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pests Fungus gnats!

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can i ask what dilutions you tested with?
Sure. It's been a while, but I think up to at least 1:1 with 3% H2O2 - high enough I would be concerned about the roots based on prior experience using an H2O2 dip to deal with root rot. You can always put a piece of potato in the soil to dredge up a few and hit them with different concentrations to see what the results are like. My conclusion was it would take concentrations higher than the roots could handle in order to dispatch the larva. I don't know how their eggs might be affected, so even at concentrations high enough to wipe out the larva, the eggs might remain viable. The nice thing about BTI is that it should stay in the soil and deal with the larva as the eggs continue to hatch out.

It feels like fungus gnat central in our climate here. It seems each winter there will be period when they get bad, whether somewhat bad or really bad, but then the populations reduce without treatment. Right now there are a few here and there, but it's hardly noticeable, though a few months ago it was worse. Another thing. My understanding is that if there's deteriorating bio-matter in the soil they'll eat at that before going after the roots, so they shouldn't have their fullest potential adverse affect on the roots unless one's growing in an inert medium.
 
Sure. It's been a while, but I think up to at least 1:1 with 3% H2O2 - high enough I would be concerned about the roots based on prior experience using an H2O2 dip to deal with root rot. You can always put a piece of potato in the soil to dredge up a few and hit them with different concentrations to see what the results are like. My conclusion was it would take concentrations higher than the roots could handle in order to dispatch the larva. I don't know how their eggs might be affected, so even at concentrations high enough to wipe out the larva, the eggs might remain viable. The nice thing about BTI is that it should stay in the soil and deal with the larva as the eggs continue to hatch out.

It feels like fungus gnat central in our climate here. It seems each winter there will be period when they get bad, whether somewhat bad or really bad, but then the populations reduce without treatment. Right now there are a few here and there, but it's hardly noticeable, though a few months ago it was worse. Another thing. My understanding is that if there's deteriorating bio-matter in the soil they'll eat at that before going after the roots, so they shouldn't have their fullest potential adverse affect on the roots unless one's growing in an inert medium.
Every season before we plant our seeds we turn the lights on weeks before we put seeds under them. Every season from out of the blue
come hundreds of Fungus Gnats that get stuck on the 4" x 6" sticky paper we hang from the lights. By the time we set our flats out with pellets & seeds, the gnats seem to have gone. I can't say for sure but it seems that the gnats have a spring hatch out & if there is no food & a sticky welcome mat it may just mess things up for them.

When the seedlings get their second leaves they go into small pots with CoCo Coir, Worm castings, natural supplements. Worm castings a Fungus gnats paradise, although I use 2 Bio fungicides to water them & that prevents fungus the gnats primary food source. In past I have had entire seed plantings ruined by the FG & had to buy from local sources to get my gardens going. Can't say for sure however so far trapping
& preventing them from getting food like soil fungus seems to be working well so far. With all the things that can affect our seedlings none are as bad as the fungus & disease in our soil. If a natural Bio Fungicide can keep our soil & plants in tip top fighting shape then that's a real magic bullet in our pistols.
 
thank you Canedog and Marturo.

I hit a tray last night with 1 part HP 3% - 5 parts water and I still found some maggots still alive next day... so I don't think it was that effective?

What bio fungicides do you recommend?
 
thank you Canedog and Marturo.

I hit a tray last night with 1 part HP 3% - 5 parts water and I still found some maggots still alive next day... so I don't think it was that effective?

What bio fungicides do you recommend?

Both fungicides are living Bacillus organisms that work with the plants immune systems.

1. https://www.amazon.com/Disease-Micr...&qid=1711911837&sprefix=cease+,aps,434&sr=8-5

2. https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-...1902&sprefix=gff+bio+fungicide,aps,263&sr=8-6
 
Just this year Im have seen some Organic suppliers were saying to use Bio Fungicides with your seedlings to prevent many
seedling problems before they start. I also spray it on Tomatoes, apples, peaches pears, etc all season with fantastic results so far.
 
Both fungicides are living Bacillus organisms that work with the plants immune systems.
I don't suppose you have any experience using either of those against Anthracnose?

I found some studies that seem to suggest they help but I couldn't find any of the published conclusions...
 
I don't suppose you have any experience using either of those against Anthracnose?

I found some studies that seem to suggest they help but I couldn't find any of the published conclusions...

Couldn't find? I know just what you mean.
I have lived in the NC Mountains for over 40 years.
Battled one blight after another. The Apple growers are all but a dying breed her due to Bacterial blights.
For awhile the Chemical fungicides helped but when it took antibiotics to treat the trees also failed after a while also.

Three seasons ago I first learned of Bio fungicides that may be the real thing. Not a plant extract that worked in one way
a real living Bacillus that is found in nature. Last season we started using both Bio fungicides Cease for the Bacterial blight
affecting our Apple & pear trees. Tomatoes, fruit trees, Cucurbits, peppers, eggplant, all did not or did not get as badly
affected as without the bio Fungicides.

Calling every Organic supplier over the last few years has not been very productive, however I can't remember just where
I read where it may be a good idea to water your seedlings with bio fungicides, ðŸĪŠ Ya think LOL.

Please continue to research the subject. I have learned a lot in the past couple years, I believe that this is a real special tool
in our growing tool kit. To be continued. 😉







 
Steinernema feltiae nematodes... have used these a couple of times, and after little more than a week all fungus gnats are gone!
Hi MarcV - i bought some nematodes, and they have worked! i tried mosquito bits/dunks, and they didn't seem to make any difference. Maybe they were old? Im not sure?

I wish i had used them initially to kill any potential gnat eggs in the compost and have the soil charged with nematodes as a safety measure.
 
i have fungus gnats BAD!

will i need to rinse all the roots before i plant out to my backyard raised beds?

or will the potential future harm become negligible because they will be moving into 1000x more soil than they are in now?

can the gnats remain or become a worse problem outdoors, and "permanently" contaminate my garden beds?

i have no experience rinsing or separating root balls, i always just drop the whole contents of the small pot into holes dug in the soil of the beds.

also i have 79 plants, so i'd prefer to take the least effort possible lol
 
i find gnats thrive indoors in sterile conditions but when outdoors nature balances things out and they naturally diminish.

sounds like aphids are like that, way more deadly inside because nothing to keep them in check.

i suppose that if the gnats "gnaturally" move about in the soil as any animal would, they should disperse away from the root balls.

but it's such good eatin', and animals also tend to stay nearby to an ample food supply.

thoughts?
 
''gnaturally'' lol

Keeping the plants healthy & vigorous is another good tip. My poly tunnel is full of holes, so hopefully, lots of good insects get the chance to keep the bad ones in check.
 
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