Nutrient Deficiency?

newbiepepperguy said:
Ok, I'll give that a try. I won't notice a difference for a while I'd assume? Meaning the leaves already affected won't totally rebound, but new growth will show improvement?
 
Mine seemed to rebound fairly quickly. I would say 90% improvement after 2-3 days. I may be completely wrong, but setting the fan on a lower setting isn't going to have any adverse effect on them like adding fertilizer could if they don't need it, or even if over feeding is the issue in the first place. I've quickly learned to try less drastic corrections before throwing a bunch of different fertilizers at mine. Fertilizer seems to be suggested a lot on here, but unless there's obvious signs of deficiencies (not in your case), it shouldn't be suggested in my opinion.
 
newbiepepperguy said:
 
Thanks for the info. That leads to 3 questions, if you don't mind answering:
 
1) I've got some MG plant food with the 24-8-16 ratio from last year. Should I use that instead?
2) My decision to add additional fertilizer was based on the notion that low Calcium may be causing the issue with the upward leaf curl. Is that not what I should be looking at?
 
3) Based on 1 and 2, what nutes would you recommend? Assuming I may need some Calcium or whatever I'm short on, and would like to not have to worry about organic fertilizers not breaking down.
 

1) wrong question.  Let's move on to 2 and 3
2) I don't believe that you have a calcium issue, at all.  I'm going to withhold trying to give you a diagnosis that will lead you down a path of making a specific fix, when as a newbie, you need to be more focused on the general fundamentals of growing.
3) Here comes the heart of the matter:
 
You NEED to worry about your PH, at some point.  That is whether you are talking about an organic, or an inorganic/synthetic fertilizer.  Organic elements need a certain PH for both breaking the element down, AND making it available.  Inorganic/synthetic ferts require a target PH for uptake only.  Your limiting factors are almost always going to be Nitrogen and Calcium.  It's very rare for container plants to deficient in P or K. (not that's impossible, just not that common)  The good news is, organic containers tend to very good at self PH buffering, if you start right, based on a known good potting mix.
 
As for recommendations, we make this way harder than it needs to be, most times.   Use your 3-4-4 Jobes fertilizer. (I thought the N was lower, and that you were picking it purposely, for  that)  Kick it off by watering it with a nice AACT. (look that up on the forum - there's a sticky)  That's really easy.  Otherwise, CNS17 Grow is my newbie recommendation.  It's a one part, and you'll never need anything else.
 
Make sure your plants have really good air circulation, also...
 
newbiepepperguy said:
 
The comment you have for Calcium supplementation is really what started this whole thread.
 

You seem to have misunderstood me.  Somebody else said you need calcium right now.  I merely said that MG fertilizer is GOING TO require supplementation.
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I don't believe for 1 second that you currently have a calcium issue.  I don't believe that you need any magic sprays.  I think you just need to work out your long term regimen for the plants, and everything else will work out, on its own.
 
I'd also like to mention, if it is a nutrient deficiency, it would be Potassium, and so adding a bunch of Calcium, Magnesium, and/or Sodium will only skew the Potassium uptake. The best way to tell if it is indeed a Potassium deficiency is to help the plant to slow down perspiration (lower fan setting and less heat) and lay off the Cal-Mag. If the problem persists, then give it some Potassium.
 
Leaf curly up is a sign that something is wrong with perspiration.
 
solid7 said:
 
1) wrong question.  Let's move on to 2 and 3
2) I don't believe that you have a calcium issue, at all.  I'm going to withhold trying to give you a diagnosis that will lead you down a path of making a specific fix, when as a newbie, you need to be more focused on the general fundamentals of growing.
3) Here comes the heart of the matter:
 
You NEED to worry about your PH, at some point.  That is whether you are talking about an organic, or an inorganic/synthetic fertilizer.  Organic elements need a certain PH for both breaking the element down, AND making it available.  Inorganic/synthetic ferts require a target PH for uptake only.  Your limiting factors are almost always going to be Nitrogen and Calcium.  It's very rare for container plants to deficient in P or K. (not that's impossible, just not that common)  The good news is, organic containers tend to very good at self PH buffering, if you start right, based on a known good potting mix.
 
