Northern Hydraulics and Harbor Freight both sell smallish pumps. You will have 62 plants in your main garden. If you watered them at 1/2 gallon per hour, you would need a capability of 31 GPH. If you use two emitters at some of the larger/thirstier plants, you'll need more. Now, you MUST build some fat into the system. You will never be satisfied with a pump that barely meets that requirement. And remember you still need some pressure at the END of each run! That's not taking into consideration your corn patch. It's not difficult to accomplish this, it just may cost a little more. When you look at the pump specs, remember they will be talking in Gallons Per MINUTE (GPM) Micro irrigation stuff will give the specs in Gallons Per Hour (GPH). You will not have any trouble finding a pump to give you the combination of volume/pressure you need. A cheap timer to start and stop the pump would be nice.
Even though the garden is above the tanks, depending on where the actual "top" of the water level is, you may get a siphon going. A check valve or vacuum-breaker would stop this.
http://www.irrigationdirect.com/3-4-in-line-spring-check-valve-pvc
I would recommend 3/4-inch poly mainline tubing. REMEMBER most irrigation companies sell their 3/4" tubing in a different size from their competitor. So buy your tubing and fittings from the same source! Everybody's 1/4" tubing and 1/4" fittings are the same.
http://www.dripworks.com/product/Q_34
I used compression fittings to connect the pieces of poly because they were quick to put together and require no clamps.
http://www.dripworks.com/category/three-quarter-inch-compression-fittings
To get the water to each plant you may use small sprayers or drip emitters. They both use 1/4-inch spaghetti tubing that pokes into the larger mainline tubing with a transfer barb.
http://www.irrigationdirect.com/irrigation-products-and-supplies/drip-irrigation/drip-irrigation-tubing/quarter-inch-poly-tubing/dd-dh250-100
http://www.irrigationdirect.com/irrigation-products-and-supplies/drip-irrigation/barbed-fittings
You probably won't be able to use sprayers unless you divide your garden into zones using valves to separate one zone from another. My preference for sprayers, when I did use them, was the umbrella patterned type. The ones that throw fingers of water just don't give you the water exactly where you want it! And, with the umbrella type you can adjust the size of the umbrella to fit your needs. Most sprayers also use A LOT MORE water (GPH) than emitters do. The "misting" types were a disaster for me. The water gets blown away by wind or, in the heat of summer, it would evaporate before hitting the ground. The misters are a good way of cooling a patio or greenhouse though!
http://www.irrigationdirect.com/irrigation-products-and-supplies/drip-irrigation/micro-jets-and-sprayers/adjustable-sprayers/dd-sm360b
Emitters are available in several application rates. You can get 1/2 GPH (gallons per hour) up to 3-4 GPH.
http://www.irrigationdirect.com/irrigation-products-and-supplies/drip-irrigation/drip-emitters
http://www.irrigationdirect.com/irrigation-products-and-supplies/drip-irrigation/drip-irrigation-tubing/quarter-inch-poly-tubing
I always had problems with the softer 1/4-inch
vinyl tubing blowing off the fittings so, I used the
poly tubing. I'm sure it can get a little stiff in colder climates but it stays put.
The sprayers can water several plants simultaneously while you would have to put one or two emitters at the root zone of each plant. I still preferred emitters because they water at the target (root zone) and don't water weeds. Also, down here in SE Louisiana we get every wilt, fungus, virus and bacteria known to plant-kind. So, I try not wetting the leaves too much. Also, with emitters you won't lose water from being wind-blown.
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