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Newbie problem

Hello everyone
I am a new grower from Portugal. I have my plants growing on a windowsill where they get about 3-4 hours of sun daily. I recently saw that my naga Morich plant, my biggest one, started having some tiny black spots on one of the leaves, a few days later a few of the leaves had them and started dying and eventually fell off the plant, so I neep help finding out what is the problem. I have a feeling that this is a very easy problem to fix but I have 0 growing experience. Here are the photos:
http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/tyzator/media/Photo25-05-13190416_zps2968002e.jpg.html
http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/tyzator/media/Photo25-05-13190557_zps0ec23049.jpg.html
http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/tyzator/media/Photo25-05-13190536_zpsac6d4361.jpg.html
http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/tyzator/media/Photo25-05-13190646_zps6c48a828.jpg.html
 
I'm no guru but your soil looks very saturated. Let your soil dry out before you water again. The yellowing can definitely be a sign of over watering. Over watering can cause a whole slew of problems for you. I can't tell you how often to water just because every situation is different but a good rule of thumb is to stick your finger in the soil about an inch or 2, if wet, then don't water. If dry then add water. Your plant looks good other than that. It's going to need a bigger home eventually (bigger pot) and really 3-4 hours of sun isn't sufficient for maximum growth. Most peppers need around 8 hours of sunlight give or take. It will grow there but just not to it's potential.
 
Thank you for the help but I don't think over watering is the problem. The soil is wet because I had just watered it. I generally let all the soil dry before watering.
What could be the cause of the leaves dying? The yellowing only occurs after much of the leaf is dead.
I am just waiting for the plant to heal back up to repot it to the balcony where it can harden and it can get all the soil and sun it needs.
 
Too much water, excessive use of fertilizer, fluoride in the water, chlorine, airborn pollutants or even high humidity can all cause tip burn on a pepper plant
 
If those are the only possible causes, then it has to be too much water.All the other plants get the same treatment and they are doing fine.
I will let the soil really dry before I water them.
Thanks
 
I never fertilized the plant so that isn't the problem.
Can something else cause this burn?
I really want to start hardening it off but I think it's too fragile and the new leaves are already developing the black spots.
 
Tyzator said:
I never fertilized the plant so that isn't the problem.
Can something else cause this burn?
I really want to start hardening it off but I think it's too fragile and the new leaves are already developing the black spots.
What kind of soil are you using? You could be getting fertilizer from your soil.
 
How good is your potting mix?
I had huge problems with my first grow as my plants would be looking great, but then i potted them up and they would all start losing leaves / going yellow etc.
It turned out to be the potting mix i was using. I switched to a decent brand and problem solved!
 
Now that I think of it I had a really bad soil last year for some other plants. I think that I didn't use it all and it must have gotten mix up with the pots that have a good soil and that must have been the pot that I put this one in.
Thank you very much guys, you might have just saved my pepper season, I will repot it with good soil tomorrow. :)
 
Hello once again
First, my naga morich plant is doing great. After I put it in a new pot it did very little in two months, some leaves would grow and fall, but very slowly. About a month ago I decided to cut eveything but the first 2 inches of the main stem. The first picture is this plant, with buds on the ends of the branches.
 
Second, I have a bit of a problem with my caribbean red habanero plant. When I started hardening it off it got a bit of sun burn but new growth came out good. But now the new leaves have shriveled and are really thin and flimsy and it is almost not growing. The plant pumping out flowers like crazy but new leaves simply do not grow. I have tried giving it less sun, more sun but nothing worked.This plant is pictures in the 2nd and 3rd photos.
Please help me with this problem, or am I being over zealous?
Photo22-07-13171556_zpse2d01219.jpg

Photo22-07-13171611_zpsb1d4d404.jpg

Photo22-07-13171628_zps4ed280a9.jpg
 
Just taking a guess , It could a be cal-mag deficiency , leaves are looking wrinkled and bumpy from what I've read on here that's usually a sign of that . As far as far as the yellowing maybe to much water .
 
Redrum801 said:
Just taking a guess , It could a be cal-mag deficiency , leaves are looking wrinkled and bumpy from what I've read on here that's usually a sign of that . As far as far as the yellowing maybe to much water .
 
I can't seem to find any calcium or magnesium supplements for plants here.
I read somewhere that crushed egg shells would do...
Can anyone confirm this?
 
Tyzator said:
 
I can't seem to find any calcium or magnesium supplements for plants here.
I read somewhere that crushed egg shells would do...
Can anyone confirm this?
 
