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Home Made Hoop Houses...What Do You Have?

Roguejim

Roguejim

I'm looking ahead to next season, and am considering building a hoop house, one that can be broken down easily, too. I'm talking "simple design". I've seen a few videos on youtube, and am wondering if anyone here has built one? Once the last frost has passed, I'll remove the plants and replant in the ground. So, I guess I will use the hoop house to get them outside earlier, and extend the season for any potted plants.

One question I have is what to do with both ends of the hoop house. I've seen some folks just pull the extra plastic sheeting together and clamp it shut. What about ventilation? Thanks.
 
I did the hoophouse thing last year, and will again this year. I don't just set it up for potted plants though... I plant directly in the ground with the hoophouse erected up around the plants... http://thehotpepper.com/topic/28300-stickmans-2012-gochu-pepper-glog/page__st__80#entry604650 My method is:

1) prep the soil by spading in humus and/or compost and amendments

2) raking out the soil, smooth and even.

3) put down black plastic mulch and firmly pin it down with sod staples. Make sure there is good contact between mulch and soil. The sun hitting the mulch makes heat, the soil absorbs the heat; and radiates it after the sun goes down.

4) punch holes in the black plastic and plant in the ground through the holes.

5) make a framework of arches by burying the ends of a 10 foot piece of half inch PVC pipe a food deep and 4 feet apart. Space the arches 2 feet apart. The framework will be about waist high.

6) cover the framework with a piece of 10 foot wide 4 mil sheet poly. Leave enough extra at each end to gather together and weight down with a heavy stone. Since the ends of the PVC pipes are buried a foot down, there will be a foot of extra poly sheeting on either side of the arches. Weight with heavy stones so the wind can't get underneath and blow the poly sheet off.

The hoophouse will trap the warmth radiated by the soil at night and keep the plants inside from freezing. The thing is, that you'll have to open the ends of the tunnel to let out excess heat on sunny days, and button up a couple hours before sundown to begin trapping the heat before it gets cold... so you have to be attentive if using this method. Poly sheeting sheds the rain, so you'll have to water the plants underneath. The good part is that it's a cheap and effective system that stows compactly from one year to the next.
 
Hoop-Houses are cheap but the plastic may need to be replaced annually or patched you should look into raised beds or smaller hoops inside your hoop-house. Look into automatic vent arms+ drip irrigation and think about a heater. Look for Mycorrhizae + Kelp+ Potash (supremegrowers).
 
TylerInNiagara said:
Hoop-Houses are cheap but the plastic may need to be replaced annually or patched you should look into raised beds or smaller hoops inside your hoop-house. Look into automatic vent arms+ drip irrigation and think about a heater. Look for Mycorrhizae + Kelp+ Potash (supremegrowers).
Click to expand...
It's true... poly sheeting isn't UV stabilized, but since I only use it for about 4 or 5 weeks it lasts for about 3 seasons. You could get greenhouse film that is stabilized, but it's much more expensive. http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7709-tufflite-nursery-clear-greenhouse-film-10-x-100-roll.aspx
 
I still recommend automating the watering, heating and cooling you still need to check but if your sick, injured, out of town it can save your butt.
 
i did a ghetto one with 2x2's and simply burned it after i was done with it. worked very well. took about 5 hours total to build, and like hour and half to break down.
took multiple weekends to burn it all in a small fire pit tho.

veltilation was done with a gable vent axial fan i bought, heating was done with an oil filled radiator. gable vent was controlled with a " duo stat".

i really only needed the automation for like 2 weeks max. most of the time i t was all shut off and the sides rolled up.
 
queequeg152 said:
i did a ghetto one with 2x2's and simply burned it after i was done with it. worked very well. took about 5 hours total to build, and like hour and half to break down.
took multiple weekends to burn it all in a small fire pit tho.

veltilation was done with a gable vent axial fan i bought, heating was done with an oil filled radiator. gable vent was controlled with a " duo stat".

i really only needed the automation for like 2 weeks max. most of the time i t was all shut off and the sides rolled up.
Click to expand...

Well if you want to keep bugs out....and not have pests come fall/winter I would keep it sealed up use vents and screens and shade clothes. Or fumosorosea Apopka 97 http://thehotpepper.com/topic/38157-interesting-things/ unless you don't mind pesticides.
 
insect pressure is at its lowest here in the winter, and i dont mind spraying for them regardless. although i don't recall having to spray during the winter.
 
queequeg152 said:
insect pressure is at its lowest here in the winter, and i dont mind spraying for them regardless. although i don't recall having to spray during the winter.
Click to expand...

Yes outside but if you get an infestation in the summer and close up the greenhouse to continue growing your ORGANIC peppers in the fall/winter you will have problems.
 
