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The Secret to Fertilizing.
- Thread starter Weed
- Start date
That doesn't look like a bull of either species so I'm not sure how to take that.
If youuuuuuuuuu water your plants on a schedule...
...then you don't know the seeeeeeeeecret.
Ok its simple.
Fertilize when your plants are thirsty. Really thirsty.
Then stand back and watch what osmotic pressure forcing water and nutrients into a plant will do.
If youuuuuuuuuu water your plants on a schedule...
...then you don't know the seeeeeeeeecret.
Ok its simple.
Fertilize when your plants are thirsty. Really thirsty.
Then stand back and watch what osmotic pressure forcing water and nutrients into a plant will do.
is this some kind of piss take? seems like a sure fire way to kill your plants that are already having a hard time.able eye said:
I may be way off, but this goes against what I know, and what it says on the back of every fertilizer pack i know..
is it not the first rule of applying ferts NOT to do it when the plants are thirsty and needing water badly?
As per osmosis, water will gravitate towards whichever cell or solution is "hypertonic" i.e the one with the highest concentration of salts.
Now, i can sort of understand if you were to use some really really weak ferts the concentration of salts in the plants MAY still be the "hypertonic" one in the situation, and suck the moisture back into the plant and not the other way around, but overdo it with the ferts and shes toast.
the plant needs to be the "hypertonic" cell, and it cant be if you go load the dry soil up with fert salts and draw the remaining moisture out of the plant into it.
very weak ferts? i guess that could potentially work.
as i said, i may be way off here, but it simply goes against what i know, and against every instruction iv ever read on the back of a fert pack.
When my plants are really thirsty and I water them (with no ferts) they have a huge growth spurt. Water can be as much a limiting factor in growth as any ferilizer.
nzchili said:
Yup, you're way off.
Robisburning said:
I get small growth spurts when I'm just watering correctly.
I get huge ones when I add fertilizer and make it wait just a little bit longer for that water.
.
This should make sense to pepper growers because a proper wet/dry cycle is S.O.P. at the T.H.P.
If I have a plant that can take 4 teaspoons of my fert (per gallon of water) then I give it 4 using this method. If its a plant that can only take one teaspoon normally then it only gets one.
You still have to know your plants.
The proof is in the pudding. Have you been doing this watering technique for long?" Do you have some photos of the plants it has produced?
fertilizing strongly when a plant is stressing and flaccid( lol), is a terrible idea.
the plant will have a harder timer regaining turgidity when you do this... it will stress longer.
plants uptake charged nutrients by swapping charges... and they dont do this very well when stressed all the time.
stressing periodically can cause some changes in the roots, arguably beneficial, but thats about all.
imo the best way is a constant fert regime... watering multiple times a day, never soaking, but never allowing the soil to dry or the plants to stress. runoff should be maintained as well, so as to disallow buildup of hardness and what have you.
pepper plants i run at 2ec EVERY SINGLE WATERING, toms? a little higher.
runoff should never exceede 3-3.5 ec.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DQf91ZF5q8
the plant will have a harder timer regaining turgidity when you do this... it will stress longer.
plants uptake charged nutrients by swapping charges... and they dont do this very well when stressed all the time.
stressing periodically can cause some changes in the roots, arguably beneficial, but thats about all.
imo the best way is a constant fert regime... watering multiple times a day, never soaking, but never allowing the soil to dry or the plants to stress. runoff should be maintained as well, so as to disallow buildup of hardness and what have you.
pepper plants i run at 2ec EVERY SINGLE WATERING, toms? a little higher.
runoff should never exceede 3-3.5 ec.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DQf91ZF5q8
oh i remember when i was younger the circus would come to town , my uncle and dad worked for the city and we ( my cousins and i ) would have to shovel elephant dung into the truck and into their garden . best fert. around they claimed . 
miguelovic said:
My explanation is in the doing of it.
But no one has even asked for more details they just run up into a thread call me a trollish dick and then think they can peer pressure me into something because theyre too lazy to do even try it.
This is the secret to fertilization thread not the explanation to the secret of fertilization thread. Try it or dont. It's what I did...but no one was even generous enough to tell me. I overheard it casually mentioned by a commercial greenhouse grower to a customer who wasnt even paying attention. The words he used "I like to fertilize my plants when they're thirsty," just resonated. I knew what he meant immediately.
