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Leaves Wrinkling?

Hey I have a Habernero plant that I just moved from a grow lamp to a window-sill to help it harden off a little.

Some of the leaves are starting to get wrinkly and look like
This​

001-3.jpg


002-2.jpg




Will a little bonemeal help them perk back up?
Or what do you guys recommend?
 
Hey I have a Habernero plant that I just moved from a grow lamp to a window-sill to help it harden off a little.

Some of the leaves are starting to get wrinkly and look like
This​

001-3.jpg


002-2.jpg




Will a little bonemeal help them perk back up?
Or what do you guys recommend?

The first photo looks like the stem has snapped. So i would just pull it off the leaf. THe second pic, not so sure, maybe it needs calcium (bone meal like you said) or calmag nutes.
 
How long do you have them in the windowsill each day? If they have had no sunlight (even filtered through a window) as of yet, you probably ought to limit the time for a while, then slowly start to increase it over several days.
 
How long do you have them in the windowsill each day? If they have had no sunlight (even filtered through a window) as of yet, you probably ought to limit the time for a while, then slowly start to increase it over several days.


They were under a grow lamp their whole lives & now I put them on the windowsill all day to harden off to get ready to go outsidee.
 
In the window sill ALL Day might be the problem. They are not used to full sun yet. Give them an hour a day in direct sun (even through windows) and indirect light the rest. Do that two or three days and then go to a couple hours of direct sun a day and keep upping it every two or three days. Then do the same thing with putting them outside. It seems like you are rushing the hardening off process a bit.
 
In the window sill ALL Day might be the problem. They are not used to full sun yet. Give them an hour a day in direct sun (even through windows) and indirect light the rest. Do that two or three days and then go to a couple hours of direct sun a day and keep upping it every two or three days. Then do the same thing with putting them outside. It seems like you are rushing the hardening off process a bit.

Exactly my thought....
 
I just moved 200 plants from the grow room to the window last weekend. They look great, but it's been overcast most of the time which sounds like a plus when considering the previous suggestions.
 
In the window sill ALL Day might be the problem. They are not used to full sun yet. Give them an hour a day in direct sun (even through windows) and indirect light the rest. Do that two or three days and then go to a couple hours of direct sun a day and keep upping it every two or three days. Then do the same thing with putting them outside. It seems like you are rushing the hardening off process a bit.

yeaah I probably am. Some flowers on my otherr Habenero plant on the windowsill aree starting to fall off D:

I just moved 200 plants from the grow room to the window last weekend. They look great, but it's been overcast most of the time which sounds like a plus when considering the previous suggestions.

dangg thats legit. & I might start hardening them off.
 
I would not be concerned about "flowers" falling off. That is to be expected. They probably wont pollinate and develop pods while kept indoors and will just fall off when their blooming cycle is complete. Leaves falling off is a more serious problem unless it is just one or two hear and there. I think putting them through the "hardening off process" is the answer to your problem though.
 
I would not be concerned about "flowers" falling off. That is to be expected. They probably wont pollinate and develop pods while kept indoors and will just fall off when their blooming cycle is complete. Leaves falling off is a more serious problem unless it is just one or two hear and there. I think putting them through the "hardening off process" is the answer to your problem though.

aiight. yeaah I'll slowly expose them to more sunlight.
 
I would not be concerned about "flowers" falling off. That is to be expected. They probably wont pollinate and develop pods while kept indoors and will just fall off when their blooming cycle is complete.
I'm in NE Ohio, and don't keep the house very warm. My seedlings, however, are in a room with a space heater. They're still pretty small, so no buds yet. 'Nuff said about THEM.

My overwinters, however, stay in the front, south-facing window and thus get full sun when it's out. Periodic problem during the winter was full sun when there was snow on the ground - the direct sun through the window plus reflection from the ground was actually too much, and I had to move them out of the window for partial days. Until recently, they would bud and then the buds would fall off. Then for a couple weeks, the buds would stay on and bloom, but then the flowers would fall off. However, in the last week or so the blooms are now sticking - and I now have pods starting. So they CAN pollinate and develop pods when kept indoors, you just have to make sure you move then a bit, either by blowing a fan on them periodically, or by gently shaking the stems. I think the more consistently warmer weather is part of what made the difference for these, as earlier in the winter the temps in the window varied greatly depending upon whether it was overcast or sunny.

I would imagine that if you started your seeds early enough, they would also get to a point to start pods indoors.
 
the leafs looks scorched the leaf cupping like that looks like it was trying to prevent more moisture loss. water the plant and see if it pick's up ?
 
I'm in NE Ohio, and don't keep the house very warm. My seedlings, however, are in a room with a space heater. They're still pretty small, so no buds yet. 'Nuff said about THEM.

My overwinters, however, stay in the front, south-facing window and thus get full sun when it's out. Periodic problem during the winter was full sun when there was snow on the ground - the direct sun through the window plus reflection from the ground was actually too much, and I had to move them out of the window for partial days. Until recently, they would bud and then the buds would fall off. Then for a couple weeks, the buds would stay on and bloom, but then the flowers would fall off. However, in the last week or so the blooms are now sticking - and I now have pods starting. So they CAN pollinate and develop pods when kept indoors, you just have to make sure you move then a bit, either by blowing a fan on them periodically, or by gently shaking the stems. I think the more consistently warmer weather is part of what made the difference for these, as earlier in the winter the temps in the window varied greatly depending upon whether it was overcast or sunny.

