• Blog your pepper progress. The first image in your first post will be used to represent your Glog.

2018 - The Farm

Well, I've been gone a few years from the board, and away from growing peppers, but looks like life is pushing me back that way again. 
 
I recently (last month) closed on a 25 acre farm in Central Illinois with some primo soil, and I'm going to give a commercial grow a test run. 
 
NzpDT8g.jpg

 
TrugNBb.jpg

 
From up on the roof, when I was doing some roof repairs on the outbuildings. Not much as far as the eye can see, but cornfields...
 
BZXHqMp.jpg

 
 
Has a 4 stall garage and a horse stable on the property
 
dHjylEo.jpg

 
GCjcX18.jpg

 
2N9v0Yf.jpg

 
Probably do my grow room upstairs here after I insulate it
 
HYVOyF0.jpg

 
Built some doors for the horse barn and patched the roof last month
 
NNO9Tcg.jpg

 
zfOwha1.jpg

 
 
Anyway just dropped a cold grand on seeds from pepperlover and buckeye, going to hit a greenhouse supplier up for other materials next week.
 
Have plans to build a 30x72' greenhouse in the spring, and a ~1200 sq foot dedicated grow room. Too late really to help with this year's grow, but next year it'll save me a lot of hassle on hardening off. 
 
The greenhouse, I am going to do a piped infloor heat slab, with a horizontal loop geothermal system (I own a mini excavator) that is solar powered. So heating should be nice, uniform, not create heat / cold bubbles, and not dry out plants like forced air would. I build circuit boards in my day job, so I will also build a microcontroller to handle the automated watering system with soil moisture monitors and actuated plumbing valves on the water supply.
 
Also plan on building a "deep winter" greenhouse for year round production. Got blueprints I made from a couple of years back, those are walled on three sides with heavy duty insulation, with the glass wall side angled to face winter solstice, so you can grow in the deep freeze months of the north. In the summer, those get hot enough to use as a natural dehydrator, replace the tables with racks for bulk drying.
 
Only doing a half acre or so of peppers to start with this year, the balance will be put in corn. I can't manage more than that with the labor I have available. (When you start talking thousands of plants, simple tasks like up-potting grow in to hundreds or thousands of man hours...)
 
Going to hire some local kids to help, school has a good ag co-op program for high schoolers, they can get school credit working on local farms. Since the plant out and harvest doesn't conflict too badly with corn, shouldn't have a problem finding labor around here.
 
Anyway, that's the plans.
 
We'll see how it goes.. er.. grows.
 
 
Genetikx said:
This is going back a few years so suffice my memory, but my guy at the hydro shop prefers this much more than Great White. He sells both.

Myco Blast Concentrate by Supreme Growers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MT676YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cDw2AbA1VAQ27

Reason he prefers the myco blast is because if you compare the amount of bacteria on the label, great white had a considerable amount less. Not sure about cost comparison but I've stuck with myco blast ever since
I have used some stuff from supreme growers as well. It was good. But of course i had nothing to compare it too.
 
TrentL said:
I also may end up topping some of them if they get too out of hand over the next few weeks. I haven't really wanted to - it hurts production by a measurable amount - but I might have no choice.
 
My Naga morich plant and i took the picture just now:

The stem might actually be a little bit thicker than a pencil at this point.
 
Chilidude said:
 
My Naga morich plant and i took the picture just now:

The stem might actually be a little bit thicker than a pencil at this point.
 
Read a couple studies where topping reduces the quantity of produce (in pounds per plant/acre), but can increase quality, pod size, and canopy cover, which results in less lost produce from sun damage.
 
I'm kind of mixed about it. I have enough plants, I might run my own study on it this year. Top the last 1/4 of each row or something, see how they compare with the rest of the field. 
 
The strongest 4-6 of each variety will for sure remain untopped, they're going in to isolation rooms for seed, and want as many pods as I can get.
 
I topped *all* of my plants in 2014 and had a hell of a year.
 
 
 
TrentL said:
 
Read a couple studies where topping reduces the quantity of produce (in pounds per plant/acre), but can increase quality, pod size, and canopy cover, which results in less lost produce from sun damage.
 
I'm kind of mixed about it. I have enough plants, I might run my own study on it this year. Top the last 1/4 of each row or something, see how they compare with the rest of the field. 
 
The strongest 4-6 of each variety will for sure remain untopped, they're going in to isolation rooms for seed, and want as many pods as I can get.
 
I topped *all* of my plants in 2014 and had a hell of a year.
 
 
 
I prefer quality over quantity in chili growing. They might not produce as much in a shorter season but if the pod size is bigger then all is good, actually one of my topped Naga morich plants produced massive pods and there was plenty of them too inside the house when i used sunlight and led light in the same time.
 
