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Nutrient Issues?
- Thread starter Helldozer
- Start date
Capsicum
Banned
I wanted to post a follow up, just in case there may be anything I need to do OR not do. The ones in pots have been cal-mag'ed twice since transplanted. You can also see similar signs in my baby peppers of another type. Some of them are flowering, but the leaves are looking terrible. I think the leaves that are on the lower section and are yellow may be from touching the dirt when I water. I try to keep them off though. I do have other peppers that don't show any of the same signs, however they are not the same type of peppers. Currently, I have been taking the suggestion of just plain watering when needed, with no fert or cal-mag.
What is that on top of your soil?
Thanks, perfect! I just wasn't sure if I should have seen a difference sooner or later.
Hehe.
It's the freaking pine tree that is close by that drops a ton when the wind kicks up.
Not trying to Hijack,but I didn't see the need to make another thread.
I have a 7 pot infinty with pods,but the damn leaves keep curling. We had(DFW area) a hard rain about 3 weeks,and it beat the hell outta my plants. So forgive me,and please don't call CPS on me and my babies...HAH
here's a pic,and my guess would be something in the soil not getting to the plant?
and link if I can't pull my head outta my arse:
http://s1072.photobu...nt=09c15f3a.jpg
ahhh screw it..Can't link anything using my work pc
and yes I'm a n00b!
So also forgive me if I broke a rule or something....
Thanks,
Kyle
I have a 7 pot infinty with pods,but the damn leaves keep curling. We had(DFW area) a hard rain about 3 weeks,and it beat the hell outta my plants. So forgive me,and please don't call CPS on me and my babies...HAH
here's a pic,and my guess would be something in the soil not getting to the plant?
and link if I can't pull my head outta my arse:
http://s1072.photobu...nt=09c15f3a.jpg
ahhh screw it..Can't link anything using my work pc
and yes I'm a n00b!
So also forgive me if I broke a rule or something....
Thanks,
Kyle
No worries here.
I think it helps to have multiple discussions about the same topic.The more the merrier.
I'm a noob, but from the responses I received about my leaves that looked similar is that you might have a nutrient lock. I could only see that happening if you added fertilizer to your soil recently, and then the rain released it. Not sure if that's accurate, but it seems possible.
i never water my potted plants with water straight from the faucet or hose. Municipal water sources contain chlorine in the water... and I don't want the chlorine accumulating in my potted plants. So what I do is I let the water sit out in a bucket for a day, to let the chlorine evaporate and then I water my plants. One extra step, but it helps. 
i never water my potted plants with water straight from the faucet or hose. Municipal water sources contain chlorine in the water... and I don't want the chlorine accumulating in my potted plants. So what I do is I let the water sit out in a bucket for a day, to let the chlorine evaporate and then I water my plants. One extra step, but it helps.
You can also put 5 ml of Hydrogen Peroxide per gallon of water and water your plants in an hour or so.
LOL chlorine? if tap water is considered safe for human consumption it will not hurt your plants. Just sayin......
You better do a little reading.
I've got some plants that look just like these wrinkly guys I'm seeing here. This is the first year I used MG Garden Soil. Sounds like it might have been a mistake. I have 23 plants in two raised beds of 4' x 8 '. It's supposed to rain here for the next coupla days. Think they'll be OK?
Hi all. I have a few random comments. Sorry if it's an old topic but for people reading it as new, maybe some of this will help:
Once you transplant to a larger pot the plant will use much of its energy growing more roots. It's often expected that it won't do much leaf growth for a little while in addition to potential transplant shock.
There's wrinkling that is a sign of disease or nutrient problems but there are also some C. Chinense that are supposed to have really ripply leaves. While your topic starter first picture shows some stress, the next two look totally normal for a type like Jamaican Chocolate. They wil smooth out a bit when the leaves are full sized, if the plant is doing well those will become pretty big leaves for a pepper plant.
It will definitely help them to give them some calcium but you can stress the plant from too much. Typically an excess won't produce burn marks but instead the whole plant will suddenly get really droopy, not unlike if it were badly needing water. If this happens give it a LOT of water to flush out excess calcium then return to regular watering schedule.
