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Added 15,600 lumens of 2700K light

I have not used one yet...probably need to go get one...but where wallyworld?
 
good idea Potawie...I am sure they will let me since I gave them one of my Naga Morich to grow on display...matter of fact, haven't been to see the wayward child in 2 weeks...
 
teh purple penguins said:
if you look in your instuctions for your digital camera you might be able how to use it's build in light meter
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Oh, that's a good idea! I'd have never thought of that.
 
teh purple penguins said:
if you look in your instuctions for your digital camera you might be able how to use it's build in light meter
Click to expand...

Pam said:
Oh, that's a good idea! I'd have never thought of that.
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Very resourceful TPP...I will check it out...

Pam...did you get any rain?...
 
i would google how to do it exactly. you have to have a white piece of papper and have it only in your view finder to get an accurate reading.. gosh i actually had a dream where i did this last night :|
 
AJ,

I bought this one:

LX-1020B features an extremely precise accuracy of ±4.0% rdg through 0-10,000 Lux readings and ±5.0% rdg through 10,000-100,000 Lux readings in three ranges of 2,000 LUX, 20,000 LUX, and 100,000 LUX. Another good feature is that it include DATA HOLD function which the data obtained becomes a very useful information to maintain the brightness of any environment. It uses long life silicon diode, spectral response filter and fully corrected for the angular incidence of light to ensure stability. Brightness or light intensity plays a very essential factor in determining the proper exposure for photograph as well as providing correct light intensity for each environment.

This light meter is indeed very useful to applications like in the fields of cinematography, in scenic design, in determining optimum light level for a scene, in the general field of lighting, in reducing the amount of waste light used in the home, in ensuring proper light levels for plant growth. And even in measuring luminance in any environments such as illumination control, weather observation and work places like factories, offices, shops, schools, restaurants, beauty salons, electro-optical sources, research teaching, metallurgy building, industry inspection, and agriculture research.

for $30 via e-bay. There were others that were a tad cheaper but they maxed out at 50,000 Lux. From what I read, sunlight can vary from 32,000-close to 100,000 Lux so I wanted to compare very bright, summer sunlight to what I can generate in my grow room. I suspect that your 46 watt lights would probably provide about 1/2 the max Lux of sunlight but then they produce 100% PAR light. Gotta be honest, though, I haven't been able to find the PAR value of sunlight - yet!

Mike
 
Omri,

What I am trying to focus on is maximizing the amount of usable lumens delivered to a plant using the least expensive method.

Mike
 
That's simply not true and I don't see how you could infer that I am. If total lumens were all that was important, I wouldn't be using 20 watt CFL bublbs in the 2700K spectrum. It produces no more than 1400 lumens, probably closer to 1250-1300.

Mike
 
wordwiz said:
That's simply not true and I don't see how you could infer that I am. If total lumens were all that was important, I wouldn't be using 20 watt CFL bublbs in the 2700K spectrum. It produces no more than 1400 lumens, probably closer to 1250-1300.

Mike
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You know? sorry. I'll keep my opinion to myself.
I personally was talking about luminous intensity, not output, but that's not relevant.
I wish you the best of luck with your setup. :cheers:
 
personally, I think you both are talking about nearly the same thing just saying it differently...peace between you brothers...
 
AlabamaJack said:
personally, I think you both are talking about nearly the same thing just saying it differently...peace between you brothers...
Click to expand...

Nah, AJ, I think Omri and I disagree about the best lighting to use. And I won't say he is wrong - I'm still learning and experimenting.

I did read something that was illuminating (horrible pun intentional!). I plan on growing tomatoes and some peppers indoors this winter. Simply keeping the canopy bathed in light (of whatever spectrum) is not enough, especially for a three-four foot tall plant. I don't remember the exact formula, but of those 1600 lumens hitting the canopy, three feet down, it will only be getting maybe 400 lumens (one can substitute watts of light or whatever).

It looks like I may need to find some relective light bars on chains I can drop down between plants.

Mike
 
wordwiz said:
Nah, AJ, I think Omri and I disagree about the best lighting to use. And I won't say he is wrong - I'm still learning and experimenting.

I did read something that was illuminating (horrible pun intentional!). I plan on growing tomatoes and some peppers indoors this winter. Simply keeping the canopy bathed in light (of whatever spectrum) is not enough, especially for a three-four foot tall plant. I don't remember the exact formula, but of those 1600 lumens hitting the canopy, three feet down, it will only be getting maybe 400 lumens (one can substitute watts of light or whatever).

It looks like I may need to find some relective light bars on chains I can drop down between plants.

Mike
Click to expand...

light intensity is halved with every extra foot of distance.
 
Ungrumpy Bear,

I thought that was the ratio but wasn't sure. That's why the intensity of sunlight is the same at the top of a five foot plant as the bottom - it has already travelled 93 million miles so that extra 60 inches make no difference!

Mike
 
at what distance are the bulbs rated?...is it X lumens at the source or X lumens one foot away?..anybody know for sure?
 
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