The bad thing about that is they could already be impacted. Hopefully he gets good news from tests and it is not BWSavinaRed said:
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romy6 said:
I would be pretty surprised if that was it, but I guess a possibility
SavinaRed said:
Depending on the news I get, I may do that for a few varieties. I went into this year with 3x more plants than last year(thanks to all the different varieties I saw on the forum last year), so I will be ok either way.
I've had this happen to sogged out plants behind a tropical storm that dumped for 7 days straight ...
The roots are rotting IMO, from being consistently wet ... that's why they aren't bright white ...
I would add H2O2 and Aspirin to water and try to clean, oxygenate, and support the immune system of the plants, and then come right behind with Great White (or any quality myco) and AACT and try to re-establish the root colonization etc ...
Hope it straightens out quickly!
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The roots are rotting IMO, from being consistently wet ... that's why they aren't bright white ...
I would add H2O2 and Aspirin to water and try to clean, oxygenate, and support the immune system of the plants, and then come right behind with Great White (or any quality myco) and AACT and try to re-establish the root colonization etc ...
Hope it straightens out quickly!
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This describes my problem to a tee...hopefully a dose of fungal stuff will help but it seems like a fatal issue....crap. 
I'll give'em a day and then start the removal process. Oddly enough it's the same area in my garden that I used a questionable bag of MG that was overly dry inside but I used anyway...<---stupid me.
I've never had this problem in the 5 years of using this patch of ground.
"If your peppers are wilting suddenly, developing large yellow areas and drooping (especially if this starts on the bottom leaves and moves upward) despite adequate watering, fungal wilt is probably to blame. Spotted wilt virus is a less common cause of wilted pepper plants, but if your plant’s leaves are dotted with brown or black spots or unusual yellow lines or circles and the symptoms move through the plant from the top down, it is very likely the cause."
Only thing good about this is that it hasn't affected my super hots and only the cayenne and milder peps....still sucks though.
I'll give'em a day and then start the removal process. Oddly enough it's the same area in my garden that I used a questionable bag of MG that was overly dry inside but I used anyway...<---stupid me.I've never had this problem in the 5 years of using this patch of ground.
"If your peppers are wilting suddenly, developing large yellow areas and drooping (especially if this starts on the bottom leaves and moves upward) despite adequate watering, fungal wilt is probably to blame. Spotted wilt virus is a less common cause of wilted pepper plants, but if your plant’s leaves are dotted with brown or black spots or unusual yellow lines or circles and the symptoms move through the plant from the top down, it is very likely the cause."
Only thing good about this is that it hasn't affected my super hots and only the cayenne and milder peps....still sucks though.
Well that was quick. I guess I will hope for the best, dry weather and maybe be able to salvage a few plants.
Recommendation:
The fungus Phytophthora was identified in the roots and crown tissue of these plants. Remove unthrifty plant
material. Continue to eliminate diseased plants and plant debris as they appear. General sanitation is especially
important for Phytophthora control. Be sure to rotate curcubits or tomato, pepper, or eggplant out of this area for
at least three years. Phytophthora is a water-mold that requires excellent drainage and prudent water
management to control. The disease is more severe in low or poorly drained areas after heavy rains, but may
soon spread to all of the susceptible plants. Avoid excess irrigation, prolonged soil moisture, wet foliage, and
splashing. Plant on a ridged or raised, dome-shaped bed. This will improve drainage and minimize the conditions
that favor the fungus. Use disease-free seed. The following are labeled products for water-mold control:
cyazofamid, dimethomorph, etridiazole, fosetyl-Al, famoxadone plus cymoxanil, fluoicolide, mandipropamid,
metalaxyl, mefenoxam, mancozeb, or propamocarb. Be sure to follow all manufacturers' label restrictions and
instructions. It may be prudent to apply the materials at transplant next season and repeat as per label specified
intervals.
This bed is roughly 25 x 15 along the side of my house. It gets tilled every fall and spring. Last fall I put a few inches of shredded leaves and this year I added mushroom compost before it was tilled. Not sure if that hurt the drainage, but I have planted in this bed for the last 8 or 9 years without any issue. Live and learn.
