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video Superhots Grafted Together! Success ** VIDEO ADDED IN UPDATED POST!**

I am setting out on a quest to make a plant that produces a bunch of different superhot varieties that I like.

Right now I am working with 2 plants. A douglah and a yellow 7 because I like oth of those. I took the tops off of each and put them on the other. I am HOPING to have the main stem/trunk grow the original plant's branches and pods and the graft up grow the new plant.

I wrapped the graft snuggly in saran wrap, gave a good watering, and put them in 1gal ziplock bags with a small 1-2'' opening on top for gas exchange. They are uner lights and in 4'' pots. If the grafts take I will move them to bigger pots. I trimmed most of the bigger leaves off of the scion (top part of the graft) to prevent dehydrating, but left on some of the smaller ones so I can use them as an indicator of the graft sealing and growth beginning.

These are them as of 9/16/12 (the label has the name of the grafted part on top of the main plant name):

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Immensely clever! I'm following this to see how it turns out. Did you do a straight graft or did you pack the "splice" with NAA and/or coir or peat mix?
Watch out for molds under the sran wrap - when I did this with shrubs years ago I used a couple winds of burlap and moistened them periodically. Really curious to see if this works. I'll cross my fingers for the next few weeks to see if it "takes". If it does work I am so trying this over the winter.

Brilliant experiment!
 
I did something similar earlier... I did a series of experiments to determine the best graft method...

its all in my glog :)

In fact I'm working on a cocktail plant as we speak... Primo, Barrackapore, douglah, 7pot sr, jonah, and Orange Manzano (to try a graft across c. species).

I had horrible luck with your method... Shane (STC2098348029348023948023948203948029348) had bad luck with it as well...

I grafted a yellow annuum bonnet, onto a quite mild cayenne type. Using the mentor graft method, I made a pocket graft, and the whole thing was a success.

It took about a month for the graft to heal, and I left the tape (instead of saran) on for a couple of months... The scion doesn't grow as vigorously as the host. Too much light too early and it will die, too little light for too long will kill it, the graft site becoming too wet, or too dry can cause problems and/or death.

Its an interesting process especially when non-Mendelian things happen... Just read everything you can get your hands on (if you don't have experience in this area already), keep your tools clean, and give it little to no light for a month.

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Oh really? I'll take it out of the light shelf then.

I wanted to graft different plants onto the main stem all the way up so new branches from each variety can grow instead of I ly having one or two branches of each variety.

I wish you could Graft them in a way that would make them grow both branch types as if it were one plant with two pods. Because if you snap a branch then it gets rid of that variety which sucks lol.

Also do you have a link for the method you used with the mentor pocket graft?
 
not to be snarky, but I would have to do the same thing you would as long as its been, mentor grafting is a method for trying to get genetic material to pass from scion to host, and vice versa.

so the best link I can offer is google.com :P

http://thehotpepper.com/topic/28335-grafting-for-hot-peppers/page__hl__graft#entry570394

The last link is a link to a thread here on THP...
 
I think I see some growth but I'm not gonna fiddle with the wrapping because I did with one of my Thai/bhut branch gratings two days ago an it was still not healed so I prob ruined that one lol. But that one doesn't matter.
This is the Plant on the right in the first pic, with the yellow 7 on the Douglah base.
Each pic was at least a day apart. The first pic was right after the grafting. Last pic was this morning.


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Update 9/21/12:

There was some fungus on the soil so I took them out of their bags, sprayed them with h202 (hydrogen peroxide,) uprooted them, broke off the top layer of soil, and repotted them into bigger pots. I then carefully unwrapped them without moving the wouded point at all and dabbed off the excess erxide that got in, and then dabbed them with a clean papertowel with peroxide on it. I was very happy to find that the leaf/branch buds on the stock plant of both of these were growing under the wrapping which means if they remain successful, I will get both types of branches and pepeprs on each plant which was my goal! I then carefully rewrapped them leaving out one leaf bud on on plant and a couple on the second so they could grow uninhibited by the wrapping. I will probably check on them again in a week or so depending on their growth.
They are now covered with gallon ziplock bags not sealed on the bottom, and there are a bunch of holes poked in the upper part of the bag to keep it less humid. They are also under my 18/6photo pd. 6400k t5 high output lights. Not too close though. That should keep them warm in my basement instead of in my room, and give them some light since their new leaves were yellowing.

BOth grafts looked great, and the second one appears to have some callousing going on. I would assume they both do because they are both growing both above and below the graft point, but the second one was visible.

Now for the fun part. The Pictures!

Unwrapped (douglah stock yellow 7 added scion)
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Rewrapped (not the bud on the left I wrapped around so it would stick out and grow comfortably.
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Unwrapped (yellow 7 stock douglah added scion / note the growth in the wound that appears to be healing callous)
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Rewrapped (note the couple buds I wrapped around to allow growth)
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Both bagged with holes and under lights.
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oh yes, a grafting thread.lets blow this thing up.

is anyone grafting for just plain vigor and disease resistance??

thats been my main motivation for grafting. so far ive done about 33 grafts, and only one has succeed. all this failure has forced me to go DEEP ... im in for like 50 bucks worth of crap. i bought some safety razors... grafting tube clips, dental rubber bands... parafilm... very expensive rootstock seeds etc etc.

my first round of grafts were half ass'd apical wedges, using saran cling wrap... which is actually awesome for grafting, as its porous at a microscopic scale just like parafilm... however they all failed because the unions separated and the scions then dessicated. the problem was that its so hard to wrap the scion and rootstock while keeping the union pressed together. once the scion is wraped you can hold the union up to a strong light source to see if there is a gap... but not always.

anyway the next round i tried holding them together with dental rubber bands, then warping them very carefully with with extremely thin parafilm...

