Grafted multipepper

CraftyFox said:
Solid.. The video KS has on it is pretty good for the basics of it.

Thomas.. I didn't see you mention using a bag over for the moisture retention.. Did you not use one?

It'd be interesting to send some cuttings thru the mail and see if they will still graft okay.. 
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Ahm... no clue you should use a bag for moisture retention, Fox. It worked eitherway. :lol:
I did make sure the plant was well watered before grafting.
The tomatoes were prone to drying out right after the graft tho! A bag might be helpfull there!
 
I wonder if cuttings can stay hydrated long enough before being grafted. They do wilt when you graft them fresh, but I feel they do benefit from being very fresh.
Peppers are so sturdy tho, they'd probably bounce right back anyway!
 
ThomasDeco said:
 
Ahm... no clue you should use a bag for moisture retention, Fox. It worked eitherway. :lol:
I did make sure the plant was well watered before grafting.
The tomatoes were prone to drying out right after the graft tho! A bag might be helpfull there!
 
I wonder if cuttings can stay hydrated long enough before being grafted. They do wilt when you graft them fresh, but I feel they do benefit from being very fresh.
Peppers are so sturdy tho, they'd probably bounce right back anyway!
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Maybe using something like waterbeads to pack for shipping.. I'll bet weather is going to be the biggest variable, next to stock age/health. I had plans to try the beads in cloning and I was trying to find someone who had already, last time I was going to reply to this,  but can't even remember if I did.. RTU. 
 
Guess the easiest way -and the most fun one- is to grow everything yourself ;).
 
 
 
Noticed yesterday a dozen of thrips on Frank the Pepper.  :banghead: Never had those suckers before.
Gonna bomb them with Pyrethrine tonight.
 
The aquarium LED light (a 40cm/15inch, 28W light bar) that it's under, doesn't cut it either. Grow's stunted, only the flowers seem to keep slowly growing. Wrong light color and not powerful enough I suppose.
 
Anybody any experience with using LED floodlights as lighting? I've been checking out specialized growing lights, but the prices are a bit steep. Especially when you're trying to light more than a square foot... 
 
I never see anyone use or mention Parafilm grafting tape when talking about grafting peppers.  It's the standard for grafting trees since it's strong, flexible, biodegradable, breathable and holds moisture.  Is it the DIY spirit or is there a downside to using grafting tape?
 
TxCollector said:
I never see anyone use or mention Parafilm grafting tape when talking about grafting peppers.  It's the standard for grafting trees since it's strong, flexible, biodegradable, breathable and holds moisture.  Is it the DIY spirit or is there a downside to using grafting tape?
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I used Parafilm (lab tape) on my most recent grafts. You can see it in the 2nd and 3rd picture of the first link I posted on the previous page.
 
It can be a little tough to work with (and less effective I think) on smaller stems and branches, particularly the more flexible they are.  But it will split off on its own as the branches grow, for what that's worth.  A bit like dissolvable stitches.  I think I'll try Thomas' method next time as he got great results and the Parafilm's been a pain at times.
 
CaneDog said:
 
I used Parafilm (lab tape) on my most recent grafts. You can see it in the 2nd and 3rd picture of the first link I posted on the previous page.
 
It can be a little tough to work with (and less effective I think) on smaller stems and branches, particularly the more flexible they are.  But it will split off on its own as the branches grow, for what that's worth.  A bit like dissolvable stitches.  I think I'll try Thomas' method next time as he got great results and the Parafilm's been a pain at times.
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Gotcha.  Is there any difference between the lab tape and the grafting tape?  The cost of the lab tape is 10X the grafting tape.  Maybe because it's sterile?
 
TxCollector said:
Gotcha.  Is there any difference between the lab tape and the grafting tape?  The cost of the lab tape is 10X the grafting tape.  Maybe because it's sterile?
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I don't want to hijack Thomas' thread - though we are a little bit on topic - but I don't know what differences there might be.  I use the lab tape when I'm plating, so I have it around.  Lab supplies seem crazy overpriced to me across the board, so it could be different or they could simply price according to their different target markets.  I'd expect grafting tape to be sterile too. And maybe a little thicker/stronger?  Just guessing though.
 