I am going to google them, but does anyone have any experience with any of these?
The following are labeled products for water-mold control:
cyazofamid, dimethomorph, etridiazole, fosetyl-Al, famoxadone plus cymoxanil, fluoicolide, mandipropamid,
metalaxyl, mefenoxam, mancozeb, or propamocarb.
Recommendation:
The fungus Phytophthora was identified in the roots and crown tissue of these plants. Remove unthrifty plant
material. Continue to eliminate diseased plants and plant debris as they appear. General sanitation is especially
important for Phytophthora control. Be sure to rotate curcubits or tomato, pepper, or eggplant out of this area for
at least three years. Phytophthora is a water-mold that requires excellent drainage and prudent water
management to control. The disease is more severe in low or poorly drained areas after heavy rains, but may
soon spread to all of the susceptible plants. Avoid excess irrigation, prolonged soil moisture, wet foliage, and
splashing. Plant on a ridged or raised, dome-shaped bed. This will improve drainage and minimize the conditions
that favor the fungus. Use disease-free seed. The following are labeled products for water-mold control:
cyazofamid, dimethomorph, etridiazole, fosetyl-Al, famoxadone plus cymoxanil, fluoicolide, mandipropamid,
metalaxyl, mefenoxam, mancozeb, or propamocarb. Be sure to follow all manufacturers' label restrictions and
instructions. It may be prudent to apply the materials at transplant next season and repeat as per label specified
intervals.
This bed is roughly 25 x 15 along the side of my house. It gets tilled every fall and spring. Last fall I put a few inches of shredded leaves and this year I added mushroom compost before it was tilled. Not sure if that hurt the drainage, but I have planted in this bed for the last 8 or 9 years without any issue. Live and learn.
I am going to google them, but does anyone have any experience with any of these?
The following are labeled products for water-mold control:
cyazofamid, dimethomorph, etridiazole, fosetyl-Al, famoxadone plus cymoxanil, fluoicolide, mandipropamid,
metalaxyl, mefenoxam, mancozeb, or propamocarb.
Look for a Bayer product ... I once used Previcur ... I bought a small amount from a company in town who leases potted plants to corporate customer's offices ...
I still think the aspirin is worthwhile during the delay, and it's dirt cheap - http://www.plantea.com/plant-aspirin.htm
.02
Both of these two Mystery Citrus grew algae/fungus in the roots in the little hydro cups ...
This one got Aspirin water ...
This one did not ...
I think HTH salvaged a cutting near death w/ it, too ...
I still think the aspirin is worthwhile during the delay, and it's dirt cheap - http://www.plantea.com/plant-aspirin.htm
.02
Both of these two Mystery Citrus grew algae/fungus in the roots in the little hydro cups ...
This one got Aspirin water ...
This one did not ...
I think HTH salvaged a cutting near death w/ it, too ...
http://www.amazon.com/Monterey-Agri-Fos-Disease-Control-Fungicide/dp/B0018C6N14/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
Think I am going to try this one.
Think I am going to try this one.
Cool. I think I paid like 4x that much for <1/4 of the amount, so that's nice, anyways ...
I'm a staunch Bayer guy, anymore.
Besides having worked better for me along the way, I think they have to consider their research in light of all of their research ...
They had to reveal a lot to the EU during the opening phases of the honeybee crap re: their product line based on nicotine ... the nuonicotinoids/neonicotinoids or something like that ...
I had a great result using their hormore-based product for ants around the perimeter of the house ... took a while, but the problem was resolved some months later, and has never crept back up ...
Who knows what the ripple effect is, but I've never applied an outdoor product so targeted ...
Didn't kill the lizards, palmetto bugs, silverfish or anything - just the ants.
I'm a staunch Bayer guy, anymore.
Besides having worked better for me along the way, I think they have to consider their research in light of all of their research ...
They had to reveal a lot to the EU during the opening phases of the honeybee crap re: their product line based on nicotine ... the nuonicotinoids/neonicotinoids or something like that ...
