I've noticed that certain varieties prefer partial sun and other prefer full sun. I would like to get some opinions what folks feel the ideal sun exposure conditions for certain varieties are.
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Ideal sun exposure
- Thread starter RedtailForester
- Start date
Here has been my rule of thumb. I go by leaf size, the smaller the leaves on the plant the more sun the plant will tolerate. I put Frutescens in the most scorching areas and Chinense I try to shade at least 4 hours a day in the Summer. I think that you will find similar properties thoughout the plant kingdom. Most desert plants have very small leaves (cacti), and most plants on the floor of the rain forest have extremely large leaves.
Very good point!
All of my peppers regardless of type get the same amount of sun a day.. From sun rise until around 230pm they get full sun the rest of the time they are in full shade and I've yet to notice any issues in terms of growth, flower production, pod set etc etc... So far everything seems to be on track. It also helps with containers that way the root zone isn't getting melted all day every day.
-J
-J
I am under the impression that all peppers can tolerate maximum sun all day, in and of itself, but it is really the temperature and moisture as what cause issues. So, for example, if you are in a too-hot zone, reducing the amount of light will also incrementally reduce the temperature. Likewise, higher temperatures (and/or arid conditions) usually require more watering, so reducing the sunlight may reduce the need for watering a bit because it reduced the temperature. But the plants need light for photosynthesis and (hence) pod production, so the more light, the better (up to some maximum, since plants need rest, too.)
Over and above the readings I've done on the subject (from university sites and agricultural agencies), I look at the pepper plants I grew last year. Because of the direction of the house relative to the path of the sun, they got full sunlight all but a couple hours of the day. (Note I don't live in an extremely hot zone.) They were all extremely happy, productive plants until we started getting excessive rain for too-long periods of time. I had annuums, bacatuums, chinense, and pubescens, and they were all quite happy with extensive full sun each day.
Over and above the readings I've done on the subject (from university sites and agricultural agencies), I look at the pepper plants I grew last year. Because of the direction of the house relative to the path of the sun, they got full sunlight all but a couple hours of the day. (Note I don't live in an extremely hot zone.) They were all extremely happy, productive plants until we started getting excessive rain for too-long periods of time. I had annuums, bacatuums, chinense, and pubescens, and they were all quite happy with extensive full sun each day.
(reply to theghostpepperstore.com)- hmm, thats interesting about the leaf size, which makes sense, but if I remember my classes correctly, I'm pretty sure the size of the leaf is more based towards transpiration of water through the leaves, but it is the same thing, unless you want to water the Chinense a bit more to compensate for the larger water loss through the leaves, desert plants have small leaves so they don't loose as much water through them, and in the rain forest, there is so much rain and water, they need larger leaves to allow for more transpiration. (and to try to catch more light since the canopy is generally pretty thick in the lower levels, talking about this just wish I could be back in the rain forest in Costa Rica, that was a great bio trip lol)
but with that said, if it has worked for you, then why not, and the ideas kind of go side-by-side,. I personally have found that my Tepin plants at least when they were smaller were more prone to turn purple earlier and didn't like as much light than the other plants, and actually right now the ones in the back that don't get as much light are doing really well, where the 2 that are off to the side but get more light are having some issues with curling/kind of an edema problem because I think the water can't leave the leaves fast enough with the direct light with the humidity in the grow tent..or something like that. I'm not really worried about it now since they are still in containers and they will be going outside in another 2-3 weeks.
also so far the Pretty Purple Peppers (small ornamental plant) did not like as much direct light when they were younger, but they seem to be fine now with a little more light.. I will have to see how they all work out this summer.. I'm just planning on having the taller ones in the back and smaller ones in the front so they can all get as much light as possible.. but there are a few trees that will shade parts of the garden for the last 2 or so hours of the day.. but not really much shade
+1
but with that said, if it has worked for you, then why not, and the ideas kind of go side-by-side,. I personally have found that my Tepin plants at least when they were smaller were more prone to turn purple earlier and didn't like as much light than the other plants, and actually right now the ones in the back that don't get as much light are doing really well, where the 2 that are off to the side but get more light are having some issues with curling/kind of an edema problem because I think the water can't leave the leaves fast enough with the direct light with the humidity in the grow tent..or something like that. I'm not really worried about it now since they are still in containers and they will be going outside in another 2-3 weeks.
