+1 solid advice, it's either that or only grow one variety per season which I've done in the past but can be boring unless you love that one pepper
You'd also need to know that none of your close neighbors are growing other varieties as well ...
-
Do you need help identifying a 🌶?
Is your plant suffering from an unknown issue? 🤧
Then ask in Identification and Diagnosis.
breeding Plant isolation techniques to prevent open hybrids
- Thread starter thegreenman
- Start date
You'd also need to know that none of your close neighbors are growing other varieties as well ...
Now that is some good, real world experience info. Thanks Ill definately keep that in mind.
I usually wait until some flowering starts then take the time to remove all open flowers and cover. Then I tie around the top of the bucket to secure the netting and let them go. On a nice warm day if I think about it I will tap the bucket with my foot(read:kick but no field goals) while watering through the netting. They will drop flowers, but even my in-grounds do that. Once I can see several pods and enough that I am happy I remove the netting and mark those pods.
Marking: Cut a drinking straw in [sup]1[/sup]/[sub]4[/sub] inch lengths and then slice lengthwise. I just slide the short lengths onto my scissors and snip. Then simply pull open and put on the stem right above the pod's cap. Unlike yarn, it won't restrict growth and I have had major winds not take them off.
You shouldn't need to but it may help dislodge and distribute the pollen and increase fruit set. Late mornings seem to be the best time for "gentile agitation".
If you don't have many insects netting isn't going to actually stop airborne pollen. So in my opinion unless you have non porous isolation material Its a waste of time excepting stopping flying insects. I have yet to have a cross from saved seed and my plants have little to none space between them. I also have hardly any flying pollinating insects around my house which probably also helps.
1.5 miles (I think is the magic number) space between capsicum species before they are to be considered isolated unless using cloches etc to isolate plants
1.5 miles (I think is the magic number) space between capsicum species before they are to be considered isolated unless using cloches etc to isolate plants
Ok I have ants crawling into my flowers and I'm pretty sure they are doing a lot of pollinating. No aphids by the way, they must be nice ants 
These plants are in a garden bed not pots, and so if I wanted to cover the whole plant with fabric then I guess I'd have to secure it around the base of the main stem?
It might be easier to put smaller bags around branches.
I have lots of different plants close together so I might give this a go.
What size organza bags mentioned in the first post does anyone use?
These plants are in a garden bed not pots, and so if I wanted to cover the whole plant with fabric then I guess I'd have to secure it around the base of the main stem?
It might be easier to put smaller bags around branches.
I have lots of different plants close together so I might give this a go.
What size organza bags mentioned in the first post does anyone use?
I'm amending this first post to include the techniques as we've discussed in the thread below:
Plant/Flower Isolation techniques.
- Distance Isolation : seperating plants by a significant distance to avoid crossing. This is difficult to do for most home/hobby growers the recommended distance is 1/2 mile or more between plants.
- Caging isolation: create a mesh cage around the plant or individual flowers/branches using Tulle fabric or Organza bags. This is probably the most popular method, and is used by commercial seed banks such as Chili Pepper Institute (see below).
- Flower sealing: use gel caps (vitamin type) or elmers glue to seal the flowers after they are full size but before they open. The glue or caps pop or fall off when the pod develops. People have reported mixed results with these methods, such as bud drop and problems with rain melting gel caps, or washing off the glue. YMMV.
I wrote to the NMSU Chile Pepper Institute and asked what procedures they follow. They replied that they use the caging method and sent me this article which details their method of isolation.
The material in the picture looks like Tyvek , and nothing like what i have just googled on Tulle fabric... Its different no? Perhaps it could work better as the Tulle fabric holes look a bit large and could have some wind pollenation issues, can anyone confirm?
midwestchilehead
eXtreme
the picture looks like organza. Tulle seems to have much smaller holes. Try Hobby Lobby for a source. It is fun when the clerk asks if you are making a wedding dress, and you blush, grin, and say loud enough for all the ladies to hear, "no, it is for my peppers."
or ask for 10 yards of red while in your garden clothes(read: dirty) and after "the look" get asked if you are make a tutu. "No it is for isolation" requires explanation or a hasty exit. lol
Guys sorry for this stupid question ...
I planted 26 plants, and 7 different kinds. They will be next to eachother.
The only danger is that the seeds may be hybrid ?
( And my peppers will still be normal right ? )
And if so, i will have to start from 'real/true' seeds from the store again next year ?
I planted 26 plants, and 7 different kinds. They will be next to eachother.
The only danger is that the seeds may be hybrid ?
( And my peppers will still be normal right ? )
And if so, i will have to start from 'real/true' seeds from the store again next year ?