yes its for people who skipped "pre germination" aka direct sowUmbra said:Thanks for the clarification.
In the "1st Transplanting" section of your FAQ it mentions the humidity dome. That's what threw me.
So the heat and humidity dome is really only necessary in the germination stage? The next stage is all about light, air, and water
there's lots of threads on gardenweb forums about it in container gardening / hot peppers section.TylerJones said:How do you like the 5-1-1 mix? Were you adding worm castings to it as well?
Colors are usually measured in temperature or wavelength.
Since you read the above article about PAR you understand that soft / warm white aka around 3000k is not that great.
Daylight 5000k and cool white 6500k are the best because they have more blue than yellow.
This results in a quantity called the yield photon flux (YPF). The red curve in the graph shows that photons around 610 nm (orange-red) have the highest amount of photosynthesis per photon. However, because short-wavelength photons carry more energy per photon, the maximum amount of photosynthesis per incident unit of energy is at a longer wavelength, around 650 nm (deep red).
It has been noted that there is considerable misunderstanding over the effect of light quality on plant growth and many manufacturers claim significantly increased plant growth due to light quality (spectral distribution or the ratio of the colors). A widely used estimate of the effect of light quality on photosynthesis comes from the Yield Photon Flux (YPF) curve, which indicates that orange and red photons between 600 to 630 nm can result in 20 to 30% more photosynthesis than blue or cyan photons between 400 and 540 nm.
people in very hot climates like az use shade cloth to keep em cooler.Jmahoney said:I have found more on germination temps than maintenance temps so forgive me if this is a repeat question. The only thing I really find is general grow temps. In one of the first posts on this topic, I see that in general, pepper plants should be kept around 70-90 deg F. I have recently bought a mature Carolina Reaper plant, growing in a bucket lid pot with a mixture of clay pellets and coconut husks. It's about 4 1/2' tall and about 3' in diameter. Currently growing about a dozen peppers. I live in Arizona and our temps are going to me in the triple digits by this weekend.
My question is, should I go by the general grow temp ranges I have seen or is a mature plant like this strong enough to handle 110 deg F+ temps? We have been in the 90 deg F+ range for a couple weeks now and it seems to be holding up quite well. I just really don't want to lose this treasure!
Thanks in advance!
And that is really where my question needs a more specific answer, because I know that by shading the plant it will help reduce the temp because it's obviously not in the direct sunlight, but while the outside temp in direct sunlight may be 115 def F to 120 deg F, the shaded temp can still be over 110 deg F.juanitos said:people in very hot climates like az use shade cloth to keep em cooler.
70-90 are optimal temps.Jmahoney said:And that is really where my question needs a more specific answer, because I know that by shading the plant it will help reduce the temp because it's obviously not in the direct sunlight, but while the outside temp in direct sunlight may be 115 def F to 120 deg F, the shaded temp can still be over 110 deg F.
If 110 deg F shaded is ok then that's good news. During late June, July, and August, it rarely dips below the 100 deg F mark at night but of course, there's no sun to worry about during those times.juanitos said:70-90 are optimal temps.
110 is ok as long as they are cooling down again at night (seems like temps get back to 70-80 so thats good)
same goes for low temps.. 40 is ok as long as they are getting warmer in the day
as long as you have shade cloth you are fine.
if you have automatic watering you can set it to water during the hottest part of the day to help cool down everything.
you might post a thread about this or search for "hydroponic arizona" or something similar see if anyone does it. You're right to worry about high water temps with outdoor hydro. not sure if that will work without chiller. and chillers are quite expensive to run.Jmahoney said:If 110 deg F shaded is ok then that's good news. During late June, July, and August, it rarely dips below the 100 deg F mark at night but of course, there's no sun to worry about during those times.
Right now I have the bucket lid pot sitting in a catch tray and water it twice a day (morning and night) but I'm going to be converting it to a Dutch Bucket style set up with a timer and automatic watering system. My concern with that is though that to keep the bacteria growth down, I need to paint the bucket black which of course draws the heat and increases the water temp. I'm worried about the roots being in hot water. I may wait until fall to convert to the Dutch Bucket when maybe I can put together a water cooling system as well.
Bought the Carolina Reaper plant from a guy that owns the hydroponics store where I buy my plant nutrients from. He was actually supplying a local restaurant with the Reapers for their Suicide Hot Wings, so I know they're hot. The Habaneros I bought as a start plant from Lowe's.juanitos said:where did you get seeds from?
BumpJmahoney said:Does anyone know if the length of time, once "visibly" ripe, that the pepper is left on the plant has anything to do with how hot the pepper becomes?
The reason I ask is that I have both Habanero and a Carolina Reaper plants and I have made salsa with both so far, only to be sadly disappointed with the lack of intense heat from either, but especially the Reaper.
The first batch of salsa I made was with the Reaper and while the flavor was incredible, the heat was only enough to make my nose run a bit. I was hoping (as well as expecting) it to be hot enough to make me think twice about taking another scoop. I used one fresh Reaper off the plant, nice and bright red, and only 3 tomatoes, a half onion and my other "secret" ingredients lol, so I don't think it's the ratios that is the issue.
The second batch I made just this weekend. I used the same recipe, just used the Habaneros instead (nice deep orange in color). This time however, I started out with 4 Habaneros and 4 tomatoes. It was the equivalent of "Mild" store bought salsa as far as heat goes. I then added 2 more peppers only to bring it to a light medium heat.....sadness ensued.
So, that all being said, any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.
even unripe green fruits are very hot on superhots. ripeness is more about the flavor(getting rid of chlorophyll green taste) / sugar content (sweetness).Jmahoney said:Bump
In that case, I may buy some Habanero seeds or maybe just switch to some Moruga Scorpions, and start an indoor plant using a Dutch Bucket. It's getting too hot here and I don't know that the outdoor plant I have right now will make it long enough to produce a second crop.juanitos said:even unripe green fruits are very hot on superhots. ripeness is more about the flavor(getting rid of chlorophyll green taste) / sugar content (sweetness).
i would say, you have genetics that aren't very hot.
I used 1 reaper and it spiced up a whole 1 gallon pot of chili to medium heat.
Or you just have some wierd problem with the first pods and next pods will be better hopefully?
otherwise i'd say just buy from someone with good reviews in the vendor vault like buckeyepepper
local places are notorious for not having good genetics.
you can check glogs for someone in AZ and ask them what they do.Jmahoney said:adsf