I have been thinking about next year already. And instead of starting everything from seed, I may take cuttings from what I have now and clone some of my starts later this fall. My thought is I wont have to overwinter huge plants and when early season comes around I should have plants ready to produce lots of pods.
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Cheating on next years grow
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Very easy. I took cuttings from my favorite plants weeks ago, they have all rooted, and been transplanted with two neem baths now.SavinaRed said:
I have never OW a pepper. I do a lot of herbs, tropicals and hard to get flowers. I think Joyner hit home with the pests. It seems so much easier to grow a couple more plants and get the same output. But then there is that one that you really like. I think it would be fun to bonsia it to make it look cool and a winter project. If I was to clone it meant I was out of that seed or the pheno that just amazed me. Starting over with new stock keeps us going with a fresh new outlook. You got to wind down, run out, be bummed and start new. That's how the season flows. If I had a lot of clones in Jan I would not be so fired up about starting new ones that I missed and looking forward to their progress.
well then lets rock n roll ! keep us updated my friend !CAPCOM said:
absolutely.SavinaRed said:
Bypass germination and seedling stages. All you have to wait on is root development. A little mycos in a sm pot and there off
I am not going to clone everything for next year. I will be starting some seed, just not everything. And depending on how hardening off goes, I should have pods very soon after moving outdoors.Rairdog said:
SavinaRed said:
bucdout57 said:
No videos needed. You also don't need to spend money on cloning gel or rooting hormones. All that you need is a knife, or heavy-duty scissors, a 1.5 Liter Plastic water water bottle, and water (ordinary tap water will do). Cut off a decent size branch - something like 8 inches long—It's OK to leave a few leaves on top. Put the stick in the bottle in such a way as some of it is sticks out the the top, and fill it almost to the top with water. Leave the bottle anywhere—It doesn't need to be under light or near a window. Have patience. It may take 4-6 weeks for roots to form, but they will form. Change the water once in a while (every week or 2 or 3) for cleanliness. Once it roots, it helps to leave it near some light source.
Life wants very much to continue and you are just helping it along. I've had nearly 100% success rooting houseplants and Chile Peppers. I'm reasonably sure that all of my failures would have rooted, had I given them more time. Take a look at one of my cuttings. I've had it in there for around 3 months now and it is growing in the water. It only had 1 leaf when I started.
Good luck!
I still haven't added any nutrients to the cutting that I posted, so your assumption is correct. My last cutting is now a thriving plant and I didn't give it any nutrients for a while, even after I transplanted it into soil. I plan on keeping the cutting that I showed off until next May. What I'm not 100% sure of, is whether I will need to add any nutrients at all provided that I keep it in the same plastic water bottle. The roots are getting bigger, so I may put it in a bigger container of water. Water lacks the nutrients that soil has, and I've never kept a cutting in water as long as I plan on keeping this one. I am going to leave nutrients out of the picture, unless I see problems, OR, unless I decide I want the cutting to grow a lot more, before I put it in a 5 gallon bucket with soil and bring it outside.nubster said:
This is my best growing season and I've fertilized much less than past seasons. It took me a long time to realize that I was over-fertilizing in the past.
I checked my pictures, and it looks like my cutting started to root in early May, more than 3 months ago. It is thriving and growing a little (a few new leaves), with no signs of nutritional deficiencies , and I haven't given it anything other than water, so yes, you don't need any nutrients before it roots, and you can stay from the nutrients for a while after it roots.
Ok I can help here... doing cuttings is what I do I have a misting bed to root cuttings also I do winter rooting...
You have three types of growth on a plant soft wood semi hard and hardwood...
The easiest way and faster way is softwood in the spring about 6 weeks of growth the new stems re easy to root .
Hardwood is done in the winter after a hard freeze now the problem with peppers are they die from a freeze so best bet is to take cuttings last part of august and over winter them... In a mist bed I have it turn on at 7am and it goes off at 7pm during those times mist comes on for seconds every 10 minutes this keeps the humidity high so the cutting is kept moist while it forms roots... depending on what I am rooting I use sand or a mixture of sand and peat moss.... Once they have roots I wait a week or two then I pot them up and put them in shade to grow some more I do not fertilize them for that can kill them at a young age... Now you can root them in just water but the roots are not strong and are very fragile ... Now you can do them without a misting bed... get a say 3 inch deep by 12 inch's by 8 inch's plastic tout drill holes in the bottom place it in a pan without holes and add sand in the tote with holes drilled in it water the sand very well oh don't get real fine sand get sand for play box will work nor you can root without rooting hormone but they do help hard to root plants... Stick you cuttings about 1 inch x 1 inch apart place it by a window to get sun but where it wont get to hot... keep the sand moist and in a few weeks you will have roots not all will root but most will...make you cuttings 6 inch's long leave 2 leaves on the top and try to put 2 nodes below in the sand...
