Why are my Poblano flowers dropping off?

[Pepper_Jack]

I have two Poblano plants in the ground on the side of the garage. Maybe not enough sun and wind, but they seem pretty healthy. Only one of the pair has produced pods so far (2 pods). Lots of buds, and several flowers, but I've seen 3 - 5 flowers that have dropped off at the stem just when it seems their petals should fall off and give me pods. Here's a pic ...
 

 
I have added some organic fish meal fertilizer and periodic MiracleGro. Any ideas as to cause or cure for this situation?

 

[The_NorthEast_ChileMan]

Recent thread that might help?>Orange Rocoto won't set pods?

 

[Pepper_Jack]

Recent thread that might help?>Orange Rocoto won't set pods?

NE Chile Man: that thread talks about nighttime temps being too warm. I looked at one source that says that Poblanos like nighttime temp 60 - 75 degrees, which is what we have. The same article said to not add too much nitrogen ... I might be doing that.

 

[luvmesump3pp3rz]

if you have had temperatures of 90 and above during the day that can also cause flowers to die off and not produce pods. peppers seem to like it hot but not too hot. they like it cool overnight, maybe mid 60`s. i`m in the northeast and when we hit the mid 90`s my plants seem to stop setting pods. 

 

[The_NorthEast_ChileMan]

NE Chile Man: that thread talks about nighttime temps being too warm. I looked at one source that says that Poblanos like nighttime temp 60 - 75 degrees, which is what we have. The same article said to not add too much nitrogen ... I might be doing that.

 
I want to start this reply with a disclaimer. I often sign my info posts with YMMV.... Meaning it worked for me.... I saw this helpful article... It's what I've seen others have success with. etc. etc. etc. 

As you noted above, a source you looked at listed that temp range. My experience is 40 - 50°F overnight gave me the best results. As C. pubencens are commonly native to mountainous regions of South America I assume they are accustomed to lower temp growing conditions than those in the tropical heat of the lowlands.>cold tolerance capsicum pubescens
 
As far as nutes go, and nitrogen in particular, I use a balanced formula at half strength and less often than  manufactures recommendation. I'll let others chime in with your noted find of reduced N.
 
As always, YMMV!

 

[Pepper_Jack]

if you have had temperatures of 90 and above during the day that can also cause flowers to die off and not produce pods. peppers seem to like it hot but not too hot. they like it cool overnight, maybe mid 60`s. i`m in the northeast and when we hit the mid 90`s my plants seem to stop setting pods. 

 
Well, we've been solid in the mid-90s lately ... and upper 60's to low 70's in evening ... sounds like I'm in for tons of pods when Northern Virginia flips off the summer switch on Sep 1.

 

[Pepper_Jack]

 
I want to start this reply with a disclaimer. I often sign my info posts with YMMV.... Meaning it worked for me.... I saw this helpful article... It's what I've seen others have success with. etc. etc. etc. 

As you noted above, a source you looked at listed that temp range. My experience is 40 - 50°F overnight gave me the best results. As C. pubencens are commonly native to mountainous regions of South America I assume they are accustomed to lower temp growing conditions than those in the tropical heat of the lowlands.>cold tolerance capsicum pubescens
 
As far as nutes go, and nitrogen in particular, I use a balanced formula at half strength and less often than  manufactures recommendation. I'll let others chime in with your noted find of reduced N.
 
As always, YMMV!

 
"YMMV" ... love that! I can tell we're going to get along just fine, NECM!

 

[Inedible]

Neither thread - this or the link I followed - seems to have mentioned using epsom salt to increase the number of flowers. If a percentage of them are going to drop, and you can't find the cause, at least you can start with more flowers and hopefully get more pods.
 

 

[luvmesump3pp3rz]

 
Well, we've been solid in the mid-90s lately ... and upper 60's to low 70's in evening ... sounds like I'm in for tons of pods when Northern Virginia flips off the summer switch on Sep 1.

for me it seems to take the plants a couple of weeks for the plants to get back on track after the temp gets back into the 80`s. i imagine growers in texas and florida deal with this every season. i`m not growing poblanos this year but had them the last few years and got at least 6 or 8 pods per plant before summer high heat kicked in. than another batch after heat dropped to normal. good luck!