As for recommendations, we make this way harder than it needs to be, most times.   Use your 3-4-4 Jobes fertilizer. (I thought the N was lower, and that you were picking it purposely, for  that)  Kick it off by watering it with a nice AACT. (look that up on the forum - there's a sticky)  That's really easy.  Otherwise, CNS17 Grow is my newbie recommendation.  It's a one part, and you'll never need anything else.
 
Make sure your plants have really good air circulation, also...
 
Thanks!
 
I'm using MG potting mix. I know a lot of people aren't in love with it, but I've not heard somebody say it causes issue per se (just that they like others better) and between a sale, rebate, and online coupon, I got 3 cubic feet at a local gardening store for 5 bucks total. I just couldn't pass it up. Is the PH notoriously bad in this potting mix?
 
There are comments earlier in this thread that I may have *too much* air circulation. I've got a tower fan on the plants for the 16 hours the lights are on. Should that be sufficient?
 
All of the rest aside, my main concern is the leaf curl issue, as, aside from that, the plants seem quite healthy. Are you saying I should stop worrying about that, and just leave them be, as long as I'm watering regularly and doing all of the other basic stuff?
 
newbiepepperguy said:
I'm a little confused by the differing opinions, here:
 
 
And then:
 
 
Well like a said, too much Calcium and Magnesium can cause a Potassium deficiency. Doesn't mean there isn't enough Potassium in the soil. Just that it is interfering with the uptake. I don't think that's your problem though. I stand by what I said first. The plant is transpiring too much. More than likely because of your fan being on medium. May even be heat if your heat is really high. But I would be willing to bet it's the fan. Follow both of our advice. Don't do anything drastic with ferts and turn the fan on low:)
 
solid7 said:
 
You seem to have misunderstood me.  Somebody else said you need calcium right now.  I merely said that MG fertilizer is GOING TO require supplementation.
.
I don't believe for 1 second that you currently have a calcium issue.  I don't believe that you need any magic sprays.  I think you just need to work out your long term regimen for the plants, and everything else will work out, on its own.
 
Ok, thanks. I think we're on the same page, now.
 
To that end, assuming I'm able to contain my self and leave the plants be for now, and just focus on getting the regimen down - is the AACT really necessary, or just an added bonus? Assuming my watering schedule is regular, and I use the 3-4-4 fertilizer on a regular schedule, am I going to need anything else?
 
Beardedpepper said:
 
Well like a said, too much Calcium and Magnesium can cause a Potassium deficiency. Doesn't mean there isn't enough Potassium in the soil. Just that it is interfering with the uptake. I don't think that's your problem though. I stand by what I said first. The plant is transpiring too much. More than likely because of your fan being on medium. May even be heat if your heat is really high. But I would be willing to bet it's the fan. Follow both of our advice. Don't do anything drastic with ferts and turn the fan on low:)
 
Thanks, I've already turned the fan down to low.
 
Is MG potting mix really high enough (unamended) in Calcium or Magnesium to cause the Potassium issue?
 
newbiepepperguy said:
I'm a little confused by the differing opinions, here:
 
 
And then:
 
 

Don't be.  It's not a K deficiency. There's no yellowing of any kind.
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Get everything sorted - get a good nutrient in there, don't overwater, get a fan on the plants (if they're not outside), and watch for pests.
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Don't try figuring everything out on bullet points.  You'll get frustrated fast.
 
solid7 said:
 
Don't be.  It's not a K deficiency. There's no yellowing of any kind.
.
Get everything sorted - get a good nutrient in there, don't overwater, get a fan on the plants (if they're not outside), and watch for pests.
.
Don't try figuring everything out on bullet points.  You'll get frustrated fast.
 
