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seeds Newbie Seed Starter with Questions

S

scobolt

Hi, I am new to this message board and this is my first post. I plan on seeding some hot peppers indoors this year for my first time. I'm about ready to get going, though I am very nervous about it.

First of all, would you recommend soaking the seeds before planting in dirt? I've seen it suggested to soak them in peroxide and water and even bleach. Then I've also seen it suggested NOT to do this, so I'm torn. The soaking is supposed to break down the outsides of the seed so that it germinates faster. The biggest problem with this is that hot pepper seeds are so tiny, how could you possibly do this without creating a big mess, and is it really worth it for a first timer to do such a thing? The directions on the seed packet certainly don't say anything about soaking.

Can anyone help me?


Thanks is advance,

scobolt
 
Hey bro and welcome to the the most non-wankiest forum on the webz.

In my opinion soaking is a pain in the a$$ and also a waste of time. Give them correct temps and half good dirt and you are set!
 
Thanks, Nova. After reading a few other threads it seems that some people like to soak them and some people don't. I might try soaking just a few as an experiment.

I do have another question though... Is it bad to smoke in the same small room where you've got germination and seedlings going on? I have a feeling that it is. Can anyone help me on this one?
 
I've tried it both ways and I think you will just be wasting your time by pre-soaking seeds.

Yes, it is bad to smoke around pepper plants because they are susceptible to Tobacco Mosiac Virus. I'd even suggest washing your hands before you touch them.


Alan
 
Hola, Scobolt, and welcome! :)

As another relative noob (only been at this for a couple of years) I also wondered at first. But i've so far managed to grow all my plants without having to pre-soak (I'm also relatively lazy, so the thought of having to go through some form of meticulous ritual of 'pre-soakness' just didn't appeal to me :P)
 
I don't soak seeds because I start so many...if I can get a 70% germination rate at this point in time, I am happy...like Nova said, give them the right temperature (~86F/30C) and some decent soil and you are ready my friend...

smoking...bad for plants?...IMO, the tobacco mosaic virus will not spread from the smoke, that is what it is, smoke that has been superheated from the burning tobacco...the virus probably can not live thru the smoke...as far as touching the plants after you have handled tobacco...definitely wash your hands...I am a smoker and have had no problem over the years (knock on wood)
 
Some seed types benefit from soaking but I haven't found the need to soak with peppers, they usually germinate just fine without.
 
I planted over 200 seeds this season and soaked about 1/3 of them and didn't bother with the other 2/3rds. On average, I got 1 or 2 days earlier germination out of the soaked ones and slightly higher germination rate (maybe 5%). Maybe a slight difference, but I can't prove that it was the soaking that actually led to earlier germination or higher percentage germination.

I've read about studies that show soaking in bleach briefly then rinsing helps soften the seeds shell helping germination rates as sometimes the germinating seedling isn't strong enough to break through. (I believe that's in DeWitts newest book).
 
you know...most of us on here start from very very good seed stock...either seed stock of your own that you have saved or seed stock from a trusted member...

IMO, that, in itself is an instant plus because we know where our stock came from...and they usually have great germination percentages and fairly quick too...

I reckon this...my seeds get 21 days to sprout from seed...I usually transplant between 21 and 28 days....if there are no sprouts when I transplant, too bad...they get trashed and I can start another tray...
 
I havent soaked any seeds, ever. This year I have had 90% or so germination rate on most seeds, 100% on others. What kind of starting system are you going to use? (peat pucks, grow mix, etc) If you can afford a seedling heat mat, definately get one, it will speed up germination, most greenhouses and garden shops have them. Lowes has a combo kit that comes with Jiffy's 72 puck tray and a heating mat for about $40.
 
More Questions

Thanks for the help everybody. Let me explain what I plan on doing here because I do have a few more questions.

I plan on starting my seeds by sowing several into larger containers - I'm thinking cut-off styrofoam cups with plastic on the top. I want to use Miracle Grow Orchid Mix soil in some of the containers and a regular seed starter mix in some others to see which works better. I will keep these containers under a seedling heat mat and make sure the soil stays moist and warm until sprouted. I have read that I should use Miracle Grow Bloom Booster or some other fertilizer on the seeds until sprouted but am not sure whether I should do this. Any suggestions?

After the seedlings get their first true leaves I plan on transplanting them to a plastic seed tray with individual connected pots, a watering tray underneath and a plastic dome. I will put them under plant lights at this time and will continue to use the heat mat, though I am not sure if the soil needs to be kept as warm after transplanting. Any suggestions?

Another Question: How do you transplant the seedlings to their individual containers without damaging them?

Another Question: When transplanting to the individual containers, should I use a different type of soil, or should I keep the seed starter mix until transplanting into a bigger pot, later? I've also heard that I should add bone meal to the soil but am not sure if I should do this.