heres a shot.
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i think this one is a bad example, its poorly matched size wise, but for some reason its the only photo i have. this is before the para film obviously.

this time around, about 60% of the unions seemed to "stick" however, about all of the plants died from some sort of disease... all of the plants with good unions showed 0 root growth, and eventually fell over at about 6 days, the roots had been destroyed.
when i unwrapped the union to check it out... the union was intact, and would generally stick together, when i pulled them apart occasionally i could feel a little snap, like they has just barley begun to heal... im hoping side grafting next time gives better success.better technique and sanitation is also in order obviously.

im going to stagger the plantings of the tomato root stocks also... every other day ill pop seeds for like a week i think. hopefully i get more matching stems next time around.


ultimately i want to be grafting at least one of every plant i grow to a maxi fort tomato rootstock for comparison.
the maxifort is easily the most vigorous plant i have personally grown. it EASILY grows 2x as fast as my throw away practice home depot seeds(super 100 hyb), ive even seen some of the seeds pop in like 8 hours. they are mad expensive tho, like 50 cents pop.

im suprised no one here is grafting for reasons beyond curiosity. its a fairly common practice in commercial greenhouses.

http://www.jyi.org/research/re.php?id=3661
 
Has anybody tried superglue to hold a graft on? It works for animal flesh, why not plants?

Obviously don't separate them completely with a layer of superglue, but I'd think it would have potential.
 
the thing is itds alot of work and you can lose a lot of plants experimenting.. I am trying to make multivarieties as opposed to just using different rootstock like most people do.

Thats why i left buds on the stcok plant. Also, I like that peppers are very drought hardy. they can wilt completely and come back in hours with a good soaking. So i like those roots.

I dont know if the first graft is healing or not, but the second one appears to have calloused quite a bit. The first one should be bonded because the scion is growing leaves but i dont see callous besides that thing in the pic right by the scion leaf on the left in the firstpic in the update, but I dont know what that is because i didnt see it when i was working with it. Mustve looked past it.


And about the superglue thing, I was considering it for sealing the outsides edges and not getting much if any in the wounds but i didnt want to ruin these two plants. i dont know how the checmials would react. I would try that on something less imprtant like basil..

I want to unwrap these again in a week for pics and observation but I dont wanna move them and ruin their bonds. I think I will do it anyway though like i did this time. Very carefully and slowly. And they should only be stronger then anyway. I mainly want to see if the first one gets all filled with callous. The more i look at that pic the more it looks lie there is some callous there already but idk. It also kkinda looks liek some of the stock selaed up by itself.. ill see.
 
i guess i deleted the part of my post talking about superglue. i actually bought a super glue kit, im going to give that a shot to. its my understanding that as long as you dont contaminate the cambium with the glue, it will not kill the plant. the question is how best to apply it... and what consistency is best. thats why i bought a kit with like 3 different glues and applicator brushes etc.

the thing is itds alot of work and you can lose a lot of plants experimenting.. I am trying to make multivarieties as opposed to just using different rootstock like most people do.

100% true, im not going to try grafting onto maxi-fort again untill im way more competent. im just using home depot seeds from now on. a buck 60 for like 50 seeds is all im risking now.

id be curious to see a few chinense scions grafted to a really nice looking frutenses specimen. i had a tobasco plant that had this amazing looking 18" tall 3/4" thick stem, it grew just like a tree, i really liked that look.
 
I would like to get some grafting plasitc clips so I can see the progress of the grafts without wrapping them and not knowing whats going on under the bandages, but I guess by unwrapping these weekly and inspecting them till they are ready to be treated like normal plants, I will have a general idea of what is happening and not need to see it myself...

Queequeg, what plants are you trying to graft? Maybe we can work together on something soon since Im ordering lights very soon to grow all my peppers and grafted things under.

I'm going about this slightly unorthodoxed by unwrapping and rewarpping, and by leaving buds on the stock plant and leaving those unwrapped to grow and such because I have different goals. I want multivariety plants since I grow in pots anyeway, i dont need roots that can handle groudn soil and things in it. I can monitor prett y well what is going on..
 
once i establish a good reliable technique id like to graft at least one of every plant that i grow in a season. id like to be able to observe side by side how the grafted plants perform with a really vigorous rootstock. i suspect that many of the varieties could benefit greatly. im also interested to see if a good rootstock effects their performance in hot weather or cold weather.

i know that many greenhouses use the maxifort rootstock to push normally unproductive disease prone heirloom types into a much more productive and healthy plant. id be happy to work with you anyway we can. maby we can trade tools seeds etc. like ive said i have invested a grip so far. i have some 2mm silicone clips...1/8" rubber bands and some larger ones that are probably not useful for anything... i have some 3-4mm plastic spring loaded clips ordered from china, hopeing they are going to be usefull for approach grafting. i also have a roll of parafilm M.

fwiw i have my misgivings about para film, i can totally see how it would be useful for larger grafts, but for the small herbaceous grafts im doing, its just to hard to work with... its not very sticky at all, so its a pain in the ass to get the union wrapped without disturbing the union. i want to try an actual sticky tape like a micropore type medical tape. i think micro pore "breaths" alot like parafilm M and that seran wrap cling film.
problem is that micropore is going to be a pita to see through.
 
I grafted a couple of plants together... For less practical, more esoteric reasons... The graft took, and the plant is growing well, though, the scion is less vigorous than the host.

I'm embarking on a new project now to graft 8 varieties onto the same host all in one shot...

It feels ambitious.... But we'll see how it goes.

Both the last graft, and the current one are in my glog for anyone interested.

Ken

My initial graft was a annuum scotch bonnet, onto a cayenne, using the mentor graft method... The pods that grew are completely mild, and have the length of a cayenne, with ribs like a bonnet.
 
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