When I checked my plants today I noticed something very strange. On my Bulgarian Carrot I noticed 3 or 4 pods had what looked like wet spots on the flesh. Not dark or sunken or anything else, just looked like a blister almost but soggy. Any ideas??
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Rotting Fruit
- Thread starter gardenkiller
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Is that what you meant by "GARDEN KILLER"? Sorry!
I definitely came across that while searching for a cure for my wilting plants. I want to say that it is a fungus. It afflicts tomatoes and peppers. You definitely want to get that treated!!
I definitely came across that while searching for a cure for my wilting plants. I want to say that it is a fungus. It afflicts tomatoes and peppers. You definitely want to get that treated!!
Any ideas on what kind of fungus? Strange too that it is only bothering one plant.
Don't count on it to stay that way! Google Fusarium, tomato spot, and pepper fungus. I would do it for you, but I have to go. Good Luck!
The more I am reading the more I am thinking it is sunscald, but I don't want to jump to conclusions just yet. The main reason I am thinking that way is because the plant in question was invaded by earwigs a few weeks back and has quite a few bullet wounded leaves and doesn't give much protection to the pods. Like I said not for sure yet, but leaning that way.
Okay I am gonna take some pics of the pods, and the plant, dont laugh though its a pretty sad lookin plant. Dern greedy bugs!
Bacterial spot makes holes in the leaves and squishy spots on the peppers.
Okay here is a pic of the pods, not the best but you can still see the problem. Was gonna put up a pic of the plant but a freak rain storm just showed up. Whooda thunk it, no rain in weeks, as soon as I need there to be no rain......RAIN!
Yeah I thought of that too, but its not reall on the ends with the exception of the one pod.
Yeah the pic in the last link looks pretty close I guess. Now to figure out why. It can't be lack of Cal, I gave a dose of complete with micro and macro here a couple weeks ago. Plant is in 12 inch container, watered when needed, not too much.
That doesn't look like a lack of calcium to me. Are you sure the earwigs did all the damage to the leaves? Pics of the plant would be good. I hope it is just something simple, but I would be very concerned if I were you.If it is a bacteria or virus it will spread to other plants. Plants damaged by bugs are much more susceptible to infection.
Okay then time to move the whole plant to the back yard!
Blossom end rot! though, you may also have a touch of sunscald looking at the pod on the left though the discoloured area usually turns whitish. mature green fruits are sensitive to this disorder. both can be caused by nitrogen and water stress on the plants. most likely it is blossom end rot - it's damage on pods can be up to several inches long. if your pods have been ripening prematurely it is a good chance this is what they have.
I am still holding out hope that the whole problem is sunscald. I still have not seen any evidence that makes me 100% certain that it is BER and none of the other fruits on the plant look bad at all.
gardenkiller the pics looks very similar to the problem I had with the Big Jim.
It started to happened when I neglected (was on vacation for 2 weeks) my hydro setup. The hydro solution was not changed for more then a month and probably lacking in nutrients.
All this was under artificial light so no sunscald possible.
So more then likely you have BER.
I would try to pump the nutrients with instant plant food aka miracle gro or something better.
Having a balanced amount of nutrients can be tricky so don't go crazy on it.
Good luck.
Blossom-End Rot (BER) - Characterized by a large, leathery brown or black spot on the bottom of the fruit. In some cases, internal BER can occur within fruit. It generally occurs on the first fruit cluster. BER is caused by a lack of calcium in the fruit which causes the fruit to die back creating the characteristic spot. What can you do to prevent it? Have your soil tested to make sure calcium is present in adequate amounts. Chances are the calcium level will be fine but if it is not, add limestone (for acid soils with a pH below 6), or gypsum when the soil pH is in the 6 to 7 range. If calcium levels are okay, the next most important control is to maintain optimum soil moisture. When tomatoes experience the slightest bit of drought, BER may result. Using mulches will usually significantly decrease BER as excessive evaporation from soil is reduced. If growing on bare ground, avoid cultivating too close to plants to prevent root damage and the need to maintain deep root development. Varieties will vary in their susceptibility so if you have a problem with a particular variety, choose a new one next year. When side-dressing plants, using a nitrate type fertilizer like calcium nitrate is preferable to ammonium based ones like urea. Finally, don't bother to use calcium sprays. They are worthless in combating the problem. The same problem can occur on pepper and eggplant.
It started to happened when I neglected (was on vacation for 2 weeks) my hydro setup. The hydro solution was not changed for more then a month and probably lacking in nutrients.
