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health Nutrient problems, or dying plants?

Hi all! This growing year has been a lot of learning and rewards, however there were a few bumps in the road along the way but managed to get the plants this far! I have noticed though that some of the plants have started to get yellowing on the leaves and now some flower buds are starting to yellow and fall. I know not all buds take but more and more are falling. The part that confuses me is that some plants have these issues and some don't, they are all fed seaweed fertiliser once a week and topped up with rain water when they need. Everyday is a learning day and enjoying the journey but would love any advice as to what may be going wrong! I have also tried growing tomatoes for the first time and also having a issue with their leaves so if anyone may now anything about that help would be great. 🙂
 

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Your Aji Omicolor plant just looks a little nutrient deficient to me. Not sure what caused the dead branches on the Orange Tiger and Jamaican Hot, but the black stuff I see on both the dead stem and some of the leaves on the Jamaican Hot looks fungal to me. I would prune off the affected areas and spray down both plants with an antifungal spray.

When you say that the Peri-Peri leaves are drooping, do you mean that the plant wilts and doesn't perk up again when you water it? If so, I would suspect root rot. Brown, mushy roots that break easily are another sign of that. That is caused by a fungus. In that case, I would quarantine it far away from the other plants and repot it in fresh potting soil if you want to try and save it. But there is a good chance that it will die anyway if it has root rot. But if the plant responds to watering then it probably isn't root rot. The yellowing leaves could just indicate a magnesium deficiency.

The next, unlabeled picture also shows leaves with signs of nutrient deficiencies.

The darkening on the Sweet Aperitif leaves just looks like a response to a lot of sun exposure (anthocyanin pigment), but I think I see a little yellowing underneath the purple, so that could also indicate nutrient deficiency. On the Marmande, it looks like that leaf is dying and about to drop off the plant. Do any other leaves show any symptoms? I'm not sure that we should draw conclusions based on one old leaf that the plant is probably about to drop anyway.
 
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Your Aji Omicolor plant just looks a little nutrient deficient to me. Not sure what caused the dead branches on the Orange Tiger and Jamaican Hot, but the black stuff I see on both the dead stem and some of the leaves on the Jamaican Hot looks fungal to me. I would prune off the affected areas and spray down both plants with an antifungal spray.

When you say that the Peri-Peri leaves are drooping, do you mean that the plant wilts and doesn't perk up again when you water it? If so, I would suspect root rot. Brown, mushy roots that break easily are another sign of that. That is caused by a fungus. In that case, I would quarantine it far away from the other plants and repot it in fresh potting soil if you want to try and save it. But there is a good chance that it will die anyway if it has root rot. But if the plant responds to watering then it probably isn't root rot. The yellowing leaves could just indicate a magnesium deficiency.

The next, unlabeled picture also shows leaves with signs of nutrient deficiencies.

The darkening on the Sweet Aperitif leaves just looks like a response to a lot of sun exposure (anthocyanin pigment), but I think I see a little yellowing underneath the purple, so that could also indicate nutrient deficiency. On the Marmande, it looks like that leaf is dying and about to drop off the plant. Do any other leaves show any symptoms? I'm not sure that we should draw conclusions based on one old leaf that the plant is probably about to drop anyway.
Hi, thanks for the response! The Peri-Peri had such vibrant green leaves but in the last few weeks they have lost that vibrance and become more of a light green/ yellow despite being watered sufficiently and having seaweed nutrients every week since the first flowers and the roots look nice and strong. This year I grew a few variety's and some are still looking strong and others are looking weak and having leaf and bud drop! its only in the last 2 to 3 weeks that there has been a change. My Aji Limon, Wraith, Pink Tiger and Paper lantern are looking all fine and happy but the Peri-Peri, Orange tyger, Aji Omnicolour are the problems. They are all fed at the same time using the same feed but yet they all look a world apart! We however have had a washout of a summer in the UK, we have had a week of really hot weather and then a lot of rain in between this "summer"which can't have helped but have recently been applying a epsom salt foliar spray on 1tsp of salt per 1 litre. The tomato plants the problems seem to start further down and are creeping up the plants but have been sprayed with fungal spray but thought it may be blight? I'm not sure what other feeds to use other than the seaweed, or what cocktail of feeds would have the best results?! Thanks for the help though, It has been a learning curve growing thing for the first time which has mostly been fun!
 
