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The 11th Annual Hot Pepper Awards - WINNERS ANNOUNCED!

MNXR250R

Member Since 27 Jul 2017
Offline Last Active Jun 18 2018 08:20 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: I Started My Peppers!

07 April 2018 - 09:25 PM

If you take your Jalapenos from an indoor grow light and force them into "full sunlight", they can be damaged from "sunburn".  The sun can be  much more intense than indoor grow lights so you should follow a "hardening off" procedure. Plus, the change in temperature/humidity from the grow room to the outdoors can be significant... so look up "hardening off".

 

As for the roots, what I say is "Life will find a way" !  (that was from Jurassic Park...Jeff Goldbloom). You can have a pretty crappy start to plants and they will find a way to survive as long as they have the correct environment to survive. Water, Nutes and Sunlight.

 

I never prune my plants (personal choice) unless I am growing indoors and the plants get too big for the tent that I am growing them in. Let them grow however you like. If your shooting for maximal yield then maybe you could play around with pruning. Too much trouble for me.  I just want peppers !!

 

Happy Growing,

 

Jeff


In Topic: I Started My Peppers!

05 April 2018 - 07:32 PM

Put more light on the leggy plants.  Wind doesn't make a plant leggy unless the wind is strong enough to blow away the light  :P .

 

You can't prune those seedlings.  There is nothing to prune.  Maybe I misinterpreted what you meant.

 

You can bury the stems after a transplant but from what I see in the pictures, I wouldn't worry about it too much at this point.  If you keep a breeze blowing on the plants they will get stronger... if given more light.

 

Happy Growing,

 

Jeff


In Topic: Planning my first indoor grow, DWC, limited space - opinions please

01 April 2018 - 04:20 PM

clueless,  I use GH CalMag.  I suppose you could use Epsom Salt for magnesium, but you'd still need to supplement calcium somehow.  Just makes more senses to me to use CalMag and have it done in one shot.

 

I've used cheepo pH meters and they have worked out just fine. I've ruined a couple of those pH meters by letting them dry out between uses.  Best that you keep them wet.  Better still if keep them wet in a "reference" solution (used for calibrating the meter).

 

I can't comment on the dimmer. Personally I'd just run full power once the plants emerge. You can move the lights up away from the plants if you're concerned about light intensity. I think the whole grow/bloom control on a light is marketed to weed growers.  I have the VIPARSPECTRA PAR700 and turn everything up to "11". Taking care of the plants is enough to keep me busy so I don't need the extra fuss of trying to figure out dimmers/RED/BLUE cycles.

 

Last thing here is Rockwool cubes. They drain well so don't be concerned about over-watering. You really can't over-water them. I can tell you that if your humidity is very low, those cubes can dry out really fast !!  Keep them watered.

 

Happy Growing !!

 

Jeff

 

 

 

 


In Topic: Planning my first indoor grow, DWC, limited space - opinions please

30 March 2018 - 12:51 AM

Clueless....  I'll take a stab at this one.

 

First off... you'll need a pH meter and a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter.  Can't really control the grow without these tools.

 

Next.... the light may or may not be enough. No way to tell unless you specify the exact light that you are using. The "watts" don't really mean anything. Watts are just a measure of the amount of power it uses. The light spectra is more important. And even if do you tell us what light you are using.... that doesn't mean that anyone has had experience with it.  You may be in the realm of "experimentation" (very cool).

 

The volumes that you specified should be fine. Note however, the less volume that you have in a system will require that you watch for changes more often. Like the pH shift could be drastic over a 24 hour period. Not saying it will....but

 

Air stones.  One per bucket should be enough. You just need to keep the nutes moving around inside of the buckets. It aerates the solution and keeps the surface slime inside the buckets from building up.

 

The number of plants you want to grow will really depend on the lighting and the nutes.  In you case (4) I would just go for it. If the light you have isn't enough, you'll see that fairly early in the grow. You can always add another light.

 

For the nutes.  This is where you'll have to be vigilant and attentive.  It will depend a lot on what water you plan on using. You can use TAP water, RO (reverse osmosis)water, distilled water or any combination of those types of water.  Fill your hydro system with water, add nutes and grow ! Just be careful of the ph.

