Issues on first grow of peppers-input appreciated!

[YAMracer754]

This was a very informative thread that unfortunately (and fortunately if ya catch my drift) answered my questions on what is going on with some of my seedlings (some of them not all in the tray)-I don't wanna hijack your thread but I'll post a pic to confirm.

My question is BLS contagious to my other seedlings nearby; and also would treating my seeds with h202 first have prevented it? Can it come from soil? It seems to be relegated to my reapers and the jolokia seeds I got from seedsnow-and the reapers I harvested and dried the seeds from a couple older but "fresh" peppers. I am also dealing with heavy fungus on the cells I did first before reading about using Boiling water to sterilize the soil and kill fungus gnat larvae, as I am dealing with that problem as well! Eating my roots I know it!

The Boiling water cells to a lesser degree but still present..They're getting an h202 soak tonight I've had a fan blowing on the soil for 36h so that it can be more effective and aerate the medium. Kind of wishing I had a better draining medium instead of using fox farms ocean forest mixed with promix bx, as they didn't have hp in Stock, should have ordered it instead but I feel the FFOF is giving so much food for the fungus to thrive I thinkugh! Guess trial and error will lead to more experience for future! Maybe just use the straight promix until they get bigger and out of the 72 cells-->3" nursery pots? Perhaps use perlite or sand on top to keep fungus at bay as well as gnats? Would that work? Lots of questions I know! Thanks guys!

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[beerbreath81]

I don't think your plants look that bad to be honest. I think your only problem (if that is in fact your problem) is with the gnats, your hydrogen peroxide solution at a 4-1 ratio should help control the larvae. I could be off but to me I think you may just be overwatering causing a little algae growth / water deposits on the top of your soil. 

 

[U)<now]

I don't think your plants look that bad to be honest. I think your only problem (if that is in fact your problem) is with the gnats, your hydrogen peroxide solution at a 4-1 ratio should help control the larvae. I could be off but to me I think you may just be overwatering causing a little algae growth / water deposits on the top of your soil. 

I agree, the plants look ok/good still at this point. I would let them dry out for a bit, more than just the top of the soild being dry. Also, bottom watering normally helps keep the gnats away because the top of the soil generally stays dry.

 

[YAMracer754]

I agree, the plants look ok/good still at this point. I would let them dry out for a bit, more than just the top of the soild being dry. Also, bottom watering normally helps keep the gnats away because the top of the soil generally stays dry.

Yeah agreed to both of you, unfortunately I had to ditch one of the 6 cell trays today because they were super infested and the stems on 3.of the jalapeños were muched on the stem :-/
I have corrected my watering about 2 weeks or so again and stopped top watering and using bottom method, as well as letting soil dry as much as possible between waterings, I'm just really less than satisfied the level of moisture the soil seems to hold even when I let it get "dry dry" - my guess is that BX (general use) promix has a lot more vermiculite (says on the ingredients) than the promix HP (High porosity) and I've worked with fine vermiculite before when cultivating mushrooms and it holds a lot of moisture for sure. Ugh. Just worried, I've spent so much time already and don't wanna lose em to these bugs/larvae!!

I freaked out yesterday cuz I was staring at the soil tryna figure out how in the world I can get rid of that top fungus layer so stuff can breathe and all the sudden Lil slimy worm (larvae) started moving, otherwise I wouldn't have noticed if I wasn't staring so hard. Was like a startle reaction.. I'm also really concerned with how I got BLS on so many seedlings vs when I started-my guess is the gnats or larvae hopped from cell to cell and cross contaminated perhaps??

So many questions and so much more to learn but I know this now-prevention and being proactive BEFORE this happens to at least prevent it from happening in the first place is the way to go because now I'm getting some really cool new seeds from fellow forum members and I'm not gonna be able to handle it if I end up not nipping the problem in the bud for sure that they'll end up getting infested and spread more BLS around. I ordered azamax last night, and bti bits to blend in the next soil I make for the new plants and for the transplants that are ready here.. Won't be here until tomorrow hopefully but should I go ahead and wack em with the h202 or should I wait, cross my fingers, and wait til the azamax is in and treat them with that?

Edit:wish I had a better camera but here is some pics-I will merge em when I start my GLOG with the new light setup

Edit 2: azamax not coming until Monday so should I do the peroxide treatment or the dunk treatment to start? And should I bottom water and top drench it or just one or the other? It's right on the edge of super dry hence the droopy leaves. Had a fan on the soil and plants 36hr straight instead of only when lights are on

 

[U)<now]

Yeah agreed to both of you, unfortunately I had to ditch one of the 6 cell trays today because they were super infested and the stems on 3.of the jalapeños were muched on the stem :-/
I have corrected my watering about 2 weeks or so again and stopped top watering and using bottom method, as well as letting soil dry as much as possible between waterings, I'm just really less than satisfied the level of moisture the soil seems to hold even when I let it get "dry dry" - my guess is that BX (general use) promix has a lot more vermiculite (says on the ingredients) than the promix HP (High porosity) and I've worked with fine vermiculite before when cultivating mushrooms and it holds a lot of moisture for sure. Ugh. Just worried, I've spent so much time already and don't wanna lose em to these bugs/larvae!!