Greenhouse Podcasts

Episode #22: Microintensive Hoophouse Gardening with Chuck O’Herron-Alex
http://agroinnovatio...hoophouse/feed/
http://blogs.cornell...tunnel-podcast/
http://www.thesurviv...-greenhouse-guy
http://www.thesurviv...nt-microclimate
http://www.thesurviv...struction-usage
http://www.podfeed.net/tags/greenhouse
http://borntofarm.com/gyg-084-hoop-houses-low-tunnels-greenhouses-what-are-they/


Greenhouse maintenance

http://www.bbc.co.uk...enhouses1.shtml

The greenhouse gardener

By Anne Swithinbank
http://books.google....ved=0CFMQ6AEwBA

Hot water distribution pipes along the walls, and smaller tubes to warm the benches.
http://www.builditso...oHS/ChicoHS.htm

Polly Tunnels a permanent structure?
http://www.greenhous...4/files/10.html

Canada Mar/Apr2013 page 41

http://www.maximumyi.../maxyieldissues
 
Worst Wildlife Disease Outbreak in North America Afflicts Bats, Could Cost Agriculture up to $53 Billion

“A single bat can eat thousands of insects in one night, which benefits people, agriculture and forestry,” the CBD reports. “A recent study found that the value of bats’ pest-control services in the United States ranges from $3.7 billion to $53 billion per year.”
http://inhabitat.com...on/#more-500335
 
Stickman's idea is by far the least expensive and the simplest to build. And, it would do a perfect job of protecting your plants with a little effort. But, if you need more protection or convenience, there are some not-so-expensive things you can do.

Those vent arms that open and close without electricity is the grits! Down here in SE Louisiana the daytime temps, even during winter, can rise to a point where it would boil your plants in a plastic greenhouse without ventilation. Those arms that use expanding fluid to open and close your vents automatically, are a plant-saver. They can also be rigged to open and close the door to a greenhouse. The issue with that is the possibility of the wind catching that open door and pulling the whole greenhouse all catta-whampus!

I would use a power-driven fan at the ridge vent to move some air when the temps get too high. There are many benefits for having air circulation but, in this case, having only the vents opened would probably not be enough to cool down the greenhouse enough on the warmest winter days here in SE Louisiana.

The "egg incubator" folks use thermostats that are very inexpensive and would do a great job of starting and stopping a 120vac fan.

I would make only one rigid "end" because of the need for a door of some type. The other "end" I would just fold-n-tape it shut. You could build your "rigid" end out of whatever water-resistant material you want. Treated plywood, fiberglass panels, or even plastic film attached to a sturdier framework of lumber or PVC pipe would all work fine. The end would not be as easily stored-away as the PVC frame and the film but, having a nice strong door to enter and exit would surely be more convenient.
 
TylerInNiagara said:
Greenhouse Podcasts

Episode #22: Microintensive Hoophouse Gardening with Chuck O’Herron-Alex
http://agroinnovatio...hoophouse/feed/
http://blogs.cornell...tunnel-podcast/
http://www.thesurviv...-greenhouse-guy
http://www.thesurviv...nt-microclimate
http://www.thesurviv...struction-usage
http://www.podfeed.net/tags/greenhouse
http://borntofarm.co...-what-are-they/


Greenhouse maintenance

http://www.bbc.co.uk...enhouses1.shtml

The greenhouse gardener

By Anne Swithinbank
http://books.google....ved=0CFMQ6AEwBA

Hot water distribution pipes along the walls, and smaller tubes to warm the benches.
http://www.builditso...oHS/ChicoHS.htm

Polly Tunnels a permanent structure?
http://www.greenhous...4/files/10.html

Canada Mar/Apr2013 page 41

http://www.maximumyi.../maxyieldissues
Click to expand...

too drunk to actually read this, but im sure there is something good in there... lmao k+
 
25m DIY Micro Irrigation Drip System Plant garden Vegetable Watering Hose Kit

US $26.69
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/260857381577?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Ventmate QH200 Automatic Greenhouse Window Opener

US $21.00 comes up to about $31
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ventmate-QH200-Automatic-Greenhouse-Window-Opener?item=221052586398&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&
_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6988865924659083921

As Bigoledude said you can use used materials or contact local companies greenhouse supply places and try to get used materials/extra materials etc and save some money or look on ebay.
 
My greenhouse watering system


10 Tips from a Farm you can Use in Your Vegetable Garden
Beneficial Bacteria (Compost Tea) or use Supreme Growers ;) for peppers you want potash (Supreme Growers Bud Charger)

RE: 6 mil construction grade clear plastic
clip this post email this post what is this?
see most clipped and recent clippings Don't use it. If you want to know what happens to it after a few months. Go buy a roll, unroll it in the front yard and run over it with the lawn mower until it is all chopped up. Yes it is cheaper than greenhouse grade plastic, but that is the only plus side. After 3-4 months it starts to get brittle and breaks. It rips easy and has to be replaced. It doesn't have the UV protection that greenhouse grade plastic does. Also, the greenhouse plastic has a 4 year minimum life span. Also it resists ripping. The stuff is tuff! But this is only my experience. You do the math, replace your plastic every year or every 4 years?

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/strucs/msg1113534713621.html
 
This is a cold frame I designed some years ago and it worked great. I'm not sure if you're looking for a walk in a or something like this.

I'm having trouble posting a pic of my design but I'll get it here ASAP.

Here's a simplistic diagram.


 
GregK said:
This is a cold frame I designed some years ago and it worked great. I'm not sure if you're looking for a walk in a or something like this.

I'm having trouble posting a pic of my design but I'll get it here ASAP.

Here's a simplistic diagram.


Click to expand...

Well I would add another section on the front so you can walk in close the first door open the second door keep the cold air out.
 
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