Thanks Edmick. Ideally you'd want enough solution to last the plant to harvest, fill and forget. The 32 gallon would have run empty if I had gotten it out sooner. You can refill them but have to be careful not to fill too much or you'll drown the plant. I'm hoping to score a 55 gal container for next year.Edmick said:Great video Peter. Perhaps I missed this part but can I ask, What is the benefit of using the large trash can over using something like a 5 gallon bucket? Is it the frequency of changing the solution?
That was one of the best explanations of Kratky method I've read. And yes, Matt Garver is a great person to talk to for more information. He's very knowledgable about this and other methods of growing.Malarky said:kratky is different than dwc in that in kratky, only the distal tips of the roots grow down into the nutrient solution and they differentiate their function in nutrient and water absorbtion. other root fibers in the headspace above the nutrient solution differentiate their function to gas exchange.
the relative humidity in the headspace allows the roots to not dry out and die.
as the nutrient level drops, the roots grow longer, keeping the nutrient and water absorbing tips in the solution.
problems arise when replenishing the nutrient solution. if you raise the nutrient solution level up into the gas exchange root zone the plant will "drown".
using a large kratky container minimizes the need add extra nutrient...big containers of nutrient allow you to set and forget the system for a good while.
in dwc my understanding is that most of the entire root system is submerged in an oxygen saturated liquid environment.
thats my limited understanding of kratky
check out MattGarver on the google pepper group or i think he is deeproots here at THP
Malarky said:kratky is different than dwc in that in kratky, only the distal tips of the roots grow down into the nutrient solution and they differentiate their function in nutrient and water absorbtion. other root fibers in the headspace above the nutrient solution differentiate their function to gas exchange.
the relative humidity in the headspace allows the roots to not dry out and die.
as the nutrient level drops, the roots grow longer, keeping the nutrient and water absorbing tips in the solution.
problems arise when replenishing the nutrient solution. if you raise the nutrient solution level up into the gas exchange root zone the plant will "drown".
using a large kratky container minimizes the need add extra nutrient...big containers of nutrient allow you to set and forget the system for a good while.
in dwc my understanding is that most of the entire root system is submerged in an oxygen saturated liquid environment.
thats my limited understanding of kratky
check out MattGarver on the google pepper group or i think he is deeproots here at THP
Kratky works outside just fine. One of the main considerations is the possibility of rain water diluting the nutrient pool. Taking steps to make sure rain water doesn't pool and drain into the reservoir. You should look up Matt Garver on the google+ group Pepperlovers. He has an entire kratky garden. A mixture of tubs, garbage cans and even 5-gallon bucket systems that are fed by a 55ga drum with a float valve to control the nutrient level so as to not flood the breathing roots. If I get some time I'll try to link some of his pics.keybrdkid said:
Oh I see. so my eyes didn't tell me the whole story.
Now I understand better how kratky actually works.
Are any of you doing Kratkys outdoors, not in a greenhouse?
Stagnant liquids in my area are a magnet for worms. I would be nervous they would find a way into the reservoir and ruin the whole thing. Maybe the grow media would keep them out. here's to hope.
I might have to test it sometime. unless kratky is not meant to be used outdoors without artificial controls.