But remember, this is your goal now:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Bm93RBvMfc&t
 
Those ones must have been topped, i am sure of that. That Dorset naga plant might be something, that i would like to grow.
 
Edit: after reading some of the comments in Youtube, the grower dont recommend topping in short season, so i am not too sure about that topping no more..But they sure looks like they have been topped. They used very low strength General purpose miracle grow fertilizer to water the plants during the grow season and sometimes Phostrogen all purpose plant food.
 
In southern california I have a very long grow season. I rarely get a frost in my zone but I hate topping plants. I experimented one year and topped half my plants. They did terrible. I won't do it again.
 
Edmick said:
In southern california I have a very long grow season. I rarely get a frost in my zone but I hate topping plants. I experimented one year and topped half my plants. They did terrible. I won't do it again.
 
I use a greenhouse of course, i have been topping my plants all this time when using coco coir and the results have been great for me. I think all depends what is your growing place and how long was the initial growing time of the plant after topping them.
 
Topping delays fruiting by 2-3 weeks, at least in my experience. You're cutting the main stem, tripping up the auxins. Remember those things I mentioned when we were talking about herbicides a while back, and how they kill plants?
 
Auxins are the plants signalling system, their hormones, as it were. 
 
When you top a plant it goes in to "I'm damaged" mode - it literally thinks (well, as much as a plant can "think") that something has eaten part of it. 
 
What happens is the plant hormones which normally direct new growth to the furthest shoot, can no longer "get there", and instead trigger growth on all of the nodes below it; what you see in your picture is classic of this. 

Because it causes the plant to focus on new growth, it will delay the development (the maturity) of the plant significantly. A couple weeks for annuums, even longer for slower growing chinense. 
 
However, it WILL cause a plant to branch out dramatically. Instead of producing flowers at nodes, it will produce branches and new forks. That increases canopy cover. Eventually, after some time, you'll get a lot of pods. Maybe not as many pods as if you'd let it branch and grow naturally, but the pods will be bigger (as they are forming on branches closer to the root system, instead of x feet up off of ground level) - that's a shorter trip for nutrients to take. Plus fewer pods means the plant focuses on those. (Same logic behind cutting off immature pods and any branches without ripening fruit, to rapidly hasten any remaining pods already changing color at the end of the year. Plant focuses on what it has.)
 
 
Edmick said:
In southern california I have a very long grow season. I rarely get a frost in my zone but I hate topping plants. I experimented one year and topped half my plants. They did terrible. I won't do it again.
 
After you top you have to give them plenty of nitrogen, to support the rapid leaf and branch development. It sends the plant in to shock. Best to do it a couple weeks *before* plant out. Before hardening off. If you try to do it once they are stressed by hardening off, or going in the dirt, they will not be happy.
 
I topped when they were already outside for weeks. I was left with a bushy stem with no new shoots at all. They looked pathetic. Lol
 
Edmick said:
I topped when they were already outside for weeks. I was left with a bushy stem with no new shoots at all. They looked pathetic. Lol
 
Look how much sidestems my Petenero is doing now:

 
Talk about very nice looking plant in the end of the season.
 
it literally thinks (well, as much as a plant can "think")

You would probably be surprised, I watched this documentary where these Asians had something hooked up to this plant. They had one scientist come in and destroy the other plants in the room. Then after that the plant that remained would respond to that scientist differently when he entered the room. It could be bullshit but it seemed legit
 
CMJ said:
Definitely needs nitrogen.....
 
They are much greener in reality than they appear in the picture, it is the light and my smartphone camera always makes everything look less green and also dont worry about the well being of my chilis, as my secondary occupation is a gardener, so i got this covered... :shh:
 
I am not going to feed them too much nitrogen to make them more green for the sake of more green, as it is not going to make make them grow good sturdy stems or produce better harvest in the end.
 
They are  already getting NPK ratio of 7-5-13 and my best fertilizer have NPK ratio of 6-2-6
 
Chilidude said:
 
They are much greener in reality than they appear in the picture, it is the light and my smartphone camera always makes everything look less green and also dont worry about the well being of my chilis, as my secondary occupation is a gardener, so i got this covered... :shh:
 
I am not going to feed them too much nitrogen to make them more green for the sake of more green, as it is not going to make make them grow good sturdy stems or produce better harvest in the end.
 
They are  already getting NPK ratio of 7-5-13 and my best fertilizer have NPK ratio of 6-2-6
You are right, I was WAY too worried about the well being of your chilies. Stayed up all night thinking about it. I hope they survive the severe nitrogen deficiency you are torturing them with, lol!

Im just messing with you man. Your plants look fine...
 
Back
Top