All this was under artificial light so no sunscald possible.
So more then likely you have BER.
I would try to pump the nutrients with instant plant food aka miracle gro or something better.
Having a balanced amount of nutrients can be tricky so don't go crazy on it.
Good luck.
Blossom-End Rot (BER) - Characterized by a large, leathery brown or black spot on the bottom of the fruit. In some cases, internal BER can occur within fruit. It generally occurs on the first fruit cluster. BER is caused by a lack of calcium in the fruit which causes the fruit to die back creating the characteristic spot. What can you do to prevent it? Have your soil tested to make sure calcium is present in adequate amounts. Chances are the calcium level will be fine but if it is not, add limestone (for acid soils with a pH below 6), or gypsum when the soil pH is in the 6 to 7 range. If calcium levels are okay, the next most important control is to maintain optimum soil moisture. When tomatoes experience the slightest bit of drought, BER may result. Using mulches will usually significantly decrease BER as excessive evaporation from soil is reduced. If growing on bare ground, avoid cultivating too close to plants to prevent root damage and the need to maintain deep root development. Varieties will vary in their susceptibility so if you have a problem with a particular variety, choose a new one next year. When side-dressing plants, using a nitrate type fertilizer like calcium nitrate is preferable to ammonium based ones like urea. Finally, don't bother to use calcium sprays. They are worthless in combating the problem. The same problem can occur on pepper and eggplant.
Gardenkiller i hope you don't mind but I took the liberty of copying your photo and emailing it to my county extension office the lady there has been very helpful with my problems she got back to me within hours here is her reply.
Hi, the photos bring some photos to mind, but I am not confident of any one diagnosis. Are there any critters in any of those peppers when you cut them open?
Our retired vegetable expert still does some scouting for local commercial growers. He turns in a weekly report with photos, and the 05 through 07 reports are on our website. I am going to suggest you look at the pepper photos with his explanations from the 2006 reports of July 21 and August 4, as well as the 2005 August reports and see if you may have scald, blossom end rot, and/or virus symptoms. The August 29 report has leaf symptoms of the virus. At www.msue.msu.edu/monroe choose local vegetable report under "What's New?" The past year's reports have links near the top of the current report page, and they are chronological.
If it is scald and/or blossom end rot, you may not continue to see symptoms as the season progresses. For any of these options, there is little you can do besides ordinary care/watering. If you can see a pattern or symptoms different from Paul's photos, feel free to send me more photos/questions.
You can also send samples to the MSU diagnostic lab, but I understand that is not very economical for home gardeners.
Dale
Hi, the photos bring some photos to mind, but I am not confident of any one diagnosis. Are there any critters in any of those peppers when you cut them open?
Our retired vegetable expert still does some scouting for local commercial growers. He turns in a weekly report with photos, and the 05 through 07 reports are on our website. I am going to suggest you look at the pepper photos with his explanations from the 2006 reports of July 21 and August 4, as well as the 2005 August reports and see if you may have scald, blossom end rot, and/or virus symptoms. The August 29 report has leaf symptoms of the virus. At www.msue.msu.edu/monroe choose local vegetable report under "What's New?" The past year's reports have links near the top of the current report page, and they are chronological.
If it is scald and/or blossom end rot, you may not continue to see symptoms as the season progresses. For any of these options, there is little you can do besides ordinary care/watering. If you can see a pattern or symptoms different from Paul's photos, feel free to send me more photos/questions.
You can also send samples to the MSU diagnostic lab, but I understand that is not very economical for home gardeners.
Dale
Hey man thanks a million and one for doing that. Yet another reason I love it here so much. I guarantee that none of the other forums I have been a part of would have had members go to that much work for someone they don't even know. So without sounding like I am in love with you.....THANK YOU!
As far as the peppers, I am still leaning toward sunscald just because it really seems to fit. No black at the blossom end, and the plant really isn't protecting the pods because of leaf damage so the pods themselves just sit and roast in their own juices. Plus the plant is sitting against the south side of my house with 90+ degree heat on it plus the heat reflecting off of the house. Probably not the greatest idea, but most of the healthier plants just love it! BTW no bugs in the pod either.
As far as the peppers, I am still leaning toward sunscald just because it really seems to fit. No black at the blossom end, and the plant really isn't protecting the pods because of leaf damage so the pods themselves just sit and roast in their own juices. Plus the plant is sitting against the south side of my house with 90+ degree heat on it plus the heat reflecting off of the house. Probably not the greatest idea, but most of the healthier plants just love it! BTW no bugs in the pod either.