seeds When Starting Seeds in Solo Cups..

PepperWeston · May 12, 2016

Being new to growing peppers I have been tossing this question around but I definitely need an opinion on this from someone who has been in this Business a little bit longer than me. How big should I allow my peppers to grow in my solo cups before transplanting? Maybe 6 - 10 inches I was thinking? Just another one of my new grower questions any feedback would be appreciated thanks guys!

cathee · May 12, 2016

Im pretty new to gardening too! but i look at roots rather than height as an indicator of when to transplant. I just pop the plant out of the cups to check. if the roots have grown enough to where its starting to grow around the base, then I transplant it so it doesn't get root bound.

CAPCOM · May 12, 2016

What size solo cups?

CAPCOM · May 12, 2016

This is typical for the 3 oz solo cups.

They move up to the 18 oz variety when the root system needs more room.

I move them to 1 gal pots as there last transplant before the 3 -7 gal final resting place.

I have grow plants larger than these pic in there respective containers. Generally it is best to provide them with leg room before they need it.

juanitos · May 12, 2016

6 nodes before transplanting is a decent rule.

Spicy Mushroom · May 12, 2016

CAPCOM said:
Generally it is best to provide them with leg room before they need it.

Can you elaborate on why that's best? Do you feel time spent stunted is ultimately detrimental towards future growth?

@PepperWeston

So I go from germination cell tray to red beer-pong cups to either raised beds or 4-6 gallon buckets.

From germination tray to red cups I generally wait for 2 sets of true leaves. From red cup to permanent home I basically just wait until warm weather dictates the hardening off process... *I start germination early*

Wimpy69 · May 12, 2016

From germ tray with two sets of leaves to 20oz cups, but I put several in clear 18 oz cups which will be double cupped in 20oz so I can view roots without having to pull to check root progress and soil moisture. For me I takes some guess work out of the picture.

solid7 · May 12, 2016

I guess I'm a little different than everyone who has spoken, thusfar.

I start all of my seeds in SOLO cups, and I keep them there until I can see roots coming out the holes in the bottom. Then, with no questions asked, I transplant them into their final container, which is usually 10 or 12.5 gallon. All of my plants are hardened off from about 3 weeks after they sprout, because I have a longer growing season than most. (no indoor stage) But still, I don't really understand the whole "musical cups" routine, but if there is something to it, please explain. I could understand if they need to be up potted because they are big enough to be root bound, but weather isn't prime for outdoors, and space is a concern. But short of that... ?

CAPCOM · May 12, 2016

Thought not clinically conclusive by any means, this year I have not delayed in moving plants to the next size containers and the results can only be described as catapulting growth thereafter. There are other equally considerable reasons I could be witnessing such growth rates, but I choose not to disclude the transplant procedure as one of them.
A waste of nutrients is a compelling reason I don't skip intermediate sizes and just go to the 7 gal pots. By keeping the containers minimal, I keep feeding constraints managable.

rghm1u20 · May 12, 2016

PepperWeston said:
Being new to growing peppers I have been tossing this question around but I definitely need an opinion on this from someone who has been in this Business a little bit longer than me. How big should I allow my peppers to grow in my solo cups before transplanting? Maybe 6 - 10 inches I was thinking? Just another one of my new grower questions any feedback would be appreciated thanks guys!

I think there is a quite important question: you mean before transplanting them WHERE? Are you a container grower? Garden grower?

solid7 · May 12, 2016

Thought not clinically conclusive by any means, this year I have not delayed in moving plants to the next size containers and the results can only be described as catapulting growth thereafter. There are other equally considerable reasons I could be witnessing such growth rates, but I choose not to disclude the transplant procedure as one of them.
A waste of nutrients is a compelling reason I don't skip intermediate sizes and just go to the 7 gal pots. By keeping the containers minimal, I keep feeding constraints managable.

I suppose that would be valid. I guess having that long growing season means that I've never felt compelled to try to accelerate the growth. But if time is precious, yeah, I'd seek any advantage.

Fair enough.

Now, I don't know what kind of growth rates you experience, so I can't compare - but here is an idea for you - one that I have used with great results in the past. Instead of solo cups, try using the hydroponic net pots. These work like miniature "air pots" I have some tomatillos going in them right now. I honestly don't use them all of the time, because I'm too lazy to go buy more, and wifey always has Solo cups around. But they make the same type of "air pruned" roots that a purpose built pot would make. I might hypothesize that the lateral root structure would be more efficient in transplant recovery than a circular wound root ball, but I've never done the side-by-side. Just an idea, if you're really into the idea of optimizing...

