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glog CaneDog 2025 Indoor/Outdoor Glog

Seems like it's been forever since I made a glog post, but 2025 is right around the corner and as someone once said, it's never too early to get started! Last year was a tough year with aphids getting into my early season starts and generally cool sucky weather, so I'm hoping for better in 2025. I'll kick things off with some pic's of my current indoor grow, which I've taken over the past couple/few weeks.

First up is a Scarlett's Chili x Poblano. They're cool looking plants with great tasting mild peppers. I'm doing a lot of work with Jalapenos and planned maintain this variety going forward while also backcrossing it a bit toward its jalapeno roots.
2024115 ScarPo.jpg


Another Jalapano type I have growing inside is Chile Rayado. I like how fuzzy these guys are. In addition to needing more true seeds, I want to cross it with both zapotec and orange spice jalaps.
20241019 - Rayado.jpg


Farmers Market Jalapeno. Another fuzzy type. Somehow I've gone forever without growing these before. I'm impressed with how vigorous and robust they are.
20241218 FarmersMarket.jpg


Mayan Cobanero. Another first time growing for me. I've been keeping it in a solo to rein in its growth, as I often do indoors, but shortly after this pic I saw it start to bud/fork so I moved it up into a 5.5" pot to fill out.
20241203 Mayan Cobanero.jpg


Baccatum Fragilis, with its rather unique mutated look.
20241203 BaccFragilis.jpg


Rhomboidium. After my OW finally died, I had only old-ish seeds to start again so I planted a bunch. I ended up with almost a dozen of these guys so had to cull them back. This guy was one of the lucky few that made it.
20241218 Rhomboidium.jpg


Rocoto Manzano Amarillo Ollantaytambo. Some of the rocotos haven't been too happy being restricted in solo cups, but they're looking good and still staying fairly small after getting upped to 5.5's. This guy still shows a little chlorosis on its lower leaves, but seems happy enough.
20241203 Mr. White.jpg


Anyhow, enough for now.
Cheers!
CD
 
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@CaneDog , how do you go about isolating your pods?
Hey, Purp. All these I started early enough indoors that they set the first pods while still inside then got marked with painter's tape and moved outside to ripen. Sometimes early on I'll even bring a small plant back inside in front of a south window right when the flowers are about to open so they set inside. As long as they set inside, I don't get hybrids. Once they're outside and transplanted and such, I use big organza bags. The little bags don't work well for me, but with bigger bags I find flowers set fruit better. Still, nothing works better for me than simply letting them set inside.
 
Hey, Purp. All these I started early enough indoors that they set the first pods while still inside then got marked with painter's tape and moved outside to ripen. Sometimes early on I'll even bring a small plant back inside in front of a south window right when the flowers are about to open so they set inside. As long as they set inside, I don't get hybrids. Once they're outside and transplanted and such, I use big organza bags. The little bags don't work well for me, but with bigger bags I find flowers set fruit better. Still, nothing works better for me than simply letting them set inside.
So, for outdoor, you mean a single isolating bag (i.e. a tea bag on each flower) doesn’t work?
 
So, for outdoor, you mean a single isolating bag (i.e. a tea bag on each flower) doesn’t work?
I meant something different. I haven't isolated flowers individually with tiny bags so I don't have experience with that. I'd think pedicel length and access might be a limiting factor in some cases, but it might work well in others. Maybe I'll give it a try.

When I first used the organza bags I used bags that were maybe 3"x4" and though I got some fruit set, I noticed the leaves and growth tips had a tendency to curl up and look unhealthy inside the bag and the flowers wouldn't set very well. I assume the bags change the environment within them, such as heat, humidity, air circulation or what not. With bigger bags the effect seems less and fruit set seems better. Frankly, I've never found a solution that's both very easy and very effective for larger scale use, but the bigger bags seem to work well enough.
 
How do they compare to the red ones CD?
They were quite sweet, but I thought the flavor was less strong. Hopefully I'll get to try them side by side later this season to get a better handle on that. I'm also curious how the plant might grow differently when they're full size in the ground. I haven't grown the red lesya often, but it's tended to cluster the pods near the center of the plant and they got soft quickly. The orange seem a bit less clustered together and the pods stayed firm. That could be based on limited experience though.
 
I meant something different. I haven't isolated flowers individually with tiny bags so I don't have experience with that. I'd think pedicel length and access might be a limiting factor in some cases, but it might work well in others. Maybe I'll give it a try.

When I first used the organza bags I used bags that were maybe 3"x4" and though I got some fruit set, I noticed the leaves and growth tips had a tendency to curl up and look unhealthy inside the bag and the flowers wouldn't set very well. I assume the bags change the environment within them, such as heat, humidity, air circulation or what not. With bigger bags the effect seems less and fruit set seems better. Frankly, I've never found a solution that's both very easy and very effective for larger scale use, but the bigger bags seem to work well enough.
I've recently tried this. Choosing a bud that still has to develop inside the bag made it hard to get the bag to fit. about 18 out of 20 bags ended up breaking the stem of the fowerbud.

im trying again in august when the plants are bigger. this might give the space for the bag. Otherwise i'm thinking of pollinating with a paintbrush and then separating the flower with a zipplock bag.

cheers
 
great tips, CD! I'm always trying to improve my isolation percentages on the pepper crosses. I've noticed too that the small bags create a different microenvironment, I've recently started removing all the leaves leaving the petioles to protect the flowers. Bringing them inside for fruiting is also a great idea
 
A quick update with some harvested iso pods and plot photos.

