beer DIY Brew Gear

RocketMan said:
Cool, I have to make a contraption for continuous sparge. Take the sparge water and let it rain down on the grain bed. Thinking it'll be easy with some 1/2" PVC.
 
I just bought one of these ...
 
It'll come across the ponds one of these days ...
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111232472074
 
There's also ...
 
http://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1431653765&sr=8-3&keywords=high+temp+pump
 
http://www.amazon.com/Lightobject-EWP-2502HT12V-Temperature-100%C2%B0C-DC12V/dp/B007XHZ25G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1431653765&sr=8-2&keywords=high+temp+pump
 
http://www.amazon.com/Huhushop-TM-Solar-Circulation-Brushless/dp/B00DWORE5A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1431653765&sr=8-5&keywords=high+temp+pump
 
;)
 
I have just been through all of this last weekend =)
 
In the end, though, I worked *SO MUCH* this week, that I just ordered my system built and dropped the coin I made in the overage of working ...
 
If I spent the time building this stuff, I couldn't brew, which would be senseless ...
 
CHEERS!
 
RocketMan said:
Did you see anything on what the spray pattern of those come nozzles are like?
 
No, but ... we use something exceedingly similar at work in the CNC's to keep the diamonds running under water while cutting the stone ...
Works excellent ...
 
and Sterilizable ...
 
RocketMan said:
Nice and I bet you can control the pressure so this the spray doesn't get strong enough to disturbed the grain bed
 
It'll be interesting to see if the pattern works w/ less pressure, but the 24v pump in my recirc system has a pretty good flow rate ...
 
The spiral is an ever-decreasing internal cavity towards the tip, so that the most central part of the water column reaches the furthest obstruction at the tip ...
 
The word on the street in BIABville is that grain bed distubance and tunneling is not factor w/ full-volume, no-sparge BIAB because of the uber-thin mash, regardless ...
 
I will only sparge when I want to try to brew a batch closer to the full capacity of the pot (5 gal batch) ... In that case I will sparge the grain bag/basket into a container and add it to the boil as space becomes available after the hot break raft has formed ... I really don't plan to do much 5 gallon stuff, though ... I plan to use the two 5 gal kegs as fermenter's ...
 
I agree w/ most everyone that 1 gal batch is not a good enough use of time spent ... but 2.5 and 3 gal batches hit *my* sweet spot of wanting to be able to make the time worthwhile, while also allowing myself ample opportunity to brew, so I can gain experience brewing ... iteratively, as opposed to conceptually ...
 
And honestly, I don't have the space for enough cold storage to really have as many things going as I'd like as it is, but it would only be worse w/ 5 gal kegs than 2.5's and 3's ...
 
It's easy to say "but the cost of a 2.5 or 3 is 90%-100% of the cost for a 5" and miss the boat ... which is, that you have to spend the CO2, and you have to spend $ for the additional cubic feet of cold storage for the difference ...
 
So, yeah ... 2.5's and 3's for me ...
 
I'll take the 8-10x 32oz bottles / brew ... that works for me, and it will work nice for being able to trade and share w/ Wheebz ;) ...
 
Ok, this isn't brew gear, but it is for enjoyment while enjoying brews.

So we had. 55 inch Vizio HDTV go out in the Family Life Center. I offered to trouble shoot it and if possible to fix it. The staff decided to just replace it with a new one and so after replacing the T-Con and Inverters we have. 55" TV going on the wall. The thing about Vizio is they out source a lot of the parts they use and while it says Vizio on the outside, the inside of this one says LG. others say Sony.

6F04379C-042D-4B4C-9041-849C90959610_zpsxrjolmcy.jpg


Lots of connection possibilities.

connections
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So, I have 3 kegs and will be picking up a few more as I go on. I want to be able to tell what's what in each Keg. Also the kegs I have don't look the greatest. So, I picked up some Epoxy Appliance Paint.

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So first here are the 3 kegs as they came to me.

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Next, each keg gets a rubdown with 120 grit sandpaper.

4C50B74B-71F7-446B-90F4-BFD964DF41B5_zpszhnlpbro.jpg


Time for a little tape.

9616ECCE-B7DB-4598-BEF7-5702AD395392_zpszgfn9c2b.jpg


Spray away.

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Time to let these dry and then it's time for phase 2.
 
Nope, not quite that high tech, but it will make it easy to keep track of whats in each keg and even easier to set up. No programming involved and no electronics to worry about getting condensation in.
 
Now, some LED scrollers inset into dome beautifully done Black Walnut tap handles would be something to consider :)
 
Ok, time to get the final phase under way. First a little more tape to mask off the frame.
 
810BCB12-1840-44C9-8A9E-EDE054A6CB3A_zpsuoxm6g5b.jpg

 
And this is how I plan on labeling the kegs.
 
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I'm going to put on 2 coats of the Blackboard paint.
 
E4081F77-551C-4485-B1F1-88387BCF9FCE_zpssldymgp8.jpg

 
Once everything is good and dry and I can peal it all off I'll be able to tell just how far off my calibrated eyeball is, pretty far I'm guessing but then no one will ever really see the kegs once I can get my Keezer built ;)
 
Have a great day, It's Hump Dayyyyyeeee!
 
HTH, just follow my simple instructions and you'll be DIY'n in no time. Glad you like my builds and if there was one Inwoukd say that you have to really consider it would be the counterflow chiller, it's truly money for Florida Brewers.
 
Next up is a simple Heat Stick. The first part of the gear came in yesterday.

DC5053BB-0716-4533-822A-467232BC6652_zpscsau4hhd.jpg


Yep, that's an STC-1000 in degreesF so that Ican set it to 155 dF to mash and then 170 dF to heat sparge water then 212 dF or higher if needed to boil wort. This should be fun
 
Thinking I'll make a second one without the temp control for boiling wort and use this one to heat and hold water in the HLT. Then I'll get an element rated at 1200 or so to put on this one and use the one I have to boil as it's rated at 2000.
 
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