Peter S · May 12, 2016

I let mine go a lot longer than I probably should and they get root bound. My experience has been that as long as I loosen the roots really well when I plant them they do okay and grow fine. The main reason I do it like that is to save space and growing medium. It would be better though, at least for me, to start a little later. I just get grow happy way too early.

OCD Chilehead · May 12, 2016

I like my plants to get roots to the bottom as well. The quickest way for that, is to water from the bottom and let them stretch those roots.

solid7 · May 12, 2016

I like my plants to get roots to the bottom as well. The quickest way for that, is to water from the bottom and let them stretch those roots.

Ironically, that's exactly why I first started using the hydro pots. I used to bottom water them, also. But I wanted the side roots, also. Using coco or coco based medium helped me achieve all of the above.

santis00 · May 12, 2016

Peter S said:
I let mine go a lot longer than I probably should and they get root bound. My experience has been that as long as I loosen the roots really well when I plant them they do okay and grow fine. The main reason I do it like that is to save space and growing medium. It would be better though, at least for me, to start a little later. I just get grow happy way too early.

Having this issue this year. what is the easiest way to loosen the roots? I was thinking of dunking the bottom in water and just swirling til all the dirt came loose and then re-planting.

OCD Chilehead · May 12, 2016

solid7 said:
Ironically, that's exactly why I first started using the hydro pots. I used to bottom water them, also. But I wanted the side roots, also. Using coco or coco based medium helped me achieve all of the above.

Im dabbling in hydroponics with good success. I'm using a couple aerogarden units. One of them I hacked. I've started a lot of my plants in them. I let them go for 30 days and start another batch. Next year, I'll be using a aeroponics self build unit. I should be able to do a couple hundred plants at one time. Never thought of using net pots as a container. I suppose you would get the air pruning benifit as well. Thanks for the tip.

PepperWeston · May 12, 2016

Wow incredible feedback from everyone thank you guys so much!

solid7 · May 12, 2016

Im dabbling in hydroponics with good success. I'm using a couple aerogarden units. One of them I hacked. I've started a lot of my plants in them. I let them go for 30 days and start another batch. Next year, I'll be using a aeroponics self build unit. I should be able to do a couple hundred plants at one time. Never thought of using net pots as a container. I suppose you would get the air pruning benifit as well. Thanks for the tip.

You're welcome. By all means, if you try it, post up. I'm absolutely horrible about taking pictures, so I have nothing on offer on the subject, other than my word. (which obviously, is just that)

Peter S · May 12, 2016

santis00 said:
Having this issue this year. what is the easiest way to loosen the roots? I was thinking of dunking the bottom in water and just swirling til all the dirt came loose and then re-planting.

Yeah, that will help. You'll still want to break them apart some, so they're not stuck in the coiled up position. I spray mine really hard with the water hose to loosen them.

CAPCOM · May 12, 2016

solid7 said:
I suppose that would be valid. I guess having that long growing season means that I've never felt compelled to try to accelerate the growth. But if time is precious, yeah, I'd seek any advantage.

Fair enough.

Now, I don't know what kind of growth rates you experience, so I can't compare - but here is an idea for you - one that I have used with great results in the past. Instead of solo cups, try using the hydroponic net pots. These work like miniature "air pots" I have some tomatillos going in them right now. I honestly don't use them all of the time, because I'm too lazy to go buy more, and wifey always has Solo cups around. But they make the same type of "air pruned" roots that a purpose built pot would make. I might hypothesize that the lateral root structure would be more efficient in transplant recovery than a circular wound root ball, but I've never done the side-by-side. Just an idea, if you're really into the idea of optimizing...

Well, I went from 350+ plants last year to just over 100 this year. So I have room to upgrade my pots and still have room to walk in the room.I also have only been growing for (this makes 4) years. And in that time I have made all the mistakes and keep revising as I go grow. What I am doing now may get changed if I start my "17" grow in Sept this year( highly likely). I am also, I think, getting a handle on the nutrient line I am using and that may have made a huge impact on my plant size as well as not fighting aphids all winter long. I also use a lot of Mykos when transplanting and see a huge improvement on root growth and structure in a shorter period of time.
You will have to elaborate on just how you utilize the hydro baskets, I am not seeing a clear picture.
I theorize my plants will be hardened off in about a week and a half and will photo document the transplanting to the larger containers at that time.