Rocoto San Pedro Orange, Costeno Rojo, and the first ripe tomatillo of the season. I roasted the tomatillo and the flavor was fantastic. I suspect I'll be roasting a lot this season. I already lost a branch on one of the Latina X tomatillo plants due to the weight of the pods. I plan to get cages and supports out this weekend, though apparently I'm already too late.
20250629 MiniIsoHarvest.jpg


Overview of the East Plot as the peppers continue to grow in. I switched to the hose for watering now that they're bigger and it makes it a lot easier.
20250701 EastPlot.jpg


Some Chinense. First off, Habanero Caribbean Red
20250628 HabCarRed.jpg


Habanero Oxkutzcabian Orange
20250628 HabOxkOrange.jpg


Habanero Chocolate
20250628 HabChoc.jpg


Habanero Gambia
20250628 HabGambia.jpg


Stuffing Scotch Bonnet
20250628 SSB.jpg


And lastly, these are some Opalka tomato plants that were in all kinds of bad shape early on in the season, then, suddenly, started to thrive. I have only 1 other paste tomato plant this season, a San Marzano Redorta, so I found a place for these and am hoping I'm not too late to get a harvest from them. Once the Opalka actually get going they seem to do really well in my climate, producing some massive and tasty tomatoes.
20250701 Opalka.jpg
,
 
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I meant something different. I haven't isolated flowers individually with tiny bags so I don't have experience with that. I'd think pedicel length and access might be a limiting factor in some cases, but it might work well in others. Maybe I'll give it a try.

When I first used the organza bags I used bags that were maybe 3"x4" and though I got some fruit set, I noticed the leaves and growth tips had a tendency to curl up and look unhealthy inside the bag and the flowers wouldn't set very well. I assume the bags change the environment within them, such as heat, humidity, air circulation or what not. With bigger bags the effect seems less and fruit set seems better. Frankly, I've never found a solution that's both very easy and very effective for larger scale use, but the bigger bags seem to work well enough.
Hey CD, have you ever tried the glue isolation method?

I’ve used it a few times when I didn’t have spare bags or if I didn’t want to interfere with the branch growth. Works OK once you’ve practiced. Throwing a bag over the end of a branch is definitely easier for bulk. Always nice to have different methods in your toolbox though.

There is a paper that discusses it which I can't instantly find but this blog example shows what I mean.
 
Hey CD, have you ever tried the glue isolation method?

I’ve used it a few times when I didn’t have spare bags or if I didn’t want to interfere with the branch growth. Works OK once you’ve practiced. Throwing a bag over the end of a branch is definitely easier for bulk. Always nice to have different methods in your toolbox though.

There is a paper that discusses it which I can't instantly find but this blog example shows what I mean.
Hey, CC! I did try that for a short period of time a couple seasons ago, using Elmer's wood glue. I had mixed results, not great, though never took the time to develop any skills or technique. Plus things weren't generally setting well at the time, which IIRC is why I tried a new method.

I'm glad you mention it, because I have a Mayan Cobanero plant that just started to flower today and it will have a million little flowers soon with no practical way to bag them. Gluing might be perfect for this. If you have any advice on technique, I'd be happy to hear. Or maybe on a type of glue that's easier to work with, as the glue I used previously was pretty thick and hard to spread evenly. I could see a more fluid glue that brushes on perhaps working really well for this.
 
It can be hit or miss for sure and it’s not something I use extensively. Glue brands will be different here but I’ve used almost any generic PVA craft glue. The type you’ll find online in packs of small bottles. They seem more liquid than good old heavy duty wood glue.

I think my only tip on the glue would be if it seems too thick then being PVA you can dilute it with water. Mix a little up in a small condiment container and either dunk the bud into it or brush on.
 
Darting in for a quick lunchtime post...

Recent harvest of isolated pods from the deck peppers - clockwise from the bottom are Zapotec Jalapeno x Hidalgo Serrano F1, Chilhuacle Amarillo Long, and the elusive and highly coveted Mommy & Me Rojo :)
20250707 RipeISO.jpg


Chilhuacle Amarillo Long, pre-harvest
20250707  ChilhaucleAmLong.jpg


Jalapeno Zapotec x Hidalgo Serrano F1 - The crosses are producing heavily, though I haven't tried any ripe pods yet.
20250707 RapXHidalgo.jpg


Jalapeno Zapotec x Chile Rayado F1 - quality spicy pods on this. Can't wait to see the pods from the full-size plant growing in the raised bed.
20250707  ZapXRay.jpg


From the community garden, the jamaican red mushroom is setting in earnest.
20250707 JamaRedMush.jpg


This bulgarian carrot pepper pod split. All the other pods are fine, so I'm not sure why this one split.
20250707 BulgCarrotSplit.jpg


This Chilhuacle Rojo set about 60 days ago and is now starting to ripen. I'll feel relieved when I get this guy back home and get the seeds out as this was a tough variety to obtain and I want the ISO seeds for going forward.
20250707 ChilhaucleRojoRFC.jpg


And this is a Bradley's Bahamian (Frutescens). Nothing too special at this point, but I said I'd try to get a picture of it posted. Its neighbor is a Tabasco plant. They're supposed to be somewhat similar so I'm curious to compare the two. It's showing some leaf canoeing going from a shadier location into the full day direct sun at the community garden, but it should adjust quickly.
20250707 BradsBaha.jpg
 
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