I freaked out yesterday cuz I was staring at the soil tryna figure out how in the world I can get rid of that top fungus layer so stuff can breathe and all the sudden Lil slimy worm (larvae) started moving, otherwise I wouldn't have noticed if I wasn't staring so hard. Was like a startle reaction.. I'm also really concerned with how I got BLS on so many seedlings vs when I started-my guess is the gnats or larvae hopped from cell to cell and cross contaminated perhaps??

So many questions and so much more to learn but I know this now-prevention and being proactive BEFORE this happens to at least prevent it from happening in the first place is the way to go because now I'm getting some really cool new seeds from fellow forum members and I'm not gonna be able to handle it if I end up not nipping the problem in the bud for sure that they'll end up getting infested and spread more BLS around. I ordered azamax last night, and bti bits to blend in the next soil I make for the new plants and for the transplants that are ready here.. Won't be here until tomorrow hopefully but should I go ahead and wack em with the h202 or should I wait, cross my fingers, and wait til the azamax is in and treat them with that?

Edit:wish I had a better camera but here is some pics-I will merge em when I start my GLOG with the new light setup

I've been in your shoes before, take a deep breath, and step back and evaluate. You've not gone past the point of no return... yet. Don't overcomplicate it, keep it simple.

As I said, let them dry out. That will naturally stop the algae and gnats all by itself, dry soil = no food source/not a pleasant environment for them to be in. It will take a few weeks of keeping them drier, but I promise you it will work.

Also/another option (that I have used personally with success), those plants are very very ready to pot up into Solo cups or #1 pots. Pot them up into some fresh drier mix, and don't water the new mix at all! When you set them into the new pot/mix, set them deep enough that you can cover up the top of the existing mix with about a quarter inch or so of the new dry mix. By doing this, you are taking the light away from the algae which will start to kill it, and also the new dry mix will suck the moisture out of the existing mix also killing the nasties and algae and speed up the drying process.

After you pot them up as described above, do not water them for at least 7 days, or only water each plant once you notice the leaves start to become less shiney and or wilt a bit, can't let seedlings completely wilt though as they sometimes don't recover.

When you do finally water them they won't have many roots in that new mix yet, so no need to wet the entire pot, just give them each about 1oz if in solo cups or 2oz if in #1 pots of water via bottom watering and do not water again until you see signs of wilting. Use a shot glass or something to actually measure until you get it down pat. After a while, you can also go by the weight of the pot once you get the feel for it.

Edit: also, I don't think you have BLS or any other problems other than just simply watering way to much. Do not spray them with anything, just try out the process I mentioned above and I would bet money all your problems will disappear by the end of this month.

Best of luck to you this season!

~Troy

 

[YAMracer754]

Ok excellent and very thorough explanation and info thanks! I have the jalapeños (the big plants) totally dry at the moment and they're showing that leaf droop like they need a drink-and I bought the stuff in the photos yesterday because I know I was dragging and let em get too big in the cells and bought 3 trays-one that holds 18 3.5" nursery pots and one that holds 10 of the deep 4" square nursery pots. I'm ready to do the switcheroo just still very nervous that them larvae are still munching on my roots and plants but not as bad on the big plants because they are very quickly and effectively drinking the water.

I just want to make sure I'm not innoculating instead of halting the cycle of them larvae, but I know one big boon that will help is if I can keep the new mix from getting fungi growing by using my little clip fan they won't have anything to eat! I'm just concerned that the ocean forest I have is maybe what the fungus has as such a food source? And I'm pretty sure that's where the eggs/larvae came from because they popped up right after I planted them! Like a few nothing crazy but all it takes is one or two females-you catch my drift.. I blended it 50/50 with promix bx but still grew the fungus amongus! So I have those two products, and the local garden supply has BM6 berger which is a high porosity mix. I also bought some Epsoma tomato tone should I blend any of that in the new transplant mix? Lots of?? 's I know.. Thanks so much

Regards,
-Tristan

 

[YAMracer754]

I've been in your shoes before, take a deep breath, and step back and evaluate. You've not gone past the point of no return... yet. Don't overcomplicate it, keep it simple.

As I said, let them dry out. That will naturally stop the algae and gnats all by itself, dry soil = no food source/not a pleasant environment for them to be in. It will take a few weeks of keeping them drier, but I promise you it will work.