Might I suggest a slower release form of calcium? I just mix ground up egg shells into the soil before transplanting, but you can ash the egg shells over fire if you want them to be quicker to break down. No real need to pay a lot for calcium (or magnesium) unless you're facing an emergency like a lot of plants with blossom end rot on the fruit.
Regular tap water may have nutrients but not enough to make much difference. Tap water also does not have enough chlorine to make much difference, but typically tap water is a little alkaline which (depending on your current soil pH) the plants may not like as much. However, the droppings from the pine tree are acidic, they could offset the pH change from tapwater or it could go the other way, they could make the soil too acidic. At the least I would limit how many of the dropping get into or stay in the pot.
The burnt edges on the leaves do appear to be from touching the soil when watered, because it had so much fertilizer in it at the surface level. Ideally you would use the fertilizer water sparingly and then water again a few minutes later at most, with non-fertilizer water to rinse off the top surface of the soil and distribute the fertilizer more evenly throughout the pot.
If it is hot outside the leaves won't absorb nearly as many nutrients from foliar feeding as they will when it is cooler, but the waxy surface does not prevent nutrient absorption.
Some of the plants still in solo cups pictured on post #39 look like they could use more nitrogen.
Once you transplant to a larger pot the plant will use much of its energy growing more roots. It's often expected that it won't do much leaf growth for a little while in addition to potential transplant shock.
There's wrinkling that is a sign of disease or nutrient problems but there are also some C. Chinense that are supposed to have really ripply leaves. While your topic starter first picture shows some stress, the next two look totally normal for a type like Jamaican Chocolate. They wil smooth out a bit when the leaves are full sized, if the plant is doing well those will become pretty big leaves for a pepper plant.
It will definitely help them to give them some calcium but you can stress the plant from too much. Typically an excess won't produce burn marks but instead the whole plant will suddenly get really droopy, not unlike if it were badly needing water. If this happens give it a LOT of water to flush out excess calcium then return to regular watering schedule.
Might I suggest a slower release form of calcium? I just mix ground up egg shells into the soil before transplanting, but you can ash the egg shells over fire if you want them to be quicker to break down. No real need to pay a lot for calcium (or magnesium) unless you're facing an emergency like a lot of plants with blossom end rot on the fruit.
Regular tap water may have nutrients but not enough to make much difference. Tap water also does not have enough chlorine to make much difference, but typically tap water is a little alkaline which (depending on your current soil pH) the plants may not like as much. However, the droppings from the pine tree are acidic, they could offset the pH change from tapwater or it could go the other way, they could make the soil too acidic. At the least I would limit how many of the dropping get into or stay in the pot.
The burnt edges on the leaves do appear to be from touching the soil when watered, because it had so much fertilizer in it at the surface level. Ideally you would use the fertilizer water sparingly and then water again a few minutes later at most, with non-fertilizer water to rinse off the top surface of the soil and distribute the fertilizer more evenly throughout the pot.
If it is hot outside the leaves won't absorb nearly as many nutrients from foliar feeding as they will when it is cooler, but the waxy surface does not prevent nutrient absorption.
Some of the plants still in solo cups pictured on post #39 look like they could use more nitrogen.
Capsicum
Banned
Yes chlorine in that level does no damage to plants at all, Only microorganisms. If your fertilizer program is synthetic you can use chlorine no worries.
Clemson Univeristy- "Plants can tolorate the concentrations that are recommended for pool water"
"Chloride (Cl[sup]-[/sup]) is the ionic form of chlorine found in nature. It has a negative charge and is often associated with sodium (common table salt) or other positively charged ions like potassium. It is non-toxic and readily absorbed and used by plants."
Read more:http://www.spectruma...arby_Plants.htm
Again, in container culture, in a fragile organic system where the grower is relying on 100% organic feeding to be converted by microorganisms ( Like making compost tea it is good to use dechlorinated water) then you may want to use dechlorinated water to not slow down the microlife. One less thing you have to think about if you use synthetics.
When I water my in ground plants I water right from the hose using the tap right away not dechlorinating the water.
Same here.
Maybe chlorine does or does not affect plants in containers but I am going to gas the chlorine out anyhow since I have my pump setup for compost tea.
Not only does it gas off any chlorine but it also oxygenates the water.