Forget the deficiency guide. Almost nobody every solved a nutrient problem with that chart. When one thing is deficient, other things follow suit, and it's next to impossible to diagnose single nutrients. Treat your feeding issues holistically, by considering that you're probably looking at one major problem, that's cascading.

You need to make sure that you are planted in a proper mix, first and foremost. (heavy mixes are one of the biggest problems we see in this forum) From there, use a good balanced nutrient. (if you're a beginner) Chances are, your seaweed fertilizer is lacking something important.

Also, it would be good to kick that epsom spray, unless you know that you have a magnesium deficiency. It's a good bit of old wives' gardening, but if you're just applying it without needing it, you might be contributing to a problem. Not the least of which could be fungal. Roots are always the first route for nutrient uptake, and unless you're already growing optimally, there's not point foliar feeding for that extra 1%.
 
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Forget the deficiency guide. Almost nobody every solved a nutrient problem with that chart. When one thing is deficient, other things follow suit, and it's next to impossible to diagnose single nutrients. Treat your feeding issues holistically, by considering that you're probably looking at one major problem, that's cascading.

You need to make sure that you are planted in a proper mix, first and foremost. (heavy mixes are one of the biggest problems we see in this forum) From there, use a good balanced nutrient. (if you're a beginner) Chances are, your seaweed fertilizer is lacking something important.

Also, it would be good to kick that epsom spray, unless you know that you have a magnesium deficiency. It's a good bit of old wives' gardening, but if you're just applying it without needing it, you might be contributing to a problem. Not the least of which could be fungal. Roots are always the first route for nutrient uptake, and unless you're already growing optimally, there's not point foliar feeding for that extra 1%.
Thanks solid7 for the advice! I planted all the plants in a mix of peat free compost, vermiculite and perlite and a small amount of coir that I had left. The medium seems to be ok its not compacted and seems free draining enough so the roots should be happy! The only nutrients I have given them is liquid seaweed once a week and seemed to be ok for them for most of the season. I'm not sure what other nutrients would be recommended to help me achieve the healthiest plants that hopefully have a nice crop, so any advice on that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again.
 
Anaerobic species attack; since it's too wet. Some kind of stress signal of immune system. My seedlings break; that's why protection from microorganisms is how I can do mass cuttings from sterile culture technique.
 
Seaweed can be tricky, it is rich in elements and bioactive molecules and compounds.
It is generally used as a biostimulant for the cytokine content, which can increase nutrient uptake and it is also used as a trace mineral amendment and in both of these cases a little tends to go a long way.

Seaweed is seldom used as a primary fertilizer because over-application can cause issues. Elements in excess can often trigger symptoms akin to deficiency, when these symptoms appear people are often tempted to treat them by adding more of the same material that causes the issue in the first place.

Is the product you are using Neptune's Harvest Liquid Seaweed? (N:P:K= 0:0:1)
That company also makes fish emulsion fertilizers and the products are intended to be used together, they even sell a blend of them as well. The fish fertilizer has more (N) nitrogen but the seaweed has almost none, while the seaweed has (K) potassium and various micro-nutrients (often called trace elements). The fish doesn't have the trace elements that kelp does and together they form a more complete organic fertilizer system. The liquid seaweed is not a complete fertilizer, it is not intended to be used as the only source of nutrition. (I'm trying to be polite but honestly I won't purchase any of Neptune's Harvest fertilizers because there are superior options available)

Capsicum tend to be rather heavy feeders and need plenty of N, P and K (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) to thrive.

When a plant has everything it needs except one thing, that one thing is called a limiting factor. For example, light, water and nitrogen are all limiting factors for plants. In most cases plants get enough light and enough water, and often enough they get enough trace elements; to grow, however the main limiting factor for plant growth tends to be Nitrogen. To grow and thrive the plants require a steady and constant supply of nitrogen, but never in large amounts. Most synthetic fertilizers and organic fertilizers contain soluble salts that can cause salinity if evaporation rates exceed precipitation rates, Capsicum are sensitive to salinity and respond better to constantly available nutrients at relatively low concentrations (diluted 5 to 20X the usual dose) than they do occasional feedings of concentrated doses of food.

I hope this helps.
 