Also/another option (that I have used personally with success), those plants are very very ready to pot up into Solo cups or #1 pots. Pot them up into some fresh drier mix, and don't water the new mix at all! When you set them into the new pot/mix, set them deep enough that you can cover up the top of the existing mix with about a quarter inch or so of the new dry mix. By doing this, you are taking the light away from the algae which will start to kill it, and also the new dry mix will suck the moisture out of the existing mix also killing the nasties and algae and speed up the drying process.

After you pot them up as described above, do not water them for at least 7 days, or only water each plant once you notice the leaves start to become less shiney and or wilt a bit, can't let seedlings completely wilt though as they sometimes don't recover.

When you do finally water them they won't have many roots in that new mix yet, so no need to wet the entire pot, just give them each about 1oz if in solo cups or 2oz if in #1 pots of water via bottom watering and do not water again until you see signs of wilting. Use a shot glass or something to actually measure until you get it down pat. After a while, you can also go by the weight of the pot once you get the feel for it.

Edit: also, I don't think you have BLS or any other problems other than just simply watering way to much. Do not spray them with anything, just try out the process I mentioned above and I would bet money all your problems will disappear by the end of this month.

Best of luck to you this season!

~Troy

Ok excellent and very thorough explanation and info thanks! I have the jalapeños (the big plants) totally dry at the moment and they're showing that leaf droop like they need a drink-and I bought the stuff in the photos yesterday because I know I was dragging and let em get too big in the cells and bought 3 trays-one that holds 18 3.5" nursery pots and one that holds 10 of the deep 4" square nursery pots. I'm ready to do the switcheroo just still very nervous that them larvae are still munching on my roots and plants but not as bad on the big plants because they are very quickly and effectively drinking the water.

I just want to make sure I'm not innoculating instead of halting the cycle of them larvae, but I know one big boon that will help is if I can keep the new mix from getting fungi growing by using my little clip fan they won't have anything to eat! I'm just concerned that the ocean forest I have is maybe what the fungus has as such a food source? And I'm pretty sure that's where the eggs/larvae came from because they popped up right after I planted them! Like a few nothing crazy but all it takes is one or two females-you catch my drift.. I blended it 50/50 with promix bx but still grew the fungus amongus! So I have those two products, and the local garden supply has BM6 berger which is a high porosity mix. I also bought some Epsoma tomato tone should I blend any of that in the new transplant mix? Epsom salt? Lots of question's I know.. But I'm all ears! Thanks so much

I was also planning on burying the stem up to .25" from the cotyledons when I move them into their containers I got to encourage more root growth, I have done it with other plants to success-I think it would help, no?
Regards,
-Tristan

 

[YAMracer754]

Just looked at the bags of FFOF I brought in yesterday to thaw and warm up and there were fliers on the outside of the bag :-/ wonder what the best way is to sterilize a bag

Regards,
-Tristan

 

[YAMracer754]

Also big time bonus if ya can tell me what these are.. Not good I presume grrrrr

Regards,
-Tristan

 

[moruga welder]

get ya a bigggg plastic bowl microwave for 90 sec. 

Just looked at the bags of FFOF I brought in yesterday to thaw and warm up and there were fliers on the outside of the bag :-/ wonder what the best way is to sterilize a bag

Regards,
-Tristan

 

 

[BlackFatalii]

Also big time bonus if ya can tell me what these are.. 
 

 
 
Not sure what you mean. If you are referring to the white bumps on the stem just above the soil line, that is nothing to worry about. When you transplant the seedling, just bury the stem deep so that those are in the soil, and the plant will send out more roots from those nodes. 

 

[U)<now]

 
 
Not sure what you mean. If you are referring to the white bumps on the stem just above the soil line, that is nothing to worry about. When you transplant the seedling, just bury the stem deep so that those are in the soil, and the plant will send out more roots from those nodes. 

Yep, seedlings will send out roots from the stems when they are still soft. In this case, it could be because they were kept so moist so it's starting to send out air roots. In either case, good to go.

If you're talking about the little green thing, it appears to be a weed or something, just rip it out.

 

[U)<now]

Ok excellent and very thorough explanation and info thanks! I have the jalapeños (the big plants) totally dry at the moment and they're showing that leaf droop like they need a drink-and I bought the stuff in the photos yesterday because I know I was dragging and let em get too big in the cells and bought 3 trays-one that holds 18 3.5" nursery pots and one that holds 10 of the deep 4" square nursery pots. I'm ready to do the switcheroo just still very nervous that them larvae are still munching on my roots and plants but not as bad on the big plants because they are very quickly and effectively drinking the water.