I've tested it for almost a solid year. It's the truth.
But people really should stop putting words into my fingers that I didnt type.
I listened to people say the roots would burn and I told other people they would if they fertilized during a dry period. I've repeated all the detailed bullshit I see in this thread word for word nearly.
So I'm sorry if I come off as a trollish dick to a couple guys who come off like trollish dicks. But the only way to stop this nonsense is for people to try it.
Instead of taking half a lifetime to learn because they'd rather quibble over details.
Correction, I'm an asshole prick.
Hey hey, there's a guy right there, one of the first replies, looking for an explanation/details. Don't get all bent out of a shape and butthurt so easily, the reactions here are as a result of your all around pissy attitude. Reap what you sow, and other cliche statements.
No ones putting words in your mouth, they're looking for more information, countering the theory or talking about elephant shit. The first two are a standard response, elephant shit is just interesting.
If you want people to try a new technique, a little information isn't out of order. A few pictures of healthy plants helps. I suppose we'll wait for the "Explanation" thread.
miguelovic said:
Hey hey, there's a guy right there, one of the first replies, looking for an explanation/details. Don't get all bent out of a shape and butthurt so easily, the reactions here are as a result of your all around pissy attitude. Reap what you sow, and other cliche statements.
No ones putting words in your mouth, they're looking for more information, countering the theory or talking about elephant shit. The first two are a standard response, elephant shit is just interesting.
If you want people to try a new technique, a little information isn't out of order. A few pictures of healthy plants helps. I suppose we'll wait for the "Explanation" thread.
I just want to learn and grow better plants 
I would like to understand more about "stand back and watch what osmotic pressure forcing water and nutrients into a plant will do"
[SIZE=9.5pt]"[/SIZE][SIZE=9.5pt]Effects of osmosis in plant cells[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Plant cells are enclosed by a rigid cell wall. When the plant cell is placed in a hypotonic solution , it takes up water by osmosis and starts to swell, but the cell wall prevents it from bursting. The plant cell is said to have become "turgid" i.e. swollen and hard. The pressure inside the cell rises until this internal pressure is equal to the pressure outside. This liquid or hydrostatic pressure called the turgor pressure prevents further net intake of water . [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Turgidity is very important to plants as it helps in the maintenance of rigidity and stability of plant tissue and as each cell exerts a turgor pressure on its neighbor adding up to plant tissue tension which allows the green parts of the plant to "stand up" into the sunlight.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]When a plant cell is placed in a hypertonic solution , the water from inside the cell[/SIZE][SIZE=11pt]�[/SIZE][SIZE=11pt]s cytoplasm diffuses out and the plant cell is said to have become "flaccid". If the plant cell is then observed under the microscopic, it will be noticed that the cytoplasm has shrunk and pulled away from the cell wall .This phenomenon is called plasmolysis. The process is reversed as soon as the cells are transferred into a hypotonic solution (deplasmolysis).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
When a plant cell is placed in an isotonic solution, a phenomenon called incipient plasmolysis is said to occur. "Incipient" means "about to be". Although the cell is not plasmolsysed, it is not turgid. When this happens the green parts of the plant droop and are unable to hold the leaves up into the sunlight."
info from; http://www.etomica.org/app/modules/sites/Osmosis_old/Background1.html
This backs up what i said. I bolded the bit that (i believe) applies. In reality if the concentration of salts is higher in the growing medium then it is in the plant it will pull the moisture out of the plant and into the soil - no matter if it the plant is thirsty or not. If a plant is flaccid/wilting/or very stressed, ideally you want to give it fresh water with minimal solutes in it for effective osmosis.
I do agree, it would be possible with a really weak concentration of ferts for the plant to still bring the water back in, but whats the point? Why roll the dice?
That's why you fertilize when the soil is already moist so you cant easily turn the growing medium into a hypertonic solution.
Many of us probably achieve what you say anyway, as many use a combination of granular ferts & liquid/concentrate ferts. The granular ferts will provide some added nutrients when watering when dry anyway. and save the concentrate for when the soil is already moist.