CaneDog said:
 
I don't want to hijack Thomas' thread - though we are a little bit on topic - but I don't know what differences there might be.  I use the lab tape when I'm plating, so I have it around.  Lab supplies seem crazy overpriced to me across the board, so it could be different or they could simply price according to their different target markets.  I'd expect grafting tape to be sterile too. And maybe a little thicker/stronger?  Just guessing though.
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Please do hijack the thread! This is a place to share and learn from each other. No worries man.
 
Your answer is actually interesting for me as well. I assumed the tape would be some much easier to work with, but I couldn't be bothered to spend the money of an entire roll of tape to do 8 little grafts.
 
I didn't use anything sterile, but i did hold my precision knife in a flame for a few seconds.  :fireball:
 
 
The thrips on Frank are gone  :dance: . I really need to get some decent lighting though. The tomato grafts are slowly shutting down  :cry: .
 
Nobody any experience with LED flood lights?
 
I'm using those Spot grow LED's from Menards mostly.. Like 7 or 8 of them. They are nice for a few plants, and very mobile.. They mostly don't have diffusion lens on them now so you want good air flow to prevent spot burning on the leaves. If your plants sit still under them they will burn.. Same with my UFO LED. 
Personally, if I could start again, I'd look at other options. 
Not sure if that's what you meant by flood light, but that is what I'm using mainly. 
 
 I'll be treating the plant again in about two weeks, and I assume they will stay away then  :dance: .
 
For now I only have the Frankenpepper that goes under the light. The fasciated chocolate hab is just on the window sill.
I do plan to start out early in the season, with around 40ish plants. With a little squeezing, they should occupy right around 1.5m²/ 15sq feet. 
 
Not sure if that's realistic haha!
 
Good advice on the leaf burn, Fox! Those Menard lights do interesting tho! I'll deff check them out.
 
The flood lights (probably not the right English word) are something like this:
 
https://www.samelight.eu/osram-led-bouwlamp-2x-50w-4000k-2x4500lm-ip65-met-statief-42385?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxK2B8_3m5QIV1uJ3Ch1lCQw6EAQYASABEgL_z_D_BwE 
 
(no idea if I can post links here, sorry if it's not allowed).
 
Those would cover quite some square feet  :rolleyes:  :?:
 
I've had really good results with small plants under a 4 bulb T8 fixture. It was 30 bucks, and I had to put a cord on it. I have a diy strip led light(~$100), and a couple I built from Wal-Mart led shop lights(~$70 each), and a 4 bulb T5that also needed a cord(~$100).

For the price and power usage, I feel like the T8 gives me the best results.
 
Walchit said:
I've had really good results with small plants under a 4 bulb T8 fixture. It was 30 bucks, and I had to put a cord on it. I have a diy strip led light(~$100), and a couple I built from Wal-Mart led shop lights(~$70 each), and a 4 bulb T5that also needed a cord(~$100).

For the price and power usage, I feel like the T8 gives me the best results.
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Ha.  When I heard "flood light" it made me think of industrial lighting and your T8's you've posted about are what had come to mind.  Was following up to see if the footprint and plant height made sense. 
 
To my thinking, a key issue is how much effective penetration the lighting gets relative to the height of the plant.  If they don't get too tall and they canopy-up well, T8's could be great.  But with taller plants where more depth of effective penetration is appropriate, then LED would likely be more effective.
 
An option for a single plant is compact fluorescent, which can be super cheap and fairly adaptable using standard single-bulb fixtures.  They also degrade quickly over distance, though, so are better for smaller plants.  Can use a bigger bulb over top or two smaller bulbs angled down and in from each side or other options depending on the specifics of the application. 
 
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