I just want to make sure I'm not innoculating instead of halting the cycle of them larvae, but I know one big boon that will help is if I can keep the new mix from getting fungi growing by using my little clip fan they won't have anything to eat! I'm just concerned that the ocean forest I have is maybe what the fungus has as such a food source? And I'm pretty sure that's where the eggs/larvae came from because they popped up right after I planted them! Like a few nothing crazy but all it takes is one or two females-you catch my drift.. I blended it 50/50 with promix bx but still grew the fungus amongus! So I have those two products, and the local garden supply has BM6 berger which is a high porosity mix. I also bought some Epsoma tomato tone should I blend any of that in the new transplant mix? Epsom salt? Lots of question's I know.. But I'm all ears! Thanks so much

I was also planning on burying the stem up to .25" from the cotyledons when I move them into their containers I got to encourage more root growth, I have done it with other plants to success-I think it would help, no?
Regards,
-Tristan

How long do you have until you put them outside for the season? 3.5in and 4in pots or even solo cups won't get them by more than maybe 6 to 8 weeks before they start to get rootbound again.

You can order #1 pots (1 gallon nursery pots, actually only .7 gallons and 6in wide by 6in tall) for about 39 cents each shipped off eBay, or normally find them locally for about 47 cents or so each.

 

[YAMracer754]

 
 
Not sure what you mean. If you are referring to the white bumps on the stem just above the soil line, that is nothing to worry about. When you transplant the seedling, just bury the stem deep so that those are in the soil, and the plant will send out more roots from those nodes. 

Oh awesome awesome awesome! Thought those bumps were a pest or something but I was able to get them dry enough and popped that top mycelium layer off all the cells so things are lookin better just got to get transplanting today!

Regards,
-Tristan

 

[YAMracer754]

How long do you have until you put them outside for the season? 3.5in and 4in pots or even solo cups won't get them by more than maybe 6 to 8 weeks before they start to get rootbound again.

You can order #1 pots (1 gallon nursery pots, actually only .7 gallons and 6in wide by 6in tall) for about 39 cents each shipped off eBay, or normally find them locally for about 47 cents or so each.

Probably 8 weeks before I can let them live out there 24/7 and start hardening off in 6 weeks or so I'm thinking/hoping. Although with all this climate change weird things can happen! Those #1 pots would be great because they're deep as well and I know peppers and tomatoes really like a deep root system. Hmm... I wonder if I have a couple days left where I could order them if they don't have em at the local garden supply store-although I would presume they do-they have everything!

Regards,
-Tristan

 

[YAMracer754]

Yeaaaa buddy!

Regards,
-Tristan

 

[Chilidude]

Now i can see why you asked advise, how to pot your chilis. I forget to mention that do not oversoak the coco coir or whatever you have there in the bucket. First soak the coco coir and after that put the perlite in to lower the moisture content of the final growing medium to a suitable level.
 
But now you dont need to water the chilis for many weeks, so let the growing medium go to a semi dry state before re-watering. Best way to measure when to water the plants again is to feel the weight of the pot right now and if the pot becomes way lighter, it is usually time to water again.

 

[YAMracer754]

Now i can see why you asked advise, how to pot your chilis. I forget to mention that do not oversoak the coco coir or whatever you have there in the bucket. First soak the coco coir and after that put the perlite in to lower the moisture content of the final growing medium to a suitable level.
 
But now you dont need to water the chilis for many weeks, so let the growing medium go to a semi dry state before re-watering. Best way to measure when to water the plants again is to feel the weight of the pot right now and if the pot becomes way lighter, it is usually time to water again.

Right on, yeah that bucket is w/o coir but that was only to take them from 72 cell--4" nursery pots and there is no coir in the mix just the FFOF combined with 1 part perlite and a Lil bone meal and Epsom salt for good measure, and luckily following the advise from another member I did not add any moisture to it other than the base level already present. I was planning on doing the coir/airpot gig on the next uppot or final container unless it is not advisable to change mediums like that. Thanks!

Regards,
-Tristan

 

[Chilidude]

Right on, yeah that bucket is w/o coir but that was only to take them from 72 cell--4" nursery pots and there is no coir in the mix just the FFOF combined with 1 part perlite and a Lil bone meal and Epsom salt for good measure, and luckily following the advise from another member I did not add any moisture to it other than the base level already present. I was planning on doing the coir/airpot gig on the next uppot unless it is not advisable to change mediums like that. Thanks!

Regards,
-Tristan

 
It doest matter much if you put that small pot inside a larger container with the coco coir, but then it is advisable to start using hydroponic fertilizers to water the chilis. Of course you can also mix like half peat kind of stuff/about half coco+some perlite and it acts like a soil, that you can use regular fertilizers with it.

 

[YAMracer754]

 
It doest matter if you put that small pot inside a larger container with the coco coir, but then it is advisable to start using hydroponic fertilizers to water the chilis.

Ok excellent, that's what I was thinking as I know the ph and nutrient requirements for such a breathable medium is quite different, almost like a poor man's Hydro-soilless type mix. Can they take the great outdoors still as that is a requirement for my scenario when it comes time to use that sun!

Regards,
-Tristan