beer ASK WHEEBZ

i'll try to work extra tonight to free up some weekend and you should come drink your beer, fucker ...

i have our christmas party tomorrow night, but otherwise i'll be around (work from home) and planned to drink beer and watch the Gators/Bama at 4 Sat, and the Bucs at 1 on Sun ...

oh, and i have like a dozen BCS and a half dozen BCB ...
 
i lost half a day yesterday to a little problem ...

22890352673_10dd47b1c9_b.jpg


turns out granite dust seizes fans and nullifies heatsinks, lol ...

who knew?!??!

lol.

23435077081_c6fe217821_b.jpg
 
Wheebz,
 
I found this recipe, which is supposedly a clone for 10Fidy.  I don't really care about it being a clone, but if it's close that would be great.  Looking at this recipe though, does this even look like a reasonable Imp stout?
 
The 2 row seems pretty low in comparison to everything else.
 
12 lbs 13.8 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 55.4 %
3 lbs 10.2 oz Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 2 15.7 %
1 lbs 15.4 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 3 8.4 %
1 lbs 10.9 oz British Crystal 53L (55.0 SRM) Grain 4 7.2 %
1 lbs 10.7 oz Chocolate Malt (450.0 SRM) Grain 5 7.2 %
1 lbs 6.4 oz Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM) Grain 6 6.0 %
1.12 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 80.0 min Hop 7 25.3 IBUs
1.12 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 25.0 min Hop 8 16.7 IBUs
1.12 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 9 8.7 IBUs
1.0 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [124.21 ml] Yeast
 
I would get rid of that last addition of CTZ, but yea, the munich makes up for the other percent of the 2 row that you would normally see
 
70% base malt for a RIS is about right
 
Do you know anything in particular about Simpson's Roasted Barley/Black Patent? Why one would use it for a big stout, in particular? ... or ... what qualities it has versus Weyermann, Munton's etc? ...
 
Black patent/roasted barley from every maltster is going to end up the same at the end of the day. You won't notice a difference in burnt malt like that.
 
ok, cool ... that makes sense ...
i have some really old (mfg date ~1yr) vials and s/p's of yeast ...

so ...

i'm going to do some one gal experiments this wknd if poss using those (sans starter) at pkg/gal pitching rate and assume it'll pan out ...

need to use them up, and figure it best to try to learn a little about them, at least, rather than waste 'em ...

:shrug:
 
How to make shit beer


No doubt, but I have 3-4 cans of LME and a few bags of DME that are getting old, mostly stuff that came in kits that I never brewed =)
 
dragonsfire said:
 
I like to take a Can of Air to the Board now and then :)
Click to expand...
 
Yeah, I used two cans ...
 
=)
wheebz said:
Use the dme for starters
Click to expand...
 
Yeah, I can do that too ...
 
I figure I can do some simple stuff into the gallon jugs just to try some stuff, and gleam some knowledge from the near-expiry ingredients ...
 
dragonsfire said:
 
I like to take a Can of Air to the Board now and then :)
Click to expand...
 
 
grantmichaels said:
 
Yeah, I used two cans ...
 
 
Click to expand...
 
As a former hardware guy I can only say,
 
NO!!!!!!!!!
 
 
Don't use canned air on your computer. It's expensive and not as good at cleaning as you might think. You want to use a vacuum cleaner with one of the computer kits that have brushes and such. The brushes really get the dust build up free of the components and if it's really stuck on there good, then you can hit it with a blast of air aiming into the vacuum cleaner tip to help free it up.
 
The only think I'll use canned air alone, and I don't use actual canned air but I have a compressor with special tips for that that actually puts our more air than the canned air does. Here's a pic of what I use:
 
A542D436-B3BB-4E00-A52E-F4261148F9A9_zpsv8sp3rhy.jpg

 
Ok, tech rant over, back to the beer!
 
Cheers!
 
Yeah, as an ex-hardware guy, I realize the compressed air is cold and not all that awesome for the chips and/or helps to de-laminate the green-board ...
 
But for a work computer ...
 
=)
 
ASK WHEEBZ -
 
So, I'm realizing just how fleeting the freshly-dry-hopped IPA flavors are ...
 
I'm seeing why Jamil always says he makes big batches of the big malty beers, his RIS, his B/W etc, and smaller batches of the hoppy beers ...
 
My Eis-Imperial has half the perceived Citra only like 2-3 weeks later ... while still good, it's more Columbus-y and less Citra-y in a matter of only weeks ...
 
I can imagine, now, making 12 gallons of a base recipe for a big stout outside in the big kettle, and splitting down into three 4 gallon batches to ferment in 5 gallon corny's with a drop of fermcap, and running different yeast and/or oaking etc ...
 
Yet, not doing that for IPA's ... doing those in the 24 qt system, and more frequently ...
 
It causes me to ask, what happens if you wait two weeks to dry-hop? ... do you postpone the window? ... if I split a batch of IPA, and stagger the dry-hopping + carbonation, can I have a overlap in peak hoppiness for the splits? ...
 
And, I also had one quick question about gypsum and water chemistry ...
 
There's some sentiment out there - however myopic this model might be - that some additional gypsum is good for uber-hoppy IPA's ...
 
Is this for a higher peak of perceived hoppiness, or greater longevity of hoppy flavor? ...
 
Thanks, man =)
 
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