He's had a fan on them set on medium. That's why I mentioned that it is probably a transpiration problem (transpiring too much).
 
newbiepepperguy said:
 
I was looking for low N because the Miracle Gro fertilizer is 24-8-16 as far as I can tell, and that, coupled with the fact that someone else commented that I have plenty of Nitrogen, made me think I could balance out better with a lower N fertilizer. And it's not so much that the N is low on the tomato-tone and garden tone - if memory serves, they're 3-4-6 and 3-4-4 - they're just *lower* N than MG is.
 
I had no idea about organics being locked out without a proper PH range. What would I need to do to balance out PH if that's an issue? If nothing can really be done, what should I use instead?
save you some good ol' rain water ,     :party:
 
newbiepepperguy said:
 
Ok, thanks. I think we're on the same page, now.
 
To that end, assuming I'm able to contain my self and leave the plants be for now, and just focus on getting the regimen down - is the AACT really necessary, or just an added bonus? Assuming my watering schedule is regular, and I use the 3-4-4 fertilizer on a regular schedule, am I going to need anything else?
 

AACT is going to accelerate the availability of your organic fertilizer.  Is it necessary?  Well, how fast do you want to be in the growing zone?  That's a question only you can answer.
.
If you're lazy or impatient, I don't recommend that you go the organic route.
 
newbiepepperguy said:
 
Thanks, I've already turned the fan down to low.
 
Is MG potting mix really high enough (unamended) in Calcium or Magnesium to cause the Potassium issue?
 
I wouldn't think so. That's what I'm using. The only one's that have had the same leaf curl are the ones that got too close to the light or that the fan was pointed directly at.
 
solid7 said:
 
AACT is going to accelerate the availability of your organic fertilizer.  Is it necessary?  Well, how fast do you want to be in the growing zone?  That's a question only you can answer.
.
If you're lazy or impatient, I don't recommend that you go the organic route.
 
Ok - so maybe putting the organics in the raised beds so they'll break down slowly over the season, and utilizing a non-organic fertilizer for the time being might be best?
 
My hesitation to use AACT is mostly due to space constraints for the setup to make it somewhere, but I also don't really want to buy and put together the system, anyway.
 
newbiepepperguy said:
 
Ok - so maybe putting the organics in the raised beds so they'll break down slowly over the season, and utilizing a non-organic fertilizer for the time being might be best?
 
 
Yes, probably a better idea.  I find that organic amendments in a raised bed work faster than containers, anyway.
 
I still say the CNS17 Grow is perfect for a newbie.  It's a really great way to set a baseline, to reflect on as your knowledge and experience grow.
 
Beardedpepper said:
 
I wouldn't think so. That's what I'm using. The only one's that have had the same leaf curl are the ones that got too close to the light or that the fan was pointed directly at.
 
hmm... the plants exhibiting the curling behavior are all over the place as far as how directly the fan hits them. The only thing they have in common is that they're all among the farthest along as far as flowering and overall maturity goes, which is why a nutrient deficiency seemed like a likely culprit.
 
solid7 said:
 
Yes, probably a better idea.  I find that organic amendments in a raised bed work faster than containers, anyway.
 
I still say the CNS17 Grow is perfect for a newbie.  It's a really great way to set a baseline, to reflect on as your knowledge and experience grow.
 
Thanks! You've been extremely helpful!
 
How widely available is the CNS17 Grow?  Would I be able to find some at the local gardening store? It's a pretty big place.
 
newbiepepperguy said:
 
hmm... the plants exhibiting the curling behavior are all over the place as far as how directly the fan hits them. The only thing they have in common is that they're all among the farthest along as far as flowering and overall maturity goes, which is why a nutrient deficiency seemed like a likely culprit.
 
Farthest along as in taller than the rest of the plants and so closer to the light?
 
Beardedpepper said:
 
Farthest along as in taller than the rest of the plants and so closer to the light?
 
I mean, depending on the species and some other factors, mature plants do tend to be taller, yes.
 
But I can say that I have some Poblanos and Cayennes that are taller than the affected peppers (but not as mature as far as flowering, sets of leaves, node growth, etc) that are not affected. And some of them are even more directly hit by the fan, too.
 
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