Is there a Fert for the end of the season?

[Noah Yates]

Yes, I am growing in-ground.

 

[Proud Marine Dad]

Yes, I am growing in-ground.

Cool. Throw tons of compost and EWC in the area you plant in and you will see good things.

 

[Jabski]

Calcium and magnesium should be a constant thing when fertilizing. Even if the plants are not showing signs of deficiency, I have found in my hydroponic production that with the same level of fertilizer, and a greater amount of calcium and magnesium, that my peppers grow faster, and a larger number of them turn out hotter/more fragrant than with less. Bone meal is a great way to supplement. I usually use general organics calmag though - as I prefer liquid solutions because they are easier to implement without disturbing the plants. Not to mention the results are about as immediate as you can get.

Thank you for that info.

As slade said, use calcium and magnesium now as a preventative - don't wait until BER pops up and ruins good pods.

I know next year will be so very productive I'll be crushed in peppers due to all you great hot pepper fans!

Yellowimg leaves are a normal part of a plant ending its life cycle. That was my point. If you want to try and slow it down give them a kelp/alfalfa tea soil drench every 2-3 weeks.

Thank you for that tip. I'll be get them for next year.

Whatever you found helpful throughout the pod growing season is what you should continue using.  Perhaps you would have benefited from Cal/Mag, or perhaps you had enough of those nutrients, but end of season isn't a time when more is needed than any other time in the grow.

Ok so it's like a person. Feed that person properly their whole life. Don't try to fatten them up near their golden years. Great point, thanks

for BER use calcium nitrate.regarding magnesium sulfate, technical grade, meaning USP store bought:1gram / 1 gallon yields approx: 26, 24 mg/l magnesium and sulphate respectively.regarding calcium nitrate, "fertilizer grade" meaning hydrated, and not 100% purity:1 gram / 1 gallon yields approx: 30 and 43 mg/l nitrate and calcium respectively.i would shoot for atleast 100mg/l nitrate in a generic soil grow. but you must take into consideration any organic material already present, as this will yield ammoniacal nitrogen.i agree with the above, with the only exception being the leaves buried under a thick impenetrable canopy...these most often yellow and die on an otherwise very healthy plant in my experiance.i wonder how many folks start sweating after the aforementioned happens?

I love all the green thumbs on here. I will never run out of hot pepper stuff. Thank you for that chemistry info.

 

[Helvete]

Don't forget the manganese.  No, I'm not mistyping magnesium.

 

[queequeg152]

lul. and don't forget the molybdenum

 

[John1234]

Throw in an excess of rock phosphate and get your fill of polonium 210....

 

[Geonerd]

It's my understanding that plants need a bit more potassium as they start to set fruit.  (They put a lot of K into the pods.)
 

Above graph from this useful read: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60092457/Peppers/Pepper_Fert.pdf
 
The dreaded MG Tomato food will supply plenty.  FWIW, I've had good success at about 1/3 teaspoon per gallon, applied with every watering.  I do have VERY porous soil and am growing in fabric bags, so my fert needs may be different.  At any rate, a weak mix of Magic Blue Crystals won't hurt a thing.  (Although it may cause PMD mild indigestion. )

Throw in an excess of rock phosphate and get your fill of polonium 210....

 
I've got some genuine Trinitite laying around here somewhere.....