also so far the Pretty Purple Peppers (small ornamental plant) did not like as much direct light when they were younger, but they seem to be fine now with a little more light.. I will have to see how they all work out this summer.. I'm just planning on having the taller ones in the back and smaller ones in the front so they can all get as much light as possible.. but there are a few trees that will shade parts of the garden for the last 2 or so hours of the day.. but not really much shade
+1
I will never let my plants get hit directly from 4-6 in the summer heat of the NC Piedmont ! I am going to place my healthiest purple leaf in that heat just to see if it fairs better. My Bishops Hat did have hand sized leafs but that took most of the season. I am not sure that if placed in my micro climate during direct sun it would have lasted long enough to develop those large lower leaves.
Maxsack,
I completely agree and I believe you are remembering the information correctly, at least from what I remember from my classes. I probably should have prefaced my statement with the fact that leaves size doesn't actually indicate how much sun a plant can tolerate. The idea is that because of the increased transpiration of the larger leafed species I give them a break during the crazy hot St. Louis summers. If I had a milder summer climate I would definitely put the chinenses out in full sun all day.
When I do not shade the chinenses I have to overwater a lot just to keep them from burning up. This causes even more problems like infertility and poor quality pods. Like I said, I only use this idea as a general guidelieg and not any kind of scientific "law". Like anything else, I am sure there are plenty of exceptions to the rule.
I completely agree and I believe you are remembering the information correctly, at least from what I remember from my classes. I probably should have prefaced my statement with the fact that leaves size doesn't actually indicate how much sun a plant can tolerate. The idea is that because of the increased transpiration of the larger leafed species I give them a break during the crazy hot St. Louis summers. If I had a milder summer climate I would definitely put the chinenses out in full sun all day.
When I do not shade the chinenses I have to overwater a lot just to keep them from burning up. This causes even more problems like infertility and poor quality pods. Like I said, I only use this idea as a general guidelieg and not any kind of scientific "law". Like anything else, I am sure there are plenty of exceptions to the rule.
AlabamaJack
eXtreme
seems I read somewhere that 6 hours direct sun is considered "full sun"....don't quote me on that but I remember something like that...this comment is probably off subject so forgive me
I hear you armac, ya think? :} but one thing is for sure if you get a pod to survive the heat for awhile here in Texas that sucker will have alot of heat inside for sure...BTW nice fish :}
I bought some yellow cayenne and orange habs recently. I don't know how much stock you guys put in the information on the packaging, but it said 'Full sun - 6+ hours'
Last year when I planted my peppers, I had limited planting options, so I put them on the west side of the house, where they didn't get morning sun. They didn't produce any peppers until pretty late in the season... [not sure if that was a result of the less than ample lighting... ??] This year, I put them in big pots, so I could put them out earlier, keep them in full sun, and bring them inside just in case of a late frost.
I live in south-west Missouri, and it can get pretty hot here... so I may be moving them in and out of shade as well to give them a rest...
Last year when I planted my peppers, I had limited planting options, so I put them on the west side of the house, where they didn't get morning sun. They didn't produce any peppers until pretty late in the season... [not sure if that was a result of the less than ample lighting... ??] This year, I put them in big pots, so I could put them out earlier, keep them in full sun, and bring them inside just in case of a late frost.
I live in south-west Missouri, and it can get pretty hot here... so I may be moving them in and out of shade as well to give them a rest...
Excellent topic Dan!
