• Do you need help identifying a 🌶?
    Is your plant suffering from an unknown issue? 🤧
    Then ask in Identification and Diagnosis.

MAKING COMPOST BIN (WHATS YOURS)

Got 4 wooden pallets, nailing 3 pallets up, last pallet cutting in half and adding hinges on one end and adding latches on the other end(making 2 doors).
Will transfer compost pile into bin.
Anybody got any homemade bins?
 
Same as pshngo. I roll it around the yard every other week. I also have a few 5 gal pails I keep in the greenhouse in the winter for added heat. Decomposition = heat.
 
oh, well if you are into that kinda compost ^^ i also have a 25 gallon rubbermaid container filled with red wrigglers... the worm compost is pretty cool in my opinion. i use that setup more than the pile in the back.... just depends on how fast you want it to take, and how much effort you want to add.
 
Mine is just 3 piles in the backyard. I think I'm going to get 7 pallets and make 3 side by side open front bins.
 
I've got a 45 gallon plastic garbage chigadera on wheels with 1/2 holes drilled into for a compost bin.

The materials pile is just that, a pile, in a barren corner of the yard.
 
I have a Smith & Hawking like this:

bin.jpg


It's a great bin and has four tiers.

I like the idea of extra cans for added heat.
No concerns about bad gasses forming by the decomposition?

Heat from an outside source does not cause the material to breakdown.
Heat is generated when green materials are being broken down by bacteria and the greens release ammonia.
With enough greens in the center and turning it every two days the pile will reach up to 150 degrees F in the center.
Unless you are making cold compost which takes a year and heat is not necessary. ;)
 
If you say so... though it is hard to imagine how to maximize airflow to keep ALL the vermicompost going aerobic and not anaerobic.

It is better to have a shallower-wider worm bin as that maximizes the surface area and allows for better gas exchange.

Maybe flies are a problem because there is more food than the worms can consume in a timely manner or the food isn`t buried in the bedding properly.

Escape? If the worms are escaping and not 1 or 2 falling from oversized or misplaced holes there are more problems in the bin ie... pH, Pests ect...
 
If you say so... though it is hard to imagine how to maximize airflow to keep ALL the vermicompost going aerobic and not anaerobic.

It is better to have a shallower-wider worm bin as that maximizes the surface area and allows for better gas exchange.

Maybe flies are a problem because there is more food than the worms can consume in a timely manner or the food isn`t buried in the bedding properly.

Escape? If the worms are escaping and not 1 or 2 falling from oversized or misplaced holes there are more problems in the bin ie... pH, Pests ect...

I don't say so the woman who wrote the book, "The Best Place for Garbage" (Wiese, Sandra) said to make it that way and I did and it's working good.
Since when does the vermicompost have to stay aerobic anyhow? I have never heard any expert say that. It's virtually impossible to keep it aerobic in there with all the worms, food and newspaper. I just fluff it up every so many days, mist the newspaper with a spray bottle and they seem happy.
If it was anaerobic the worms would be trying to escape but not a single one is on the walls of the bin anywhere so all is well in wormtown. ;)
 
Back
Top