 

You can read further below if you're interested in more specific direction. Otherwise, add the nutes to your system as recommended by the manufacturer of the nutes your purchase. One thing that you absolutely have to be concerned with is the pH of the nutrient solution. No way to get around this. If your pH is out of range, the nutes in the solution will be unavailable to your plants. Keep the pH in the range of 5.5 to 6.5 and all will be well.

 

So here is more information>>

 

IF... you are using any amount of TAP water, use your (new) pH meter and check the pH after you fill your system with water.  Add either ph UP or ph DOWN (buy these products) to get to a neutral pH of 7.0. Then use your TDS meter to get a base measurement of how many dissolved solids are in your system. This number will be in measured "ppm" (Parts Per Million). Take note of this number as it will be very useful in the future. (NOTE... TAP water can have a lot of dissolved minerals that will affect your TDS readings, so knowing these values will allow you to add just the right amount of nutes to your system).

 

IF you are using RO or distilled water, the TDS meter will read "0" or very close to it (make sure to actually read it to be sure), and the pH measurements may not be accurate because there are not enough ions in the solution......... ah forget that for now.

 

Now that you have your baseline TDS reading ("0" from RO or distilled water)(or if using TAP... whatever you measured previously) you're going to add the nutes to the system. I like to add nutes until I get 600 to 800 ppm of nutes. So for RO or distilled water, this means adding nutes until the TDS meters read anywhere from 600 to 800 ppm.  If (and I usually do) use TAP water, I add the 600 to 800 ppm of nutes to the previously measure ppm of the TAP water (in my case that is 400 ppm). So I end up with a TDS measurement of 1000 to 1200 ppm total.

 

Once you have the correct ppm of the solution, adjust the pH of the system to the range I said above... 5.5. to 6.5 using pH UP or pH DOWN. You'll have to check this pH daily until you get a feel for how the system reacts to it's environment. Initially you may not see any changes to the pH, and you certainly won't see any changes to the ppm readings while you plants are small, but things can get out of whack very quickly if you're not paying attention. If you use clear plastic hoses for example, you can get algae growth inside of the hoses that could cause you system to react very quickly. Prolly not going to happen.... but.

 

pH,pH,pH..... watch this more than anything !

 

So the last bit I have to say is about temperature and humidity. Unless you live in an environment where the humidity is extremely low, I wouldn't worry about the humidity in the tent as long as your tent is closed up enough to keep some of that humidity inside (humidity from the evaporation of the plants after they get going). The temperature inside of the tent can be trouble though.  If you're using your 130 WATT light, you shouldn't have a problem with the temperature inside of the tent unless the temperature immediately outside the tent is very high. If or when you add another light in the future though, the heat may become something to consider. The plants themselves can tolerate fairly high temperature, but when the plants get to the flower stage, high temperatures can be a significant problem.

 

Good Luck to Ya !!

 

Happy Growing,

 

Jeff


In Topic: Monsanto's Lawsuit by the People.

29 March 2018 - 10:47 PM

although i have my dislike about that company, i blame people.

too many dumb people use chemicals without protecting themselves. any chemical can be deadly and really bad for health if proper protective gear (masks, glasses, gloves, etc) isn't used..

 

 

Some truth here. Yes, there are a whole bunch of under educated people in the world.  I would say that the lack of education is NOT the fault of the people though.  Not everyone is born with the ability to learn chemistry. Even those that are born with the brain for understanding, there are many, many obstacles that get in the way of that learning. That is (unfortunately) part of the human experience.

 

A corporation is not human. It is a money making machine. The corporation doesn't always care about how it's products affect the world.  The prime directive of the corporation is to make a profit.

 

Large companies or corporations have the money and resources to develop technologies that are absolutely beneficial to humanity. That is a good thing... but with that comes a responsibility.  Some companies or corporations are cautious with their products while others are not. Some companies or corporation know fully and completely that the products that they make are dangerous, toxic, and otherwise very bad for the environment.... but they do nothing to educate or mitigate the damage their products cause. The "warning" labels on products are not there because these companies or corporations were concerned about the effects of their products. They are put there because of legislation.

 

I have used Roundup in the past. I chose not to use it anymore.  That is my personal view.  I would advise others not to use it, but it is not my place to say they cannot.

 

Happy Growing,

 

Jeff