hydroponic DIY guide: how to make off grid hydroponic self watering container

[adrian089]

I looked over the all about soil post in these forums, but am unsure which type of mix would be recommended for this type of setup. Tracking down some pro-mix at a decent price seems to be a bit of a hassle so I'm planning on mixing my own.
 
This year will be my first time growing pretty much anything other than aquarium plants or pineapples so any help would be appreciated. I understand the concept of this type of setup and it's my understanding that I need a mix that will wick well, but i'm unfamiliar with what components do what exactly.

 

[eternalsoil]

I looked over the all about soil post in these forums, but am unsure which type of mix would be recommended for this type of setup. Tracking down some pro-mix at a decent price seems to be a bit of a hassle so I'm planning on mixing my own.
 
This year will be my first time growing pretty much anything other than aquarium plants or pineapples so any help would be appreciated. I understand the concept of this type of setup and it's my understanding that I need a mix that will wick well, but i'm unfamiliar with what components do what exactly.

I'm considering doing 1/2 peat moss 1/2 composted manure but I'm sure someone would have another good mix. I want cheap though since nutes will be in the water.

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[solid7]

I'm considering doing 1/2 peat moss 1/2 composted manure but I'm sure someone would have another good mix. I want cheap though since nutes will be in the water.

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I just posted one of my setups here: http://thehotpepper.com/topic/63550-when-do-you-eliminate-your-multiples/?p=1413789
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You can reuse that media for years.  What you've proposed won't work well.  It has no aeration, and will begin to compact from a combination of watering, and microbial decomposition of the peat.

 

[eternalsoil]

 
I just posted one of my setups here: http://thehotpepper.com/topic/63550-when-do-you-eliminate-your-multiples/?p=1413789
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You can reuse that media for years.  What you've proposed won't work well.  It has no aeration, and will begin to compact from a combination of watering, and microbial decomposition of the peat.

Perlite base then:
3 part coco coir
1 part perlite
1 part worm castings OR aged rabbit manure

So if I just add perlite to what I said and do more peat? All it needs to to be more airy? Or should I switch to coco coir from peat?
You bottom water with this setup.


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[solid7]

Perlite base then:
3 part coco coir
1 part perlite
1 part worm castings OR aged rabbit manure

So if I just add perlite to what I said and do more peat? All it needs to to be more airy? Or should I switch to coco coir from peat?
You bottom water with this setup.


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Perlite at the bottom, until just above the drain hole.  Everything above that layer is a mixture of the parts of the other ingredients, listed.
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I don't like peat in those buckets.  It doesn't have the same structure, and isn't reusable as many times.  But if it's what you have, it works.  The big consideration, is your nutrients.  I can, and always, recommend CNS17 Grow to either new growers, or those who have no issues with conventional growing.  It's one part, and the only thing you'll EVER need for that system.  IF you like organics, you can use fish hydrolosate, with a monthly dosing of calcium. (NOT Cal-Mag - just Cal)
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I top water when I'm feeding nutrients, and bottom water (from the drip irrigation system) every other time.

 

[solid7]

The other consideration for this system, is that if you mess something up, or something is out of whack, it is super simple to flush, and get right back to square one.  Coco flushes ten times easier than peat. 

 

[eternalsoil]

 
Perlite at the bottom, until just above the drain hole.  Everything above that layer is a mixture of the parts of the other ingredients, listed.
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I don't like peat in those buckets.  It doesn't have the same structure, and isn't reusable as many times.  But if it's what you have, it works.  The big consideration, is your nutrients.  I can, and always, recommend CNS17 Grow to either new growers, or those who have no issues with conventional growing.  It's one part, and the only thing you'll EVER need for that system.  IF you like organics, you can use fish hydrolosate, with a monthly dosing of calcium. (NOT Cal-Mag - just Cal)
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I top water when I'm feeding nutrients, and bottom water (from the drip irrigation system) every other time.

I'm not super concerned with being able to reuse the mixture. Plus this is specifically for this earth box type grow, not my traditional grow. Will probably look into those nutes though, that's what I've been debating about most.

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[ColdSmoke]

pro-mix HP if you're going to use the same fertilizer regimen. It's worth the few extra bucks

 

[solid7]

I'm not super concerned with being able to reuse the mixture. Plus this is specifically for this earth box type grow, not my traditional grow. Will probably look into those nutes though, that's what I've been debating about most.

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I threw that out because you said that you wanted cheap.  Apparently I've mistaken 'cheap' for 'good value' - as you've otherwise made incongruent statements.  You can re-use this recipe easily 6 times or more, when your peat will be dead and gone by 3 uses, max.  And I literally mean re-use.  Not refresh, regenerate, or otherwise add more "stuff" to the mix. I mean, pull out the old, and pop in the new, and grow.
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What I've just showed you is a concept similar to the Earthbox - but an upgrade, in my opinion. (and experience)  Not sure what you mean by a "traditional" grow, or if you're looking at one vs the other.  But I will assure you, that if you just want to drain to waste, like you would a "traditional" grow, then don't make the special bucket, but use the same mix and nutrients.  This potting mix is the key to the whole thing, no matter what you put it in.
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I have some nice plants in 1 and 3 gallon containers using the same potting mix.