I would like to understand more about "stand back and watch what osmotic pressure forcing water and nutrients into a plant will do"
[SIZE=9.5pt]"[/SIZE][SIZE=9.5pt]Effects of osmosis in plant cells[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Plant cells are enclosed by a rigid cell wall. When the plant cell is placed in a hypotonic solution , it takes up water by osmosis and starts to swell, but the cell wall prevents it from bursting. The plant cell is said to have become "turgid" i.e. swollen and hard. The pressure inside the cell rises until this internal pressure is equal to the pressure outside. This liquid or hydrostatic pressure called the turgor pressure prevents further net intake of water . [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Turgidity is very important to plants as it helps in the maintenance of rigidity and stability of plant tissue and as each cell exerts a turgor pressure on its neighbor adding up to plant tissue tension which allows the green parts of the plant to "stand up" into the sunlight.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]When a plant cell is placed in a hypertonic solution , the water from inside the cell[/SIZE][SIZE=11pt]�[/SIZE][SIZE=11pt]s cytoplasm diffuses out and the plant cell is said to have become "flaccid". If the plant cell is then observed under the microscopic, it will be noticed that the cytoplasm has shrunk and pulled away from the cell wall .This phenomenon is called plasmolysis. The process is reversed as soon as the cells are transferred into a hypotonic solution (deplasmolysis).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
When a plant cell is placed in an isotonic solution, a phenomenon called incipient plasmolysis is said to occur. "Incipient" means "about to be". Although the cell is not plasmolsysed, it is not turgid. When this happens the green parts of the plant droop and are unable to hold the leaves up into the sunlight."
info from; http://www.etomica.org/app/modules/sites/Osmosis_old/Background1.html
This backs up what i said. I bolded the bit that (i believe) applies. In reality if the concentration of salts is higher in the growing medium then it is in the plant it will pull the moisture out of the plant and into the soil - no matter if it the plant is thirsty or not. If a plant is flaccid/wilting/or very stressed, ideally you want to give it fresh water with minimal solutes in it for effective osmosis.
I do agree, it would be possible with a really weak concentration of ferts for the plant to still bring the water back in, but whats the point? Why roll the dice?
That's why you fertilize when the soil is already moist so you cant easily turn the growing medium into a hypertonic solution.
Many of us probably achieve what you say anyway, as many use a combination of granular ferts & liquid/concentrate ferts. The granular ferts will provide some added nutrients when watering when dry anyway. and save the concentrate for when the soil is already moist.
I will not be trying this for a few reasons:
- It is late in the season and I don't want to lose an established plant
- The theory suggests it is risky to the palnt without offering a clear advantage
- From the above exchange the author doesn't seem like the sort of person to hold a civil discussion let alone offer actual advice
miguelovic said:
Uh yes they did.
So why dont you learn to read before you ask for answers to questions you dont even comprehend?
Robisburning said:
Not sure what youre talking about since peppers like it pretty dry in the first place.
nzchili said:
Obviously not.
My fertilizer of choice is Dyna-Gro's Foliage Pro. For "veg" and "flower". It's labeled 9-3-6. This itself is pretty significant if you know anything.
Now it has multiple instructions for how much to use, measured in teaspoons, per gallon of water. The scale is 1 to 4.
I have one strain that before I started doing it this way that I knew could take 4 tsp/gal. This strain can be wilting and still take the same 4 tsp dose. without so much as tip burn.
I have other strains that I cant give more than 1 tsp/gal without some signs of burn.
(note: the wilting was an accident, and not how i normally do things, I said "really thirsty". This translates to a lot thirstier than YOU think a plant can get before wilting)
As I already said, "know your plants".
No one said to let them wilt other than the people putting words into my mouth.
I may be wrong about why it works, I was guessing.
I'm not wrong that it works. So quibble over your definitions and your myopic views of how things work. I dont even care. The less people who can grow, the more money I make.
Now excuse me while I go tie up all my plants that have fallen over from being too heavy.
And ya'll act like the whole plant wilts at once instead of just a few leaves at the beginning.
Do more observing. Less reading.
Make sure you tards come back and let everyone know in this thread that its the truth when you finally listen.