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I get my water from two sources: the hose and the sky. Unless you have some really bad water, municipal water is fine for peppers.

I use Organocide, although I use the concentrate. I had the same issue with leaf burn even when mixing to the label directions. I also had some leaf curl. It took a few days, but it all resolved and the plants recovered nicely. Dont sweat it,

I take an empty bottled water bottle, drill a small (maybe 2mm or so) hole in the top of the cap and use that to water seedlings. Easier to use than watering can or spray bottle. As far as fertilizer, I start giving them liquid fertilizer at 50% dilution after about a month. Most good soils...

I had the same thing and it was aphids. Hit the plant with a little Organocide and insecticidal soap and it bounced back with full size new growth.

Cool video. Yeah, either you have the highest tolerance for pain or that is not a TS. Scorps I've had hit fast and hard, even a quarter slice.

You had all the respect in the world from me for a while. I thought there was no way I could make fun of you. Then your cell phone went off (about the 7 minute mark) with the Michael Jackson ring tone. Then I got the hiccups and almost threw up. :doh:

I'm using Fox Farms Ocean Forest and throw in about 10%-15% Black Kow compost. Couldnt be happier. Promix is top quality as well. You cant go wrong with either one.. If you're planting alot of plants, you may want to go with Promix to keep costs down.

You usually find a plant to be root bound (or pot bound) when a plant is too large for its container and there is not enough lateral room for roots to expand. Roots are constrained by the edges and bottom of the pot and continue to grow around themselves. But you usually find it in container...

Pics would help. Lizards are great for round the clock pest control. They eat ants and other crawlers. One neat thing: if your plants are in containers, put them close enough so that the leaves touch a bit. The lizards will jump from one plant to the other and feast.

gotta disagree on this one. Eggs or no eggs, horworms can destroy a plant in a day or so and should be removed from the plant immediately.

Not to alarm you AJ, but I saw an aphid. Its the 35th plant in the 56th row. :lol: Great looking setup.

Ants pretty much serve no useful purpose for peppers. Where there are ants, there will usually be aphids. Aphids excrete honeydew, which ants feed on. In return, ants will transport aphids to higher leaves and also attack predators of aphids.

Went out and sprayed with a half strength dose of BT based on those pics. I havent seem one in about a month, so I'm getting nervous. A little preventative dose never hurt anyone.

Anything going on with the older leaves? Iron, Magnesium or Potassium deficiences will usually hit older, lower leaves first. Those look like younger leaves.

I say critters and not sunscald.

Be careful. Unlike primary nutrients or even magnesium, which are very mobile, calcium is not great to apply via foliar means and has potential to cause leaf burn. Much better off applying through the soil.

Yes, July has been a nice month to you. Great looking plants. Down here it is hot as heck all day and then a nice downpour in the late afternoon. Plants are on autopilot.

Peppers are not extremely picky, but they prefer slightly acidic, somewhere in the range of 5.9-6.9. Your 7 is probably fine and I wouldn't obsess over it. You can get a granular plant food with a higher sulfur content, like a Tomato-Tone. Or go with old reliable and safe and mix in some fresh...

What about a Brita pitcher or a faucet filter? Reduces chlorine and other impurities and its available right away. I use water from the fridge filter, but I dont think my plants would suffer if I switched to tap.

Dont always get fooled into thinking that calcium is the culprit. There could be plenty of calcium in the soil, but no uptake. Remember that BER is mostly about uptake and most often led to by extreme variances in soil moisture. High PH and high nitrogen will also contribute to it. First fruit...