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Broad mites.

cruzzfish

cruzzfish

I'm having some trouble deciding how to treat them. Neem oil will cause problem with pollinators, and most other people say not to use miticides on things that will be harvested soon. Water treatment is unfeasible because the plants are tall, so what would you guys recommend?
 
miguelovic said:
I've heard sulphur powder holds them at bay.
 
Are they in pots or ground?
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In pots. It's a pretty bad infestation though.
 
 

queequeg152 said:
abamectin will 100% kill them. 7 days till harvest after last application. .
 
spray at night or else you will kill bees and junk.

 
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So everything's safe to eat after seven days? Also, any specific brands you'd recommend?
 
cruzzfish said:
 
So everything's safe to eat after seven days? Also, any specific brands you'd recommend?
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no brands,its been off patent since the early 2000's. 
 
but i HIGHLY reccomend you buy just a little bit. a very little bit... like 2 ounces.
 
the reccomended dosage is like 2ml per gallon.
 
i bought my lifetime 2 or 4 ounce supply like... 4 or 5 years ago on ebay from some guy who just re bottled from quart sizes into these tiny nalgene vials.
 
the guy is not on ebay anymore though = (
 
you DONT need a hazmat suit to apply the stuff. just dont do it in the wind and dont do it near water, its toxic to fish and frogs and crap too. UV light kills it in like 3 hours so you have to do it in the evening. you really want to use distilled water and a spreader sticker adjuvant such that the spray sticks to the leaves instead of beading off. 
oh hey i think i found the guy?
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ounce-Generic-Avid-Miticide-Abamectin-makes-60-gallons-of-spray-/131566341841?hash=item1ea1f70ed1
 
its a different bottle and now like twice the price.... but i think its the same guy? idk maby not.
 
remember you want abamectin not spino... spino while its used on weed plants for some reason... is really for ornimental plants(last i checked).
spino works better, but id stick to the abamectin.
 
its what they use on citrus trees to control leaf miners.
 
read and follow the directions exactly or the FDA will steal tools from your shed.

oh hey here is another.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/free-avid-0-15-EC-Miticide-insecticide-1-2-OZ-with-purchase-of-2-pipettes/151728490960?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D777000%26algo%3DABA.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131227121020%26meid%3D67ce209462d347a49b57811429332ef7%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D131566341841
 
free when you purchase 2 pippets? wtf is that?
 
If they're in pots heat treatment is proven effective. 120-130*F for 30 minutes minimum. No wind/air circulation, RH above 50 and plants should be freshly watered. I will mention I've only known this done with cannabis, every plant is different.
 
Might be a hassle unless you have a good heater. It's more common with indoor growers who have the option to just turn off air conditioning.
 
 
If applying abamectin, do read the label and observe recommended precautions (coveralls/tyvek suit, gloves, rubber boots and a respirator). Doubling manufacturers recommendations on preharvest intervals is a good rule of thumb.
 
Honestly I gave you the best solution imo in my first post.
 
One I had just used to save a crop way better than peppers.

miguelovic said:
If they're in pots heat treatment is proven effective. 120-130*F for 30 minutes minimum. No wind/air circulation, RH above 50 and plants should be freshly watered. I will mention I've only known this done with cannabis, every plant is different.
 
Might be a hassle unless you have a good heater. It's more common with indoor growers who have the option to just turn off air conditioning.
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that is good to know
 
I cant wait to see who tries a hair drier or heat gun first.
 
does heat kill the eggs though? i know its a problem with most of the miticides abamectin included... hence the application instructions.
 
problem with the heat and soap and sulfur though, is the lack of residual killing value.  if you have a constant pest pressure from adjacent areas you will likely reinfect. not an issue indoors obiviously, but outside it can be.
 
queequeg152 said:
does heat kill the eggs though? i know its a problem with most of the miticides abamectin included... hence the application instructions.
 
problem with the heat and soap and sulfur though, is the lack of residual killing value.  if you have a constant pest pressure from adjacent areas you will likely reinfect. not an issue indoors obiviously, but outside it can be.
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the sulfur kinda stays put until rain
 
Heat does destroy eggs from what I gather though the more prudent do multiple treatments. I've been lucky enough to dodge that one and have no experience.
 
How did you confirm broad mites, Heckle? Some what skeptical on the effectiveness of dishsoap when so many professionals and hobbyists alike struggle with the pest.
 
Either way, all you can do is give options. What he chooses is entirely up to him.
 
 
I thought abamectin degraded quite quickly and had little systemic action? re: contact insecticide.
 
miguelovic said:
How did you confirm broad mites? Some what skeptical on the effectiveness of dishsoap when so many professionals and hobbyists alike struggle with the pest.
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I didnt confirm any further than mites.  I guess broad mites might be tougher than others?
 
It is a struggle. Its also a struggle finding the right dilution or you kill leaves too. Too weak, doesnt kill the mites.
 
i've gone back to dish soap after giving up on it over a decade ago. It works when you are persistent and thorough.
 
I had tomatoe russet mites last year, far worse than broad mites. The cash crop growers are dealing with a russet mite epidemic.
For me Bonide micronized sulfur killed them completely.
I have to say if you have passion and definitely a chili head, you will get passed this.
 
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