They do, but often need to be broken down before your plant can get any use out of them. It's a good add at the beginning of the season but this far in it may not do much for you.
 
Here's a quote from LGHT
 
 
LGHT said:
Calcium is an essential nutrient in building strong cell walls. Peppers are often deficient in calcium. This deficiency causes their stems to be weak, and flower drop. The leaves will show signs of yellowing. The best way to diminish calcium deficiency is to get the calcium right to the plant via foiler feeding.

The most natural way for plants to get the mineral nutrients they need is to take them up through the roots, dissolved in the water available in their growing medium. However some plants may not get enough calcium through the roots because there isn’t enough calcium dissolved in the growing medium solution, or there isn’t enough water moving through the plant. Peppers need a balanced fertilizer solution containing all the essential nutrients, including calcium. Many of the soluble fertilizers like 20-10-20 or 15-5-25 alone do not supply calcium. Supplement these fertilizers with other fertilizers like 15-0-5, 20-0-20, 15-5-15, 15-0-0 or 15.5-0-0 (calcium nitrate) which are good sources of calcium. Other sources of calcium are dolomite, limestone or gypsum that may be pre-mixed with the growing medium.
Calcium deficiency situations may also occur when the roots are inactive and very little water is moving through the plant. When there is little air movement or the relative humidity is high, the plants use less water and take up fewer nutrients. This may lead to a calcium deficiency.

It is good practice to apply calcium as a fertilizer to the root zone and ensure that the environment provides for rapid movement of water through the plant. However, these practices do not always guarantee that the calcium will reach the regions of cell development fast enough to prevent problems. For me I have decided to just foiler feed my plants to ensure they will always have more than they need without having to adjust the ferts due to fast or slower water movement through the plant. Leafs and branches absorb calcium and other nutrients directly into the cells at a rate of about 60% faster then when root feeding avoiding any delay or deficiency to the area needed.

How to Spray Calcium
Mix a water solution containing 200 to 400 ppm calcium from calcium chloride.
Put the solution in a clean sprayer that has not been used for herbicides or other toxic substances.
Spray the plants with a fine mist, only until the leaf or bract surface glistens.
Weekly applications seem to be frequent enough to provide the needed calcium for rapidly expanding leaves.

Important Notes
Calcium solutions may be sprayed on young stock plants as well as the flowering plants. Foliar sprays help prevent leaf edge burn, intensify leaf color and encourage stronger growth.
Use only enough spray to provide a fine mist as you want to prevent the spray solution from “beading-up” on the leaf surface. Soft water will require less spray than hard water. To avoid possible leaf distortion, do not use water which has been treated with phosphoric acid. I ONLY use water directly from my fish tank as it's already oxygenated, and treated.

Spray plants when the growing medium is moist and plants are not wilted or showing stress. Spray when temperatures are less than 80°F/26°C to prevent burn. It is usually safer to spray in early morning since late afternoon spraying may not allow the plants to dry before nightfall.


Make calcium solutions from calcium chloride (CaCl2). Fertilizer grade calcium nitrate (Ca(NO3)2) or liquid calcium preparations used for foliar feeding You should use refined grades of calcium chloride known as “laboratory” or “reagent” grade. Calcium chloride is available in the dihydrate or anhydrous forms; dihydrate is usually less expensive. Fertilizer grades of calcium chloride may contain enough impurities to burn the leaves. Horticulture grade calcium nitrate has also been used without causing injury to plants.

To mix a 1.5 gallon batch using Calcium Chloride Dihydrate CaCl2 o 2H2O use 1/4 oz. which would give you a spray at 324 ppm.
To mix a 1.5 gallon batch using Calcium Chloride Anhydrous CaCl2 use 5.32 grams which would give you a spray at 350 ppm
 
What is with my Trinidad Scorpion pepper? Foliage covered with black spots and fall.
Soil
Temp. 25 - 30 C
Humidity 45 - 68
Sun 16 hours
k0rchz.jpg
 
Evolka, what does your plants growing tips or terminal buds look like, also the same black spots.
 
If so I would look very, very closely (powerful magnifying  glass) for some nasties eg, mites.
 
D
 
Walti72 said:
Evolka, what does your plants growing tips or terminal buds look like, also the same black spots.
 
If so I would look very, very closely (powerful magnifying  glass) for some nasties eg, mites.
 
D
This is not a mites. I think it's a bacteria or fungus.
 
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