Finally - The Mystery Pepper becomes Reality
Another two years went by until the "Saga Jolokia" made significant progress. Also the Chile Pepper Institute grew and analyzed all sorts of capsicum varieties that were supposed to be "the world's hottest." Most of the time, the results were rather disappointing. One variety showed potential, though -- in 2001, the Institute received seed of a chile named 'Bhut Jolokia' from a member who had collected it while visiting India.
Because of poor fruit and seed set, it took Dr. Bosland several years to have sufficient seed on hand for an extensive field trial. 'Bhut Jolokia' was grown under insect-proof net cages to produce the bulk seed, and by 2004, enough seed was available for the test.
Extensive Field Trial and Tests in New Mexico
Now Dr. Bosland and his colleagues were ready for a large-scale experiment. An extensive study was undertaken, with three goals:
Compare the heat level of 'Red Savina,' 'Bhut Jolokia,' and regular habanero in a replicated field trial
Find out whether 'Bhut Jolokia' truly had a higher heat level than 'Red Savina'
Determine the species designation of the 'Bhut Jolokia.'
The comparison experiment was conducted in 2005 at a plant science research facility close to Las Cruces, New Mexico.
The Great Heat Test: Orange
Habanero, 'Red Savina' and
'Bhut Jolokia', were all part of
an extensive Comparison Experiment.
Using a climate-controlled greenhouse and heat pads, seeds of all three varieties were started and thinned after germination. When seedlings had developed eight to ten true leaves, they were transplanted to the field plots or to 4 liter (1 gal) plastic pots and grown in the greenhouse for DNA extraction. In the field, they were were planted in a sophisticated, randomized pattern, forming blocks of 36 plants each. A single line of plants was spaced 25 cm (about 1 foot) apart within the row and 1m (3 ft.) between rows. The plants were grown using standard cultural practices for growing chile peppers in southern New Mexico. As customary in the "Chile Pepper State", the plots were furrow irrigated throughout the season to maintain optimal plant growth. Fortunately, 2005 weather conditions proved to be favorable for this sort of field test.
Once the fruit had matured, harvest also followed a highly scientific scheme. To get a good fruit average of each variety, the scientists harvested 25 random mature fruits from at least 10 plants. To prepare for HPLC Scoville testing, the whole sample pods were dried and ground.
'Bhut Jolokia' was also used for DNA testing. As most of us know from watching CSI on TV, DNA is the genetic fingerprint of all life forms. Not only bad guys can be identified accurately and quickly that way, but the various species of capsicum as well. So-called RAPD markers show a typical pattern of stripes that can be matched against other samples (RAPD - not to confuse with LAPD - stands for "random amplification of polymorphic DNA" - more on Wikipedia here). To be able to create such fingerprints of various Capsicum species as a reference, the scientists at the Chile Pepper Institute obtained various samples of C. annuum, C. baccatum, C. chinense, and C. frutescens -- these plant materials were acquired from germ plasm collections like the National Plant Germplasm System. For DNA isolation, samples of leaf tissue were taken.
So instead of CSI, we had CPI investigating here. By comparing Bhut Jolokia's RAPD markers with the reference markers, is was possible to determine which species' genes are part of this particular pepper variety. That, of course is much more accurate than just by observing how many pods per node are growing, or by comparing flower types, which is of course still done in addition as well.
Both the HPLC test and the DNA analysis brought valuable insight into this exciting chile pepper from India.
Interesting Results
-- Heat Levels, and who's the Hottest in the World
Let's begin with the capsaicin content using the HPLC test.
Besides the makeup of a pepper cultivar's genes, environmental factors are known to increase or decrease the actual heat level as well, but being able to compare the samples with standard control cultivars from field trials increases the confidence of the heat level measurements. The HPLC data were converted from ppm (parts per million) to SHU by multiplying it by 16. For example, if a total capsaicinoid content of 36000 mg/kg is determined, multiplying this value by 16 would mean 576,000SHU (for SHU, capsaicinoids like capsacin, dehydrocapsaicin etc. are summed up.)
Side note -- Some years back, pure capsaicin was defined as 15 million SHU. Accordingly, the factor 15 then. With current standards' assumption of capsaicin being 16 million SHU, the factor should be 16, not 15. I verified this with both CPI and a certified food lab. Some testers still seem to work with a factor of 15, which gives results that are about 6% lower.
