you are correct. should have been don't cast caution to the wind. typos happen on days like this.Roguejim said:Thanks, but I must admit I don't quite understand how to "cast caution to the wind and use moderation". A bit of a contradiction, it seems to me.
Well, since I've received so much advice, often times disagreeing, I feel I should update on what I've decided for now. Wednesday, midnight, I sprayed 1 gallon of permethrin on my plants. It was not fun wearing a spotlight strapped to my head, trying to see what I was doing. This evening at 7:30, I sprayed 1 gallon of GardenSafe 3--in-1 miticide/fungicide/insecticide. It is essentially 70% Neem oil. I'm thinking I will spray the permethrin again next Tuesday, the GardenSafe on the following Saturday. After that, I will only spray once a week, if necessary, alternating between the two.
Thanks. I can handle aphids. It's the mites that have me concerned. I'm not even sure they are "broad" mites, but, someone here said the plant damage in the photos is consistent with broad mites. Without using a magnifying device(I have one on order), how do you tell the difference between broad mite damage, and spider mite damage, for example?HP22BH said:No, It is as good ma try as any I could recomend.
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This may help you understand aphids and their control or lack of a little better.
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http://thehotpepper.com/topic/44251-hp22bhs-glog-201314/
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http://thehotpepper.com/topic/44910-aphid-solution/
Interesting, but what the heck are "potassium salts of fatty acids"? I have a bottle of Safer Garden Fungicide which contains sulphur, another option for aphids and mites. I don't think they sell it anymore, though. It's not on their website.Verivus said:Well, I just bought this off Amazon to see if it works on mealy bugs on my spearmint plant.
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00192AO90/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p86_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1QGG94GJ4HNZ6X4X9DT8&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846
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No idea if it's going to work, but the reviews seem good enough. Plus it's organic. It lists aphids and mites on it's target list as well.
Ladybugs & their larvae was the only thing that worked for me.WichitaChief said:Lady bugs! I haven't ever used them this late in the year though. I've had seedlings infested with aphids and the ladybugs saved me. Like HP said the larvae are voracious predators. Neem worked for me on my over wintered ones. For awhile.
ÂRoguejim said:So, do you think I am wasting my time with the current regimen? There is so much disagreement here, and on the canna sites, that it's kind of a crap shoot. One thing works for one person, but, doesn't work for the next...
One consistency that I've seen though, is that neem and pyrethrin are not "one time" fixes. I already knew that about pyrethrin. This is my first fling with neem.
ÂRoguejim said:Interesting, but what the heck are "potassium salts of fatty acids"? I have a bottle of Safer Garden Fungicide which contains sulphur, another option for aphids and mites. I don't think they sell it anymore, though. It's not on their website.
I have a bottle of Coco Wet that I can add. Yeah, I'm aware that permethrin is (I think) synthetic pyrethrins. I used it because Bonide Pyrethrins does not list mites, but Bonide Eight Concentrate(permethrin) does.queequeg152 said:what do you mean by wasting your time? yes you are not likely to wipe out the infestation, but you are likely to control their population.Â
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if you want them gone... for good, you will need a legit acharicde like spino, or abamectin.
spino is for ornimentals however, i would not reccomend it on your peppers. abamectin is cool on edible crops, just need to wait like 15 days or w.e the manufacturer says i cannot recall.
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if you catch the infestation early enough, i think its entirely possible that you could wipe them out with what you have.
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btw permethrin is not organic, idk if you knew that. hopefully you did not confuse it with pyrethrin. i use it for catterpillars... works wonderfully.
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with respect to the permethrin, one big thing you can do, is add a surfactant to your sprays... this will spread out the spray into films that will stick to the leaves longer. it may not sound like a huge deal, but trust me it helps tons.
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http://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Non-Ionic-Surfactant-Herbicides/dp/B004XDHRCE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1405897560&sr=8-4&keywords=spreader+sticker
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this is what im talking about. just make sure its compatable with the pesticides you have.
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thats just a fancy word for soap.
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in order to make soap you need fatty acids, IE steric acid( cow lard etc.) + a strong base like potassium hydroxide.
Ya know, I'm going to seriously look into lady bugs for next season. Will they eradicate all mites, or, is there some other bug I should purchase?geeme said:My vote is ladybugs AND green lacewings. Aphids and mites will be decimated.Â
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Of course, only if you haven't used some form of insecticide yet, as it will also kill the beneficials.
ÂRoguejim said:I have a bottle of Coco Wet that I can add. Yeah, I'm aware that permethrin is (I think) synthetic pyrethrins. I used it because Bonide Pyrethrins does not list mites, but Bonide Eight Concentrate(permethrin) does.
So what you're saying is that pyrethrins kill lady bugs?ÂTrippa said:Pyrethrins will kill most insects especially if the pyrethrin is combined with piperonyl butoxide (PBO ) (as many are) to increase the insects susceptibility the poison . However because naturally sourced pyrethrin breaks down rapidly (within hours) when exposed to UV light if you stopped spraying 72hours + before you released the lady bugs you should be fine... I would try to give them 5 days myself.
Also note the breakdown time of pyrethrin ... so for best results spray at dusk