Now before someone says I nuts and maybe I am LOL I do this as a living I own a small nursery and do shrubs, tree's and flowering bushes never done peppers but they will root I do plants that live year round... I do my own cuttings and what I do this year some will be sold next year and some will be set out in the field for a couple years till they are larger and thus can be sold for more... for example my misting bed I have filled rooted and refilled 4 times this year for 4000 plants inside my office which doubles as a rooting area I have about.. 200 cutting that I am using for rooting without mist to help those who can not afford a misting bed or wants to just root a few cuttings at a time... hope this helps some.... Happy Growing....
Oh a added thought rooting a cutting from a mother stock plant is the only way to get a plant the same as the mother seeds do not produce a exact clone it will be close but not exactly like the mother.... that's why nurseries do cuttings to produce a plant just like the mother....
You have three types of growth on a plant soft wood semi hard and hardwood...
The easiest way and faster way is softwood in the spring about 6 weeks of growth the new stems re easy to root .
Hardwood is done in the winter after a hard freeze now the problem with peppers are they die from a freeze so best bet is to take cuttings last part of august and over winter them... In a mist bed I have it turn on at 7am and it goes off at 7pm during those times mist comes on for seconds every 10 minutes this keeps the humidity high so the cutting is kept moist while it forms roots... depending on what I am rooting I use sand or a mixture of sand and peat moss.... Once they have roots I wait a week or two then I pot them up and put them in shade to grow some more I do not fertilize them for that can kill them at a young age... Now you can root them in just water but the roots are not strong and are very fragile ... Now you can do them without a misting bed... get a say 3 inch deep by 12 inch's by 8 inch's plastic tout drill holes in the bottom place it in a pan without holes and add sand in the tote with holes drilled in it water the sand very well oh don't get real fine sand get sand for play box will work nor you can root without rooting hormone but they do help hard to root plants... Stick you cuttings about 1 inch x 1 inch apart place it by a window to get sun but where it wont get to hot... keep the sand moist and in a few weeks you will have roots not all will root but most will...make you cuttings 6 inch's long leave 2 leaves on the top and try to put 2 nodes below in the sand...
Now before someone says I nuts and maybe I am LOL I do this as a living I own a small nursery and do shrubs, tree's and flowering bushes never done peppers but they will root I do plants that live year round... I do my own cuttings and what I do this year some will be sold next year and some will be set out in the field for a couple years till they are larger and thus can be sold for more... for example my misting bed I have filled rooted and refilled 4 times this year for 4000 plants inside my office which doubles as a rooting area I have about.. 200 cutting that I am using for rooting without mist to help those who can not afford a misting bed or wants to just root a few cuttings at a time... hope this helps some.... Happy Growing....
Oh a added thought rooting a cutting from a mother stock plant is the only way to get a plant the same as the mother seeds do not produce a exact clone it will be close but not exactly like the mother.... that's why nurseries do cuttings to produce a plant just like the mother....
The output is far from the same. My first year red savina put out a few pods, but I bonchid and up potted in the spring. It was covered in pods before the new seasons plants ever started to flower. Since a few weeks after the frost left I have gotten multiple pods a week off that plant. Most of my new plants for this year have loads of pods, but are just now starting to ripen. The difference couldnt have been bigger. I was shockedRairdog said:
Here is a example of using a tote... this is white willow one of the easiest plants to root these are for a person that has a herbal shop and white willow is used to make a natural aspirin... I stuck these on 8/13/2015 with no leaves these was then put in my office by a window facing west... the second picture is one of them showing the roots as of today from just a stick to a plant 9 days... these will go one more week then I will pot them up..... the person who ordered these only wanted 3 cuttings to replace a tree that was hit by lightning last winter 2 of them will go out in the field for future cuttings and the rest will be potted up and sold next spring.. I stuck 52 of them...
Probably not, but I like to leave a leaf of 2. This way, while it hasn't yet rooted, I know the cutting is alive when I look at the healthy leaves. I wouldn't leave more than 2 or 3 small leaves on, as I'd be worried that the cutting might have to use too much energy to keep the leaves alive and this could potentially interfere with the rooting process.hotchill said:
I wonder when cloning if the pods will grow true even if the plant was cross pollinated the prior year?
frdlturner said:Here is a example of using a tote... this is white willow one of the easiest plants to root these are for a person that has a herbal shop and white willow is used to make a natural aspirin... I stuck these on 8/13/2015 with no leaves these was then put in my office by a window facing west... the second picture is one of them showing the roots as of today from just a stick to a plant 9 days... these will go one more week then I will pot them up..... the person who ordered these only wanted 3 cuttings to replace a tree that was hit by lightning last winter 2 of them will go out in the field for future cuttings and the rest will be potted up and sold next spring.. I stuck 52 of them...
An interesting method. I tried to save a broken branch off a pepper last year with the glass method. It only lived for about a week.
Have you tried the sandbox method with pepper clipping's?