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soil My soil sucks!

Scuba_Steve

Scuba_Steve

I thought I planned my soil out pretty well, and I certainly spent enough money on mixing it.  Maybe I didn't add enough amendments.  I figured that the compost would carry it as far as NPK goes at least for the first few months.
 
Here is what I used:
 
Raised beds
6cf Sphagnum Peat Moss
2cf Coconut Coir
10cf Mixed Compost (Manure, Mushroom, Humus, Chicken)
6cf Vermiculite
2cf Perlite 2cf All Purpose Sand
8 cups Dolomitic Lime
8 cups Kelp based slow release fertilizer
4 cups Bonemeal
 
Wally Bags
4 parts Olde Castle soil conditioner (composed pine fines), 1 part sphagnum peat moss, 1 part perlite.  I also added 1 tbsp of kelp based slow release fertilizer, 1 tbsp dolomitic lime, and 1/2 tbsp bone meal per gallon of soil.
 
30g Pot
I bought a premixed soil from a landscaping store made with top soil, pine fines, and mixed compost.
 
Here are my test results using this kit.  It was a pain in the ass btw, and I am very use to test kits for aquariums.  Even more complicated tests such as calcium and magnesium.
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W6JC2U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Raised beds
pH 7.5+
N Med Low
P Med High+
K Med High
 
Wally Bags
pH 7.5+
N Med
P Low
K 0
 
30g Pot
pH 7.5+
N 0
P Med High
K 0
 
Maybe I am just reading them wrong, but they seem pretty out of whack, especially pH and N.  For the most part, all my plants seem happy though.  Do I struggle to try to water in mass amount of amendments, or do I just let it ride?
 
The pH has a + because 7.5 is suppose to be a pretty dark green.  The scale doesn't go above 7.5 either.  The results were all very very dark green.

I am super bummed out fyi... 
 
Sorry bro! I know this isn't what you wanted to hear but... you probably just got a crappy kit. Here is one of the ratings for that product on amazon via the link you listed:
 
"I'm a PhD chemist so I thought that I'd just buy this kit and use it. During my first use (I was doing 5 soil samples), the plastic filtration device split at the seam during the 5th sample. At this point the test kit was dead, but I did have results from the 4 samples I had completed testing. I then sent my samples to the UMN soil testing lab. The results were nothing like the results from the kit. Don't waste your money on this kit."
 
Personally I've always assumed that anything that you measure a very precise value (such as pH) based on something as subjective as different shades of the same color... well, I just assume it could be pretty inaccurate. The difference between 7.5 pH and 7.0 pH is determining whether the color is mint green or watermelon green. Yeah.... depending on the lighting I could probably make the watermelon look like mint.. so... haha just saying.
 
Again sorry bro I know this isn't helpful but its kinda true!! These tests are bogus I think but they will give you a very rough idea where things are I guess *shrugs"
 
The title of this thread is "My soil sucks!"
 
Are you drawing that conclusion based only on the results of one PH kit?  Guy, go to Lowes or Walmart and buy a cheap ass electric meter and then compare results.  I want to say they are like $20.00.  Make sure you are getting the type for soil, not water.  Amend the soil as desired.  It sounds like you put a lot of thought into that soil.  Dont kick yourself because one aspect needs adjusted.

hydromike can probably give you a better take on this due to the hydro in his name. Have seen products called PH Up and PH Down at the local hydroponic store.  Not sure if they are good for soil, but they sound really simple and hydroponic / chemical remedies tend to work much faster than traditional soil amendments.

But even if you dont manage to get your numbers down, so you don't get 100% out of your peppers.  I really dont think it will make your plants fall over and die.  I think somewhere you said it was your first year gardening or maybe growing peppers.  Relax and enjoy it.  Mother Nature is frigging amazing.  Some of my worst screw ups have been trying to help her along too much.

If I am remembering right and you did say this is your first time gardening, I am so going to enjoy the pictures of beautiful pods that you post this fall.

 
 
Some of those hydro stores will test your soil pH, FREE.  Take in a sample, and they will make a slurry and test your pH.
 
It's my understanding those electric soil meters are cheap for a reason...crap.  Just the feedback I've gotten.. 
 
Walmart sells cheap little soil test kits for like 2 bucks a piece that test ph and npk. I've got a couple I'm going to try out in the next couple days. Not sure if they're any better but gonna give em a shot and see what it says. You basically make a slurry, let it settle, put water into vial, break open and add colored capsule, let sit for a few mins and then compare on chart. Looks pretty damn simple so I picked up a few. If you can find em you could try em and see if any different from the kit you used
 
Rog, yes the twenty buck ph testers suck.  Was thinking if you have two sucky ways of testing and they agree, well then chances are....
 
From what I have read your raised bed soil looks pretty good. I do think it is strange that all your PH readings came back so high on different soil mixtures. Probably the kit, or is your water's PH high?
 
If the plants are growing, even slowly, and are a vibrant colour then screw it!  Don't stress about it.  I had a similar issue where my mix was too dense and I ended up with hundereds of effing bonsai.  Not quite the production I was gunning for.
 
Soil takes a while to settle and homogenise.  I would strongly suggest adding either fine granite or better still red clay to the beds at about a cup per cubic foot - it'll help with the cation exchange.  Vermiculite should do the trick but if it isn't fine enough (i.e. still in its flaky form) then it is pretty poor at it - it must be dust-like to perform the job.
 
With all the organic matter you have in there it is going to leach mucho humic acid - and that is what chelates the iron and makes it available - red clay (dried and crushed - red bricks or red pottery clay) helps with the iron.
 
I would also suggest that next time dig up some old garden soil and mix it in - lotsa good microbes etc in there - helps the soil homogenise and settle down.  Last thing: avoid mushroom compost - it is sludge and generally full of sulphur.
 
Forget the kits.  Give a soil sample to your local county cooperative extension.  They will test PH as well as testing for NPK and micro nutrient content of your soil.  That will give you a clear picture of the quality of your soil.  My extension only charged $10 for the test.  Well worth it, IMO.
 
Forget all of that stuff. I'm using the same soil for the third year in a row... Mostly unamended. I literally just pulled up last year's plant and put a new one in its place (in pots)
 
I say mostly unamended because I've used added Jobe's tomato fertilizer spikes - two per overwintered plant, one per new plant. I have flowers everywhere.
 
BTW, I started with Miracle Gro potting mix in 2012. I only bought new stuff just this year to use for planting more flowers. Still using the old stuff for peppers, herbs, and tomatoes.
 
Proud Marine Dad said:
What's pH? :lol:
Click to expand...
 
I have never once tested the pH of my dirt. It's dirt. It's rotten organic matter. I refuse to test dirt. If I think it may have been contaminated by a foreign substance, I will throw it out and use fresh dirt. No need to go over the top with your dirt.
 
 
I gotta know, is that just top soil in a bag or is it a cross between potting soil and top soil?


Like I said, I'm a noob, and that is for any type of gardening. Here is a pic of the soil and ingredients.

du3Sx59.jpg


NTChu8V.jpg
 
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