfate is organic tho, so the contamination is acceptable?
 
it does not accumulate like mercury. you are misunderstanding a key thing about bioaccumulation. it is known to readily metabolize via super simple hydrolysis, and persists very poorly in the environment UNLIKE METHYL MERCURY which you misunderstand.
 
bees  are thought to be very smart as far as insects are concerned anyway, last i heard, the concern was that sub lethal doses basically damage their brains, making them unable to find their way back to the hives.
 
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