Also: should I add any fertilizer to the young seedlings at all, or just rely on the nutrients in the soil?



Thanks again, this has been really helpful, so far.
 
lots of good questions.

Here are my suggestions:

You won't need to use Bloom Booster on the seeds.
Don't use a plastic dome on seedlings which have sprouted. And no, the seedlings don't require the same heat that the seeds need, so the heat mat could help a bit but isn't mandatory.
Transplant carefully...just try not to damage the roots. dig them out with a spoon or something that keeps the dirt intact so you're not pulling on the seedling at all.
I use a different soil when I transplant, although I've used seed starter mix in the past right until they're in the ground with success.
I've never used bone meal so I can't comment
If you're going to add fertilizer to the seedlings, use very little...far less than the manufacturers suggested dose. A lot of people don't use any at all and a lot do. It may help, but you don't want to overdue it and make the plant reliant on fertilizers.

And lastly, simple works! There are always tricks and ways of making things better, but that also can lead to overdoing certain things and damaging the plants.

When the seeds first sprout, they'll be starving for light and will reach for it wherever they can which could lead to and undesired legginess....flourescent lights right over top of them (1-2 inches) will stop them from "stretching out" for light.

Sounds like you have a good handle on things so far though! good luck.
 
The only suggestion I can make is for you to plant your seeds in either a seed starting mix or a good potting mix. You shouldn't plant seeds in anything with the word "soil" on the package because "soils" are made of dirt and can compact around the the seed and possibly hinder it from sprouting. This year I'm using FertiLome potting mix and it's working out well for me. In the past I've used ProMix, and JiffyMix with good results. I think some others are using Lamberts potting/seed starting mix and are having good results.

Also, when you are using a specialty soil like the "Orchid " soil you need to know that the soil PH is adjusted to growing Orchids and may, or may not, be in the best range for pepper growth.


Alan
 
to add to this, last year i pre-soaked a load of seeds, colour-coded them etc etc, & not one germinated! a colossal waste of time.
also, when you come to pot-on your seedlings, make sure you handle them gently by the cotyledons (seedling leaves) & never by the stems, as that will inevitably kill them.
 
I'm basically lazy..I don't soak, pepper seeds just want to grow...put them in the mix and stand back. They don't need a lot of fertilizer, in fact will do just fine without it. Sure you can feed your young plants but not until they have true leaves and way less fertilizer than recommended. I prefer to do things as simply as possible. I don't transfer any seedling until it's roots are sticking out the bottom of whatever it's in. I usually go up to a plastic (keg) glass with holes in the base, rubber band the sides of the cup then set it in another cup..drainage, the rubber band creates a space at the base to let water run off. If I don't put the plants in plastic cups they go into a 3' square pot. Not saying my way is better than anyone else's, it's just the way I do it.
 
Thank you everyone for all your help. This has been really helpful.

A couple more questions:

I plan on putting my plants outside in mid to late May. I've heard to start seeds 8-10 weeks before planting, though I've heard that some pepper seeds can take longer. When should I start seeding?

Here are the seeds I plan on germinating this year:

Chinese 5 Color
Chocolate Habanero
Filius Blue
Red Mushroom Pepper
Scotch Bonnet
Corbaci Pepper
Melrose Pepper

Remember, I don't want to start these too late, but I don't want to start them too early either.

Also, I've heard that after my seedlings are big enough to transplant to their own containers that I should give them 12 hours of light per day and 12 hours of darkness. Is this true or should I give them 24 hours of light at this time?

By the way, I plan on taking pictures of my plants this year and would be glad to share them with this forum.

Thanks in advance,

Scobolt
 
If you're planning on transplanting in mid May then you should allow about 8 weeks time for the seeds to sprout and grow. That would put you around mid March. Now allow another 2-3 weeks time to harden your plants and get them used to being outside and you should be planting seeds around the end of Feb. But, if you're like the rest of us, you probably won't be able to wait and you'll end up planting them right now.

Whatever hours of light you are growing your seedlings should be kept until you plant them outside.


Alan
 
I really would suggest starting now, especially for Chinense. A bit early is way better than a bit late......especially if you're doing 12hours light/darkness. Is that daylight or flourescent lights?? If you have flourescents I would suggest 18+ hours for the most part when they are young, but 12 and 12 will work, it will just take longer for them to catch up to speed (which is why you should start now).

I started first week of march last year with no lights...my plant out is first week of June and I definitely didn't have enough time in the summer. I started all of my chinenses a month ago and just started my annuums. I'll pot up to keep them going and then I'll have nice and big plants for transplant. IMO start those suckers!
 
i read alot of information on seed starting that said at least 6 hours of dark is required for the plant to grow right,works for me for about 10-12 years.
 
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