New growth curled up

mrgrowguy said:
 
 
If it helps or not, I use FFOF too, but not primarily. I actually have been recycling my soil for a few years now. Each year I dump half into  the bushes/grass/etc and refill with pure FFOF. So, really, my soil is only about 1/2 FFOF and 1/2 older organic material. I do add a little bit of bloodmeal, oystershell, azomite dust, and humic acid. Oh, I also add 1 bag of medium-fine, pre-rinsed coco. But all-in-all, my total soil is at most 2/3 as hot as yours sounds like. And my plants LOVE it.
 
Just sharing my experience.
 
PS: I used to run 100% FFOF and had problems with not only over fertilizing, but lots more salt build up too. (AND FUNGUS GNATS!! - partially due to my over-watering back then. And I think FF fixed their mix to not have so many eggs - supposed to be sterile, but...)
 
PPS: in case you're curious, I just planted my bigjim into this mix a week or two ago and will be doing regular updates on this competition thread in case you want to see first hand how this soil mix works for me - http://thehotpepper.com/topic/58672-land-of-the-giants-2016-biggest-jim-competition/?p=1296943
The link is the beginning. I will be updating the whole season.
 
 
That's good to know. About half of my plants I started in some left over mix of various MG flavors, then potted up into my FFOF mix. The ones that are doing the worst were started in the MG mix, while the plants that have been in FFOF all along are very happy. Who the hell knows what was in the MG, but I'm almost certain that's the culprit. Never again with MG.
 
Another thing, my indoor lighting is a bit weak compared to what a lot of people run, just enough to get them started until they go outside. I'm not sure what role sunlight plays in the nutrient usage puzzle, but maybe there's an imbalance there for me as well.
 
But like I said, I've seen this before, and it's always cleared up once they go outside.
 
philosophiser said:
 
 
That's good to know. About half of my plants I started in some left over mix of various MG flavors, then potted up into my FFOF mix. The ones that are doing the worst were started in the MG mix, while the plants that have been in FFOF all along are very happy. Who the hell knows what was in the MG, but I'm almost certain that's the culprit. Never again with MG.
 
Another thing, my indoor lighting is a bit weak compared to what a lot of people run, just enough to get them started until they go outside. I'm not sure what role sunlight plays in the nutrient usage puzzle, but maybe there's an imbalance there for me as well.
 
But like I said, I've seen this before, and it's always cleared up once they go outside.
 
Definitely, soon as I put mine out, they really popped. Also, I have had that same issue with using old soil too. I had a few plants where they would either lock up (even though there wasn't a bunch of nutes or salts) or something where the leaves showed definite signs of stress, and I was trying to find out why. I can't say for sure, but once I started to "ferment" my old soil by letting it sit for 5 or so months before using it again, I haven't had this problem. Maybe when they go outside the sun's intensity is enough to push them through it. Another thing I was thinking about the plants that weren't doing well with the recycled soil was that the old roots from the previous plants were decaying and causing ph fluctuations as well as bacteria/mold. I have seen this happen, the ph fluctuate greatly, when I was big into hydro... I've had plants' roots rot (from accidental mishaps with the air line) and the roots decaying caused incredible fluctuations in the ph. And while some/certain bacteria and mold is actually beneficial to plants, maybe I just had too much. 'Cause I'm still using the same soil, but it's a bit more aged now. Letting the soil sit for a few months seems to have fixed the problem. I'm still working it out, but I haven't had any problems for a year now.
 
What I do is I empty old soil from pots into a large bucket (until half way full). Then every time I cut a plant down, I use scissors and cut up the leaves and stems into this large bucket. Typically, I add about 3 or 4 full sized plants worth each month. I do so for quite a while, occasionally adding more soil till the bucket is almost full. Once full, I grab another large bucket and put the first one on the side to ferment for a few (5ish) months, while I work on the next large bucket of recycled soil and plant matter.
 
After I get the freshly fermented soil ready, I then buy a few bags of FFOF and the other stuff I mentioned and mix it up.
 
sirex said:
You won't see broad mites with the naked eye just to let you know. I never have and I've had them. Took a scope.
:liar:
 
u can see them, they r just so small they look lik dandruff only the move
 
and honestly from the first pic i thought it was broadmites u can even see specs on those leaves
 
TNKS said:
It works and I'll leave it there.
Tricks abstract as they may appear are where you find'em.
 
 
     I know epsom salt will help a plant with a Mg deficiency. But if you see the same effect after adding calmag, don't you think it would be Mg that was deficient and not Ca? 
     And if the plants perk up after applying epsom salt (MgSO4), why switch to calmag. Just keep applying epsom salt. 
     It doesn't seem much like a trick, just a misunderstanding.
 
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
 
 
     I know epsom salt will help a plant with a Mg deficiency. But if you see the same effect after adding calmag, don't you think it would be Mg that was deficient and not Ca? 
     And if the plants perk up after applying epsom salt (MgSO4), why switch to calmag. Just keep applying epsom salt. 
     It doesn't seem much like a trick, just a misunderstanding.
 
 
Not arguing one way or the other about what is better, but epson salt is definitely cheaper!  :)
 
N8thaniel said:
:liar:
 
u can see them, they r just so small they look lik dandruff only the move
 
and honestly from the first pic i thought it was broadmites u can even see specs on those leaves
In my experience broad mites need a scope to be seen. At half the size of spider mites they are a real bugger to find. Could you be talking about spider mites?

Plus, I've seen some big ass dandruff flakes!
 
PokPok said:
Thank you for all your responses guys, I appreciate it. I've checked the plants for bugs and I can't see any. I thought it might be an overfeeding issue too but it's only on 3 plants out of 20. I do check the EC and pH of the solution every time before I apply it. It's 0.9-1 EC / 5.8-5.9 pH. I calibrate my meters once a week.
 
So I started asking myself how is it possible to overfeed on an EC level already quite low and I've come to this conclusion. The plants are in 100% coco, a brand called Biobizz Coco Mix. It's supposed to be washed, buffered, all ready to go out of the bag but I've started thinking maybe they didn't do such a good job with this batch and it already has high EC which, when combined with my 1.0 EC feeding regime, is causing overfeeding issues. I don't know if that might have an affect on the run-off though, because like I said, it's not that high, 0.8 EC. Or my logic is all wrong, no idea. :)
 
Here's a close up of some of the leaves after I chopped them. No bugs are visible. Those white dots just seem to be hair that's part of the plant.
 
25661021564_6c686a7b6f_b.jpg

 
 
Broadmites. Under magnifying glass, you can see tiny little white dots moving out from the "fur" when u disturb it. I suggest u submerge your plant in neem solution for 10 min and wash it with water after that.
 
sirex said:
In my experience broad mites need a scope to be seen. At half the size of spider mites they are a real bugger to find. Could you be talking about spider mites?

Plus, I've seen some big ass dandruff flakes!

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I am familiar with broadmites, dispite what you read on the web you can see them as I described-white dust particles moving quickly
 
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
 
 
 
     Why would a positive response to epsom salt indicate Ca deficiency?
Follow this misguided chain of reasoning if you will - Magnesium is essential to calcium uptake.  People try to treat blossom end rot (a calcium deficiency) with epsom salt. So if 1+2 = 5, than we can deduce that epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) will solve your calcium deficiency. Except it wont cause it looks like fert burn or a ph issue.  If you see little holes develop than its most likely mites. And just to clarify, blossom end rot is a moisture issue that's preventing calcium uptake or at least keeping it from the ends of the fruit.
 
Those are good pics N8. I can't see them by my eye. But I see them in those pics.
I get them often. Think its a Florida thing.
 
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