Thanks solid7 for the advice! I planted all the plants in a mix of peat free compost, vermiculite and perlite and a small amount of coir that I had left. The medium seems to be ok its not compacted and seems free draining enough so the roots should be happy! The only nutrients I have given them is liquid seaweed once a week and seemed to be ok for them for most of the season. I'm not sure what other nutrients would be recommended to help me achieve the healthiest plants that hopefully have a nice crop, so any advice on that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again.

Using a mix that is mostly compost is always a bit concerning. One can get away with it, where the weather is very dry. However, in wetter/more humid places, it just won't work, or starts displaying problems later in the season. I'm not a fan of high compost mixes, and where I grow, I refuse to use more than 10% added to any mix. Compost is also a very broad term, and doesn't always tell the whole story of what went into the compost. In a small percentage of cases, expended compost can create antagonistic issues with nutrients, and mimic deficiencies. Do you know what's in your compost?

That being said, I'd still say that the problem is your nutrient. Seaweed alone isn't a good solution. You can use Alaska fish, which will work as a standalone, or choose a good liquid or granules. For liquid, I always like CNS17 (Grow). Not a huge user of granules, but I do use a balanced Osmocote type fertilizer on all my ornamentals.

Peppers are super easy to grow, and any commercial balanced fertilizer is unlikely to ever be the limiting factor in a grow. The same can't be said for experimental ferts or incomplete nutrients.
 
Hello!
I have some problem
My Habanero Maya has yellow dots and yellow edges
Pot is 5 liters
Plants 1.2 meter
Soil is compost and coco peat
p/s Sorry for no good pictures

DJI_0618.JPG
 
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@Leo_Rossini27 Seaweed alone is not ideal fertilizer. I use seaweed to support my dry fertilizer and I have healthly plants.

@evolka looks like potassium deficiency. What is ur fertilizer? Could be also that ur mixture has a bit too low pH. I would just give a bit stronger fertlizer if u have good one.
 
@Leo_Rossini27 Seaweed alone is not ideal fertilizer. I use seaweed to support my dry fertilizer and I have healthly plants.

@evolka looks like potassium deficiency. What is ur fertilizer? Could be also that ur mixture has a bit too low pH. I would just give a bit stronger fertlizer if u have good one.
I use Valagro fertilizer
My water in home 5.6 pH evry time I use pH UP
I began to think that it was a deficiency of magnesium or iron, because I fed it with fertilizer 3.11.38
 
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I use Valagro fertilizer
My water in home 5.6 pH evry time I use pH UP
I began to think that it was a deficiency of magnesium or iron, because I fed it with fertilizer 3.11.38
That is quite low pH for tap water. Plants get more iron if soil pH is lower and more magnesium if higher pH. If your plant's soil is less than ideal for chilis they get plenty of iron if it's available. Iron helps for nutrient take-off but at the same time they will get less nutrients if pH is way too low. How strong of a solution do you give? You could try to get that water pH more up or give stronger solution.

Edit. You don't have to use pH UP. You can use just regular carbon and spring it to the soil and to irrigation water. It will raise pH and it's cheaper and longer lasting.
 
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what do you mean by regular carbon?
That is quite low pH for tap water. Plants get more iron if soil pH is lower and more magnesium if higher pH. If your plant's soil is less than ideal for chilis they get plenty of iron if it's available. Iron helps for nutrient take-off but at the same time they will get less nutrients if pH is way too low. How strong of a solution do you give? You could try to get that water pH more up or give stronger solution.

Edit. You don't have to use pH UP. You can use just regular carbon and spring it to the soil and to irrigation water. It will raise pH and it's cheaper and longer lasting.
I bring the solution to 6.8-7 pH in rare branches to 6.5 unfortunately we have water in our village with a low pH and at the same time a very low ppm of about 40
If I make a stronger solution, its pH is very low.
My pH of the soil I do not know
what do you mean by regular carbon?
 
what do you mean by regular carbon?

I bring the solution to 6.8-7 pH in rare branches to 6.5 unfortunately we have water in our village with a low pH and at the same time a very low ppm of about 40
If I make a stronger solution, its pH is very low.
My pH of the soil I do not know
what do you mean by regular carbon?
Charcoal. I use eco carbon to raise my mixture pH.
 
You have to season biochar before use. If yo don't, will just pull available nutrients out of your soil/media,and induce deficiencies. Not unlike what's being shown in the picture.

Suggest you do a quick google search for "charge biochar"t
 
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