I would imagine that if you started your seeds early enough, they would also get to a point to start pods indoors.

I know the feeling lol, same area of Ohio. My bhut jolokia are growing quite slowly. It has been 7 months or so and it is probably 9 inches tall without any flowers. But I am growing them in my basement with a fe cfl's until the weather has completely broken and I can slowly acclimate it to the outside.
 
I'm in NE Ohio, and don't keep the house very warm. My seedlings, however, are in a room with a space heater. They're still pretty small, so no buds yet. 'Nuff said about THEM.

My overwinters, however, stay in the front, south-facing window and thus get full sun when it's out. Periodic problem during the winter was full sun when there was snow on the ground - the direct sun through the window plus reflection from the ground was actually too much, and I had to move them out of the window for partial days. Until recently, they would bud and then the buds would fall off. Then for a couple weeks, the buds would stay on and bloom, but then the flowers would fall off. However, in the last week or so the blooms are now sticking - and I now have pods starting. So they CAN pollinate and develop pods when kept indoors, you just have to make sure you move then a bit, either by blowing a fan on them periodically, or by gently shaking the stems. I think the more consistently warmer weather is part of what made the difference for these, as earlier in the winter the temps in the window varied greatly depending upon whether it was overcast or sunny.

I would imagine that if you started your seeds early enough, they would also get to a point to start pods indoors.

Yeahh I would imaginee that they would be able to, as long as you help them pollinate. & what exactly is an overwinterred plant?


the leafs looks scorched the leaf cupping like that looks like it was trying to prevent more moisture loss. water the plant and see if it pick's up ?

yeaah I will try thatt. !
 
...what exactly is an overwinterred plant?

There are many threads on this site about overwintering your plants, and I highly recommend that you look into them. In truly tropical zones, peppers are perennials - they continue to grow year-round. However, in climates where the temperatures reach below 50F in the winter, pepper plants left outside will die off, typically with the first hard frost. Overwintering is simply bringing your plants indoors for the winter (easiest to do if you grow them in containers.) There are two approaches you can take. The first is to simply bring them indoors and treat them like a houseplant. The second is to give them a severe pruning (can be both branches and roots, or just branches), then bring them indoors in pots and keep them in a dark, cool area. This will allow them to go dormant, but within a handful of weeks, they'll start producing leaves again. If you choose to overwinter using the dormancy approach, it is important to keep several growth nodes above ground - at least 4. You don't have to prune quite this severely, but I have done so, as have others. Other people, however, prune back to maybe a foot tall, for larger plants. Like I said, check out the threads on the topic if this interests you.
 
There are many threads on this site about overwintering your plants, and I highly recommend that you look into them. In truly tropical zones, peppers are perennials - they continue to grow year-round. However, in climates where the temperatures reach below 50F in the winter, pepper plants left outside will die off, typically with the first hard frost. Overwintering is simply bringing your plants indoors for the winter (easiest to do if you grow them in containers.) There are two approaches you can take. The first is to simply bring them indoors and treat them like a houseplant. The second is to give them a severe pruning (can be both branches and roots, or just branches), then bring them indoors in pots and keep them in a dark, cool area. This will allow them to go dormant, but within a handful of weeks, they'll start producing leaves again. If you choose to overwinter using the dormancy approach, it is important to keep several growth nodes above ground - at least 4. You don't have to prune quite this severely, but I have done so, as have others. Other people, however, prune back to maybe a foot tall, for larger plants. Like I said, check out the threads on the topic if this interests you.

yeaah I'll check out more forms, but that seems intresting. & know I have a good idea about what it is. So it makes them grow back bigger when they do grow back?
 
So it makes them grow back bigger when they do grow back?

There are various opinions on the pruning approach, both by amateurs and by commercial growers, but the discussion primarily revolves over quantity of production rather than plant size. Some say it causes more branching, and therefore, more peppers since peppers only appear at joints in branches. Some say it doesn't produce any more peppers than if you had simply brought the plant indoors and not severely pruned it. I think there is a good chance it depends upon the individual plant. I did the pruning method for two reasons: a) the plants got a nasty case of aphids, and that was a pretty sure-fire way to get rid of the aphids, and b) it reduced the maintenance time for me while the plants were dormant - much less watering needs to be done while they're dormant.
 
There are various opinions on the pruning approach, both by amateurs and by commercial growers, but the discussion primarily revolves over quantity of production rather than plant size. Some say it causes more branching, and therefore, more peppers since peppers only appear at joints in branches. Some say it doesn't produce any more peppers than if you had simply brought the plant indoors and not severely pruned it. I think there is a good chance it depends upon the individual plant. I did the pruning method for two reasons: a) the plants got a nasty case of aphids, and that was a pretty sure-fire way to get rid of the aphids, and b) it reduced the maintenance time for me while the plants were dormant - much less watering needs to be done while they're dormant.

hmm niice. thats intrestingg, I might look into that for my plants in Utah.
 
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