 

[eternalsoil]

I was confused because watching the video from post #1 he talks about how last year he used a mix of perilite vermiculite and peat.

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[adrian089]

 
Perlite at the bottom, until just above the drain hole.  Everything above that layer is a mixture of the parts of the other ingredients, listed.
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I don't like peat in those buckets.  It doesn't have the same structure, and isn't reusable as many times.  But if it's what you have, it works.  The big consideration, is your nutrients.  I can, and always, recommend CNS17 Grow to either new growers, or those who have no issues with conventional growing.  It's one part, and the only thing you'll EVER need for that system.  IF you like organics, you can use fish hydrolosate, with a monthly dosing of calcium. (NOT Cal-Mag - just Cal)
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I top water when I'm feeding nutrients, and bottom water (from the drip irrigation system) every other time.

 
Thanks. Can't wait to try it out in a few weeks.

 

[lek]

This is hybrid soil + katky hydroponics setup.  If anyone want more oxygen into the reservoir, you only need small cheap epoxy solar panel and air pump like this:
 

 

 
 
 

 

[solid7]

Are you posting something else?  Or are you suggesting that this contraption works with the method that I posted?
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This is hybrid soil + katky hydroponics setup.  If anyone want more oxygen into the reservoir, you only need small cheap epoxy solar panel and air pump like this:
 

 
 
 

 

 

[lek]

Are you posting something else?  Or are you suggesting that this contraption works with the method that I posted?

Just add oxygen to the original post.

 

[solid7]

In either case, this is not hybrid soil + Kratky.  The method is drain-to-waste + passive hydro.  Or, if you cover the top, just plain passive (wicking) hydro.  Kratky is a very specific method of passive hydro, that relies on not having to refill the reservoir. 
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The point isn't to have a DWC system in the bottom of the container.  The point is that there is a layer of oxygen between the water and the floor of the container.  The air will be naturally pulled in to that zone from outside.  Putting an airstone isn't going to be of much use - especially in the summertime - as the temperature of the water will dictate how much dissolved oxygen can even be absorbed by the water.  The reservoir isn't deep enough for the bubbles to be absorbed properly, even if the temperature is optimal. (because, as you know, a bubble must spend a sufficient amount of time in the water column, for the oxygen to be assimilated into the solution that it's traveling through)
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This system operates just fine by allowing the normal air/water interchange that happens as water is drawn into the wick, pulling oxygen into the reservoir with it.  You can test a grow of airstone vs non-airstone, and I'll bet you a bowl of chili, that you'll never see a significant difference.
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Point being - don't waste your time or money with an airstone in this type of setup.

 

[lek]

Point being - don't waste your time or money with an airstone in this type of setup.

 
LOL... i don't wanna explain much coz it's off-topic but some growers doesn't use hydroponics fertilizer. 
 They stay away from any chemical application and stick to a strictly natural and organic solution from nature.  For the example, worm tea, they will definitely need oxygen in the reservoir.  

 

[solid7]

 
LOL... i don't wanna explain much coz it's off-topic but some growers doesn't use hydroponics fertilizer. 
 They stay away from any chemical application and stick to a strictly natural and organic solution from nature.  For the example, worm tea, they will definitely need oxygen in the reservoir.  

 
My point stands.  There is not sufficient water column to dissolve any significant amount of oxygen with that crude device.  And my point also stands about this type of system.  You're not teaching me anything, because I use this system.  I use worm and manure teas, also.  And no, they don't require added oxygen.  They take it in through the same air/water interchange as any other nutrient type.
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Do your homework about how wicking systems work.  Without a sufficient layer of empty space between the nutrient solution and the substrate, NONE of them work.  Not hydro, not Kratky, nothing.

 

[lek]

 
 
Do your homework about how wicking systems work.  Without a sufficient layer of empty space between the nutrient solution and the substrate, NONE of them work.  Not hydro, not Kratky, nothing.

 
no need to do homework coz i had graduated… LOL 
there is a way to make it work as long as you work along with the nature.

i don’t wanna talk about bio stimulus and/or other advance topics here, it’s off-topic.

 

[solid7]

 
no need to do homework coz i had graduated… LOL 
there is a way to make it work as long as you work along with the nature.
 
i don’t wanna talk about bio stimulus and/or other advance topics here, it’s off-topic.

 
You don't need to take threads on a tangent, because I'm talking specifically about your previous statement being false.  Stay with the topic, rather than diverting, so as not to be proven wrong about this one.
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Your statement was false. Is/was/will be.  The system being discussed is proven, its mechanisms well-known.
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If you have something to say about a system that is not this, by all means, post it.  Let it be questioned/critiqued, etc, on its own merits. (as some of us have already done)  As opposed to preaching the gospel of "Nobody else does it naturally enough", in every other thread.  Some people don't give a shit that you grow your plants up from the nano-level, and yet, manage to reconcile science and new-age philosophy. 
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Almost forgot...  

 

[ColdSmoke]

boom!