All my plants are planted in the ground, in full sun, all day long, whether they like it or not, because that's where my garden is located. Besides that the garden is surrounded by trees on 3 sides, and a hillside on the 4th side, so that almost no wind reaches the plants in the hottest part of the summer. But maybe my experience with a few different varieties all under the same hellishly bright, hot conditions would be helpful—
Like theghostpepperstore said, Tabasco seems to take a lickin' and keep on tickin' no matter how hot or bright it gets, producing at near optimum levels throughout the hottest months of the summer. Similarly, none of the chinenses seem the least bit rattled by full sun, except for blossom drop in the 95ºF+ weather. Most all annuums seem to sag in the heat of the day, and produce significantly fewer and smaller fruit in the very hot months, with the exception of Thai Chile (smaller leaves), which behaves more like Tabasco. The New Mexico types and Piment d'Espelette do poorly in the middle of the summer here—The plants almost stop growing completely, develop all kinds of root and leaf problems and the few fruit they produce are prune-sized. In the cooler months they don't seem to ever really recover from their midsummer suffering. I suspect, however, that our high humidity may also have something to do with that. California Wonder and Poblano, which have honking huge leaves, produce miserable, stunted, tiny fruit during the long, hot days, but in the later, cooler months I will get nice big, juicy, pods. As for baccatum, the large-leafed Aji Amarillo plants continue to grow but produce absolutely no fruit in the long, hot days, but in October there will be some very nice pods 6-8 inches long. Guampinha de Veado, a small-leafed, small-podded baccatum, seems to produce well all summer long...
All my plants are planted in the ground, in full sun, all day long, whether they like it or not, because that's where my garden is located. Besides that the garden is surrounded by trees on 3 sides, and a hillside on the 4th side, so that almost no wind reaches the plants in the hottest part of the summer. But maybe my experience with a few different varieties all under the same hellishly bright, hot conditions would be helpful—
Like theghostpepperstore said, Tabasco seems to take a lickin' and keep on tickin' no matter how hot or bright it gets, producing at near optimum levels throughout the hottest months of the summer. Similarly, none of the chinenses seem the least bit rattled by full sun, except for blossom drop in the 95ºF+ weather. Most all annuums seem to sag in the heat of the day, and produce significantly fewer and smaller fruit in the very hot months, with the exception of Thai Chile (smaller leaves), which behaves more like Tabasco. The New Mexico types and Piment d'Espelette do poorly in the middle of the summer here—The plants almost stop growing completely, develop all kinds of root and leaf problems and the few fruit they produce are prune-sized. In the cooler months they don't seem to ever really recover from their midsummer suffering. I suspect, however, that our high humidity may also have something to do with that. California Wonder and Poblano, which have honking huge leaves, produce miserable, stunted, tiny fruit during the long, hot days, but in the later, cooler months I will get nice big, juicy, pods. As for baccatum, the large-leafed Aji Amarillo plants continue to grow but produce absolutely no fruit in the long, hot days, but in October there will be some very nice pods 6-8 inches long. Guampinha de Veado, a small-leafed, small-podded baccatum, seems to produce well all summer long...
I agree with you Gary,
I find that my annuums whether its the bell peppers or the horn shaped chili's take a beating from the "high noon" thru the 4pm sun. I have some of those particular plants against a garage in containers, South facing. The sun beats back off the garage and by the time I get home from work they look willowed out.
Its not because the soils dry, it seems the plants dehydrate faster than the c.chinense. I also had some Red Savinas in the same location. They loved the sun and reflected heat.
This year I plan on keeping the Belles and Banana's in more of a late day shady location.
Like years in the past...... When I had some extra afternoon shade, I remembered how the plants perked up and produced some nice harvests
Greg
I find that my annuums whether its the bell peppers or the horn shaped chili's take a beating from the "high noon" thru the 4pm sun. I have some of those particular plants against a garage in containers, South facing. The sun beats back off the garage and by the time I get home from work they look willowed out.
Its not because the soils dry, it seems the plants dehydrate faster than the c.chinense. I also had some Red Savinas in the same location. They loved the sun and reflected heat.
This year I plan on keeping the Belles and Banana's in more of a late day shady location.
Like years in the past...... When I had some extra afternoon shade, I remembered how the plants perked up and produced some nice harvests
Greg
well that's good to know, I've been trying to figure out how to arrange my plants, I have a good 2 rows at the end of the garden that are slightly skinnier for the rows and will be a little shaded from the big super hots, so I will stick the cherries and a few other annuums there