 

[acs1]

Some flower drop,,, pretty normal for this time of year heat, sun, humidity, in my neck of the woods... For me, half my baccatums can't make it thru the day with out heat wilt, 50% mid day shade is needed. My chinense. can take the sun better but still almost half the flowers drop after a while. And setting fruit is slow compared to Feb/march/april/may
 
Basically anything that stresses out the plant will cause flowers to drop.
 
All you can do is keep the basics right, don't over/under water, or over fertilize, keep pests under control. Eventually you'll get some pods...
 
Seems my Chile's switch to a almost 'maintenance slow grow mode' when the temps are very hot/humid. This is the third years I've noticed this in the doldrums of summer. At least thats how it is around here.
 
jmo

 

[solid7]

As someone who grew out an entire year with 5-1-1 Alaska fish, and tons of pods, I can't honestly believe that you're giving your plant too much nitrogen. (although it doesn't seem that you've stated how exactly you're feeding what you're feeding)  I live in a land of hot and humid, and I get lowest production in the month of August, specifically.  With all due respect, I don't think any amount of nutrients or epsom salt will get you past the reality of the conditions.  It's hot right now. Heat is a stressor.  If you have low wind, even more so.  
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People will throw out all kinds of advice for such a generic description as "plants losing flowers".  But the simple fact is, conditions aside, we don't know what your plants look like.  It's like trying to solve a crime, when the only evidence that's available, is the crime, itself.
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I have always found that with Baccatums and Annuums, in particular, we can tell a fair amount about the viability of the plant for pod production, by just the overall appearance.  Where I live, I have always had the most trouble with these varieties, in particular. 
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So what do your plants look like?

 

[willard3]

Flower drop probable causes:
 
1. Day temp too high >95F
2. Night temp too low <65F or too high >85F
3. Too much nitrogen fertilizer
4. Too much water
5. Low light levels (reduces fertility).
6. Very low humidity (reduces fertility)
7. Poor air circulation (air circulation contributes to pollination).
8. Lack of pollinating insects.
9. Size of pot
10. Too much mineral in feedwater.
11. Too much grower attention/anxiety.
 

 

[Sminky]

In The Uk here i found i had a lot of flower drop on my Poblanos until we had a heat wave (for here) at about 30-35c, after that and some manual 'tickling' even though they are outside, and they seem to be fine, and growing even in the current cold snap we have.
 
In short, flower drop with Poblanos is not so bad?

 

[Doelman]

Often the early flowers will drop off, can't do anything about it.  The weather can make them drop off, can't do anything about it.  Are the plants healthy?  Are they growing?  If so, don't change a damn thing and just keep going.  If you try to force a healthy plant to flower/fruit, chances are you'll simply end up with an unhealthy plant that still wont flower or fruit.

 

[The_NorthEast_ChileMan]

Often the early flowers will drop off, can't do anything about it.  The weather can make them drop off, can't do anything about it.  Are the plants healthy?  Are they growing?  If so, don't change a damn thing and just keep going.  If you try to force a healthy plant to flower/fruit, chances are you'll simply end up with an unhealthy plant that still wont flower or fruit.

 
Exactly! We so often read of members recommending or using high P nutes to fix this (Cue solid7!) when there is nothing to fix.

 

[acs1]

 
Exactly! We so often read of members recommending or using high P nutes to fix this (Cue solid7!) when there is nothing to fix.

 

So, if if ain't broke, don't fix it...
 
Great advice, for most things in life also...

 

[solid7]

Exactly! We so often read of members recommending or using high P nutes to fix this (Cue solid7!) when there is nothing to fix.

And I didn't think anyone paid attention to me
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Healthy growth is as good of an indicator as you could ever ask for. No gimmicks. Just let the plant be, and do what it does.

 

[ShowMeDaSauce]

Its funny, if i have a year when many plants are struggling to hold a bloom or pod......My jalapenos are cranking them out like mad. This year has been milder/wetter and its just the reverse. All my chinense are doing better than my jalas but i got a cayenne cranking out pods in full sun all day.
 
Some micros might help a little with heat stress.

 

[solid7]

Some micros might help a little with heat stress.

Actually, it's not good to play with individual elements. Especially when others aren't quantified.  At best, it's a crapshoot and a waste of money, at worst, you could create some other imbalance.
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For heat stress, you can't go wrong with compost. Humic and Fulvic acids are your go-to for that problem.

 

[ShowMeDaSauce]

A simple mix of crab shell and kelp meal provides a large spectrum of nutrients. Some such as chitosan are believed to help with plant stress related issues.