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breeding Distance between different types of pepper plants to avoid cross pollination

Torch

Torch

Hey everyone so I have 24 plants in individual pots on my deck. I have 12 different types of pepper plants. Here are 2 pictures. One pic is to show the depth or length of my deck, and the other picture is how I currently have my pots positioned. The reason I have them grouped up like this is because i have a retractable awning only on this part of my deck. I heard that afternoon shade is important for the plants so i have them located where they all can be put in shade with one touch of a button.

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( So here they are positioned so awning can provide shade for all of them)


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(thats how big my deck is)

Questions

1. Is there a difference in space if I was to move the plants around my deck with more space, or is there really no difference since a bee can easily fly from one side of the deck to the next?

2. Should I just leave them close together?

3. How easy is it for everything to cross pollinate from my pic above?

4. is cross pollination a bad thing?

5. Any tips or reccomendations?

Thanks everyone!

(Not sure it might be already too late. They have been out there since Memorial week)
 
The cross pollination is only an issue if you were hoping to save seeds for next year, and actually I don't think you would be totally safe from that aspect if they were even on the same deck. It shouldn't present any problems with this years production.
 
I think it is a half a mile between them to prevent possible crosses. Just look up here on the forum how to isolate with tulle bags or some other type of fabric.
 
When I am ready for seed I remove all open flowers and mark all pods formed that I don't remove then I cover with Tulle fabric. I buy it at the fabric store and use the sewing machine to make them. stakes hold them up and I make them a little big to allow growth. Elastic string is used to tie around the top of the container for a seal and to hold it on. Once new pods form I mark them with cut pieces of straw and remove any markers I had on previous pods from when I covered it. Then I let it uncovered. End result is usually 5-10 pods marked that ripen and are collected for seed. This prevents pollinators, but not wind. Where I have them the wind is pretty consistent in direction so I keep them spread and up wind from others in the gardens. I have been playing with different colors to see if the light reflection affects growth, flowering, etc.

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Hey there,

"I heard that afternoon shade is important for the plants so i have them located where they all can be put in shade with one touch of a button."

Before the questions you asked I thought I'd address this one.. I don't know how hot it gets in your area but unless its over 98degrees.. These plants will not only be fine in full sun but love it, no matter what time of day.

1. Is there a difference in space if I was to move the plants around my deck with more space, or is there really no difference since a bee can easily fly from one side of the deck to the next?
You answered your own question there :) Unless you use fabric or netting.. Crossing could happen, no matter where you put them in your yard. A bee, ant, moth, etc.. is all it will take

2. Should I just leave them close together?
Up to you really, without the netting/fabric. It doesn't matter where or how close they are

3. How easy is it for everything to cross pollinate from my pic above?
Just as easy as it would be if they were another 50 feet apart IMO.

4. is cross pollination a bad thing?
Depends on the grower/person. I personally welcome new unknown hybrids. As long as your growing things you love.. would it be so bad if you a few make some babies for next year? lol..Theres alot of things to consider really..Are you selling the seeds? If so make sure customers or people you trade with KNOW they are open pollinated. So if they do end up with something not expected, they were aware already. If you WANT pure seeds and don't want a hybrid.. Isolate a branch or the whole plant. I've seen very few growers actually isolate plants.. Hybrids do happen, but, it is not as common as one might think. Commercial growers that have their plants miles and miles apart still end up with crosses and hybrids.. I don't think it's worth the effort but that's just me. Everyone's different!

5. Any tips or reccomendations?
Want to isolate? Use some tulle. Want some possible cool hybrids next year? Don't :)

Brandon
 
+1 Brandon and Justaguy! It's all about your purpose for growing!

I notice that Semillas la Palma spaces pubescens between other
varieties in his compartmentalized greenhouses since they do not
cross readily with other species of capsicum.
 
Awesome feedback! I've been away for about a week so I'm just catching up. Thanks everyone great info once again! This forum by far has the coolest people and very helpful. I've learned so much since joining here!
 
Above about 95F your plants will do better with shade in the evening but what time was it when the pictures were taken? Due to the tree and the house wall behind the plants, they are not getting as many hours of sun as they could.

I would move them where they get the most morning, then evening sun. It can make a substantial difference in their size and your really need some size to get good fruit yield by the first frost in MI.

1) If your plants get to be a good size, all 9 or more closest to the door are too close together and will be shading each other. Same goes for two pairs on the deck floor, but that's not an issue yet, only when they get to about half their full size.

Regarding cross pollination, there are no guarantees with the plants anywhere on your deck BUT if you space them apart you greatly reduce the odds of it. Also if they aren't all C. Annuum, put different species between each group of C. Annuum to reduce the chances of successful cross pollination.

2) Leave all of the same type of plant together and move the rest further away IF you want to reuse seed from this year's fruit. Note that growing a hybrid plant next year isn't a total loss, it's still a cross between two things you wanted to grow!

3) Very easy. I've never done a scientific study on distances and crosses but I'd guess with where your plants are now, (not yet knowing what species all of them are), that you might get around 10% cross pollinated fruit -> seeds. If you just want the fruit that's fine as it will be normal shape/size/etc.

4) See #2 and 3 above.

5) See all # above, and it's not too late if you want to separate or put netting over them, just don't save any seeds from fruit that grows from already pollinated flowers up to the point and time you move or net them.

What I do is almost nothing to prevent crosses. Among other places I have at least a couple dozen plants on the patio where they get the most sun possible (except leaving room for me to walk around all sides of the rows they're in) and same plant type grouped together. At opposite ends I'll put things I want seeds from that are more likely to cross, like habaneros or Choc. Jamaicans, BUT I need no seed from them as I have seed from past years. Every year the seed becomes less viable from aging but it's not a big deal to me to put more than one or two seeds in a pot to end up with one (the healthiest of the bunch) plant in it later.

Other seeds are a lot cheaper to buy in bulk. it's your call how much trouble to go to for high odds of non-cross seeds versus paying $1 for 50 or more seeds for common (consumer popular) pepper types.
 
Does c annuum never cross with c frutascens? Seed to Seed doesn't seem to answer that. And she says 500 feet is sufficient. I have one on my deck. 3.5 miles away one in a pot a couple hundred feet from the others. I think that will be good enough for those 2. The other peppers I will bag plants or blossoms or branches. And yes I need to do that ASAP. But if I have a couple similar varieties of frutascens that I don't mind letting cross, will they come true or mix with the annuum? Do we all here concur as Seed to Seed says that chinense is no longer a different group than annuum?
 
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