I had a great result using their hormore-based product for ants around the perimeter of the house ... took a while, but the problem was resolved some months later, and has never crept back up ...
Who knows what the ripple effect is, but I've never applied an outdoor product so targeted ...
Didn't kill the lizards, palmetto bugs, silverfish or anything - just the ants.
tctenten said:
Usually, you get what you paid for =)
Although, check out their All-in-One line ... those are the one's I'm really getting down w/ and liking ...
It looks like their All-in-One Rose & Flower Care has active ingredients that match up pretty well ...
It says it's Active Ingredient: 0.80% Tebuconazole (CAS No. 107534-96-3) and 0.15% Imidacloprid (CAS No. 138261-41-3) ... the -zole's are your fungus fighters ...
I know what a lot of the partial words in your word list above are, because they are common ingredients in the eye drops used after ophthalmic surgeries to keep the same shit at bay and prevent endopthalmitis (blinding infection following intraocular surgery) ...
If you've ever battled ringworm or jock itch or althetes foot ... it's miconazole etc ...
That Bayer product looks like it's < $20, too.
Anyways ... OK, good luck =/
Sucks.
bpiela said:
Yes.
My plot w/ Bacterial Leaf Spot had a similar time line ...
It infected my future grow twice after the initial one.
This is my 3rd attempt, 18 months after the 2nd attempt ...
I would consider it fairly accurate, I'm afraid ...
Sooooo? ... what's happening? ...
Currently have another 4 plants with full wilt. I got my Agri-fos yesterday and this morning I drenched the effected plants and the soil around them. I also foliar sprayed 2 other plants to see if there is any leaf burn issues.
The 4 plants are goners, but just trying to eliminate the fungus. I am not really sure how fungus spreads?
If there is no ill effects, I will spray all the plants later this week.
The 4 plants are goners, but just trying to eliminate the fungus. I am not really sure how fungus spreads?
If there is no ill effects, I will spray all the plants later this week.
Three years is very common however for many terrible killers like the one above. I am about to give up on tomatoes for this very reason...everywhere they go they bring damn issues!bpiela said:
Not sure how it spreads but if it was at the root level could be spread by water and probably even worms one could assume. I hope you recover!tctenten said:
Any mystery wine still alive?
Yup ... I terminated maters for that reason a few yrs back, too.
I would thought it would be a drench treatment ...
I would thought it would be a drench treatment ...
Yes...one of the effected one now is a MW, but I have this guy in a 25 gallon root pouch on the other side of my houseJoynersHotPeppers said:
Just waiting for them to ripen.
The instructions recommended foliar spray....but I did both.grantmichaels said:
I would be pretty upset about all of this but when it gets to me I just look at these.
First year growing tomatillos....WTF
They grow like weeds.
My 3 tomatillos are over 7 foot and taking over my 8 * 4 sqftg. The pods look right on your MW hopefully the color is right 
Worst case maybe it is a chocolate but knock on wood they have continued to be true!
Worst case maybe it is a chocolate but knock on wood they have continued to be true!Some good news and some bad news.
So far 9 out of 60 plants have been pulled. Since spraying on Sunday, I have had some leaf drop/ burn on some of the plants but I have not noticed anymore plant loss.
It is still early in the game, but hopefully the tide is turning. For the next few years I will use primarily root pouches in this area. Through a few emails with Rutgers they said the Phytophthora will not travel into the root pouches
So far 9 out of 60 plants have been pulled. Since spraying on Sunday, I have had some leaf drop/ burn on some of the plants but I have not noticed anymore plant loss.
It is still early in the game, but hopefully the tide is turning. For the next few years I will use primarily root pouches in this area. Through a few emails with Rutgers they said the Phytophthora will not travel into the root pouches
tctenten said:Some good news and some bad news.
So far 9 out of 60 plants have been pulled. Since spraying on Sunday, I have had some leaf drop/ burn on some of the plants but I have not noticed anymore plant loss.
It is still early in the game, but hopefully the tide is turning. For the next few years I will use primarily root pouches in this area. Through a few emails with Rutgers they said the Phytophthora will travel into the root pouches
Not through weed liner, though, right? ...