I'm saying use pure peat to start the seeds and wet it once and keep the dome on it and it will stay wet, if it dries out completely it will be a bitch to soak it again. Then just take them after they are big enough and put them in a more suitable mix.queequeg152 said:pure peat is shitty for any seed mix. its hydrophobic and like you say, entirely too acidic.
i think hes referring to a peat based seedling mix like promix stuff. its a good choice but more expensive.
queequeg152 said:interesting. i wonder what the issue is.
i dont see how a single cfl could heat that dome such that its going to kill anything.
Ah Ha! This MG with Moisture Control...... I'm changing to something like Happy Frog.Rairdog said:I don't have a problem with MG....it's the MG with moisture control that I've heard many people have bad results.
How many seedlings can you have going in one of these units, Gotrox? It sounds interesting.... not because i'm lazy but because I work a lot out of town and convenience is a big plus for me. Thanks.Gotrox said:AeroGarden with the starter kit.
Plain water first fill, mix a gallon of fert and top up with that when low.
Stick seeds in pre-soaked sponge till just covered.
24 hr light till first true leaves and no domes.
Small fan on them after sprouting, till transplant.
On sale now, or used on Ebay for a pittance.
Damned near foolproof.
I use mine every season because I am lazy.
The cots are tiny, as soon as they straighten up they drop.....queequeg152 said:the ONLY time ive had a seedling look like that was when im tearing off the stuck seed coatings and i rip off the cots.
that seriously looks like a 'fertilizer' burn to me.
what do the cots do when they open up? are they scorching? or the cots even forming at all?
The stem uncurls, the cots are tiny an then they drop as soon as the stem straightens fully.queequeg152 said:the ONLY time ive had a seedling look like that was when im tearing off the stuck seed coatings and i rip off the cots.
that seriously looks like a 'fertilizer' burn to me.
what do the cots do when they open up? are they scorching? or the cots even forming at all?
Great advice. Pretty much what I do, except mine stay in Light Warrior in Solo Cups until potted up. Probably a little cheaper to use the Happy Frog soil in your solo cups, and you'll water a little less. Either way you will be much happier .Roguejim said:Let's keep it simple.
Ditch the MG/sand combo.
Go to Grange Co Op and buy Fox Farm Light Warrior seed starter.
Also, buy a bag of Fox Farm Happy Frog potting soil.
These are both very commonly used with great success.
When you first see signs of a sprout/hook, get it out of the dome, put it in a Solo cup with the Happy Frog, and get it under light.
Welcome, and check out the Pacific Northwest GLOG 2015.
i don't think it is , but the heat mat and him watering , with no fresh air around its causing them to rot . usually happens at the base but not in this case . got to get them out as soon as they hook and under lights .fan and water very lightly outer edge of cup .queequeg152 said:interesting. i wonder what the issue is.
i dont see how a single cfl could heat that dome such that its going to kill anything.
queequeg152 said:well this potting soil DOES have some CRF added to the mix, but not insane amounts.
i do suspect you are getting "fertilizer burn", or more likely, ammonium or urea toxicity from the controlled release prills in this fertilizer. young plants are more susceptible to ammonium/urea toxicity than mature plants, sometimes much more susceptible.
why are some doing ok and others are not? could be down to the heterogeneity of these controlled release fertilizers.
the fertilizer is in these little bb's... its possible that your now dead plants had more of these bb's than the surviving plants. why dont you pull out the cells containing dead plants and count the number of fertilizer prills.
then compare this with a cell containing a stil living plant. see whats going on... im genuinly curious on this one because folks almost ALWAYS mistak fert burn for something else. its rare to actually find a real fert burn case seing as how conservative folks are with chemical fertilizers.
id suggest that you put this mix aside for now, and look for a totally inert seedling mix. you want something without any fertilizers... something light and fluffy and free draining.
come back to this soil when you are potting these up.
CAPCOM said:^^^that's my 1st guess. MG and germination trays not good bed fellows.
IMO, peat is far superior to cocoa core. I would never use straight core for germination anyway, but then again I wont use core again for anything in any capacity. Peppers do good in an acidic media, mine are in a mixture when made into a slurry throws about 6.4pH with RO water.
n your case, I would worry more about high nitrogen than I would high acidity.
Roguejim said:Let's keep it simple.
Ditch the MG/sand combo.
Go to Grange Co Op and buy Fox Farm Light Warrior seed starter.
Also, buy a bag of Fox Farm Happy Frog potting soil.
These are both very commonly used with great success.
When you first see signs of a sprout/hook, get it out of the dome, put it in a Solo cup with the Happy Frog, and get it under light.
Welcome, and check out the Pacific Northwest GLOG 2015.
Phil said:
It's not the soil at all. People are giving you recommendations on what their preferred soil is, and there's nothing wrong with any of those recommendations. I've been sprouting and growing in MG for a while now with zero problems.
Some folks tend to prefer something that's more organic. Others don't mind the fertilizer mixed in the soil, like me. But the fact that you used MG has nothing to do with your plants shriveling and dying like that.
I'd be more willing to bet that you're cooking them in the dome. I've done it before. The thing that looks different about yours is that it's just the cots that are dying. When I cooked mine, the whole plant, stem and all laid down. Of course, I cooked mine in the sun, yours is just with a light. Could be just enough to damage the cots, but not the stem. Try sowing again and remove the dome after they sprout. I have 15 bucks that says the cots won't shrivel and die with the dome off.
Rairdog said:I don't have a problem with MG....it's the MG with moisture control that I've heard many people have bad results.
CAPCOM said:It looks like the seeds were planted too shallow in loose starting mix and came up helmet head. the hulls were left on too long before removal and the would be cotys rotted. It looks like nothing else I have seen either from too hot a grow mix, a dome on too long or even light too close.
moruga welder said:by looking at all the moisture in that dome , that to me is a possible reason as to whats going on . me i remove the dome as soon as i see the back of the hook , then right under the lights , and fan .
SL3 said:Great advice. Pretty much what I do, except mine stay in Light Warrior in Solo Cups until potted up. Probably a little cheaper to use the Happy Frog soil in your solo cups, and you'll water a little less. Either way you will be much happier .
i put the seeds 1/4 " just soil on top lightlyCharx said:
OK..... I have looked at all of your great posts. Wow.... this is such a great forum! Thank you.....!!
So here's what I have learned. 1) The dome has to come off. 2) I need to get a fan on a timer 3) I need to change the soil.... my Grange has the Happy Frog so I'm going with that 4) I'm planting the seeds a bit deeper and looser (5/8 inch?) 5) Overwatering is a no-no 6) I'm translating to Solo Cups after a couple sets of true leaves.
I've got more seeds so I will try to get them going again. The Carolina Reapers suffered the most from this little problem.... which is odd.
And now I'm going to check out the Pacific Northwest GLOG..... but I'm in Southern Oregon which is just out of the rain belt -- we only get 18 in/yr here and it's hotter -- so the Northern California GLOG (if there is one) might be better.
resili626 said:I start my seeds nowadays in a 50/50 perlite to vermiculite mix. I like my planting soilless and you can be quite sure that a perlite/vermiculite mix doesn't have much, if any pathogens in it. I give it a nice deep watering (they dry and aerate very well) with diluted fertlizer that are 25% of the recommended strength and put the seeds in an inch deep. Then I wait. I have a very good germination rate with this method.
Thismoruga welder said:by looking at all the moisture in that dome , that to me is a possible reason as to whats going on . me i remove the dome as soon as i see the back of the hook , then right under the lights , and fan .