The HPLC analysis revealed that Orange Habanero had a mean (average) heat level of 357,729 SHU. That's quite a bit, but according to Dr. Bosland, this is in the range normally seen for this cultivar in Las Cruces, NM. (I once tasted Jalapeno peppers right from a field close to Las Cruces, and even those "ordinary" peppers were surprisingly hot.)
Now for Bhut Jolokia -- the analysis revealed that it possessed an extremely high heat level indeed, a whopping 1,001,304 SHU. That's a heat level you normally see only with ultra-hot sauces using pepper extract (capsicum oleoresin).
A different kind of surpise was the test result for Red Savina - it scored a rather low heat level of just 248,556 SHU. This means the SHU value for 'Bhut Jolokia' was four times higher than 'Red Savina' -- so much for "the world's current hottest chile pepper" ;-)
In 2004, Assam-based pepper grower Frontal Agritech also had their Bih Jolokia chiles HPLC-tested and reported 1,041,427 SHU, which means two independent results for Jolokia are in the same ballpark. The Northeastern-Indian region allows for two harvests per year, though and there seems to be a certain seasonal heat fluctuation between the two.
Two UK growers reported quite similar results for Naga Jolokia type peppers, using greenhouses.
In general, these heat level results can only serve as a reference. While the hot southern New Mexico desert climate pushed Bih Jolokia to almost one million SHU, pods from the same seedstock may deliver considerably less capsaicin on a raised bed after a rainy summer in Cleveland. Then again, optimized nutrition and environmental conditions in a greenhouse could possibly yield even higher SHU results. In addition to that, unverified third party HPLC results should always be taken with a grain of salt.
Remotely related Anecdote....
While running Peppers on the Pier, a "hot shop" in St. Petersburg, Florida, we employed a great guy as a salesperson, his name was Tom. Frequently shoppers came in and asked "What's the hottest in this store?" -- and Tom would reply: "That would be me."
-- DNA Results
Now let's take a look at the DNA test of 'Bhut Jolokia', researching its species. As mentioned, early Naga Jolokia or Tezpur reports insisted that this pepper would belong to the C. frutescens species. Next came evidence that this was a C. chinese type of chile. So what is it really? Well, it's a chinense, but the frutescens proponnents were not completely wrong.
Among the 19 samples of C. annuum, C. frutescens, C. chinense, and 'Bhut Jolokia', the scientists obtained 136 reproducible and reliable polymorphic RAPD markers to work with. To sum up the rather complex test results, the researchers found eight RAPD markers specific to C. chinense, as well as three markers specific to C. frutescens. No annuum-specific patterns were detected in this Indian chile, but one that was specific to 'Bhut Jolokia'. The genetic similarities among and within the species were calculated by applying some sophisticated algorithms that would be beyond the scope of this article. At the bottom line, the experts obtained a so-called "similarity index value". A totally pure species would mean a value of 1.00, which is rather rare, as most cultivars (= cultivated varieties) contain genes from more than one species through breeding.
The C. annuum samples included in this analysis for reference delivered a similarity index value of 0.86. Similarly, the C. chinense as well as C. frutescens reference samples showed similarity index values of 0.82 and 0.85, respectively. The C. frutescens and C. chinense clusters merged at the similarity index value of 0.45. The the average genetic similarity between C. chinense and 'Bhut Jolokia' was 0.79, which means this chile clearly belongs to the C.chinense species, but has some C. frutescens genes as well.
According to Dr. Bosland, such a genetic species mix is not uncommon, and it is called "interspecific hybridization". As an example, he mentioned the Greenleaf Tabasco cultivar -- it was developed by interspecific hybridization between C. frutescens and C. chinense, followed by repeated backcrossing to C. frutescens. DNA analysis revealed that 'Greenleaf Tabasco' indeed contains some C. chinense genes.
Considering that various C. frutescens peppers are cultivated in northeastern India as well (Indian PC-1 for example), the presence of some frutescens genes in this chinense cultivar should be no surprise. In Assam, plants of C. chinense and C. frutescens could have been grown near each other, allowing for hybridization between them, Paul Bosland remarked. Quite possibly, local farmers knowingly selected for a higher heat chile pepper, eventually leading to the ultra-hot 'Bhut Jolokia'.