soil ProudMarineDad's easy soil mix

miguelovic said:
IC > GC, Troll-it-up :D
 
Though the organics section is a ghost town, it has a lot of great information, regardless of the crop grown.
 
+1 ^^^ Approved membership ftw.  Not to mention - Cootz, Microbeman, Mad, JayKush, Heady, etc.  If I remember correctly LumperDawgs=Cootz tho??
 
I've got a large plastic tote with a lid I've been using to store left over mix in when not in use. I'm going to use this while the mix is cycling after I make it, and was wondering if I should leave the lid off or if it's ok to put the lid on?
 
MeatHead1313 said:
I've got a large plastic tote with a lid I've been using to store left over mix in when not in use. I'm going to use this while the mix is cycling after I make it, and was wondering if I should leave the lid off or if it's ok to put the lid on?
Leave it off or at least part way off as you want oxygen to get in or you will have anaerobic conditions which are not good.
 
I used a tarp on my re-amend batch and  try to keep it loose enough for some air, but covered enough to shed rain.
 
Today I fluffed it.
 

 
The molds or fungi are feasting on the alfalfa pellets, plus it's getting a little earthworm and arthropod pin-action too. :)
 
Proud Marine Dad said:
Leave it off or at least part way off as you want oxygen to get in or you will have anaerobic conditions which are not good.
 
Just started filling a few pots today.  I've got about 6-7 weeks until plants will go in the pots, so, I'm guessing additional water will be required periodically to keep the pots moist until then, right?
 
Roguejim said:
 
Just started filling a few pots today.  I've got about 6-7 weeks until plants will go in the pots, so, I'm guessing additional water will be required periodically to keep the pots moist until then, right?
Only if it's really hot or something. Soil in a pot will stay moist for a long time unless it's out in the hot sun.
 
Are your pots in direct sunlight? Mine were, and the surface began to get dry, and crusty. I gave them a quick spray, moved them into the shade, and then loosely covered them with a plastic tarp. Plenty of air getting to them. They seem to be staying moist on the surface, now. I take it that any sort of drying out is to be avoided?
 
A little drying on the surface won't harm anything but there is nothing wrong with keeping it moist. I am going to spray the surface of mine with some AACT to get the bacteria growing better.
 
PMD, thanks - great info. The GC thread is also a great find.

You seem to gravitate towards the Tomato Tone regardless of what you're growing. Is there something specific in Tomato Tone you like that maybe Garden Tone or Plant Tone doesn't contain?

Asking because I recently discovered Tomato Tone and am having the best grow of my short career. However, if I were growing canna, corn or lettuce, I'd probably look at the Garden Tone or other "Tones"... I suspect you'd stick with Tomato Tone. If that's a correct assumption, could you shed some light.

Good stuff. Thanks PMD.
 
6StringFire said:
PMD, thanks - great info. The GC thread is also a great find.

You seem to gravitate towards the Tomato Tone regardless of what you're growing. Is there something specific in Tomato Tone you like that maybe Garden Tone or Plant Tone doesn't contain?

Asking because I recently discovered Tomato Tone and am having the best grow of my short career. However, if I were growing canna, corn or lettuce, I'd probably look at the Garden Tone or other "Tones"... I suspect you'd stick with Tomato Tone. If that's a correct assumption, could you shed some light.

Good stuff. Thanks PMD.
I only bought the Tomato Tone because that was the recommended one on the canna forum for this mix. It also said that Garden Tone and Plant Tone were good alternatives. All of the "Tones" are good but many others would suffice from Dr. Earth or any other organic company.

Roguejim said:
I'd like to know how it compares with Dr. Earth's All Purpose fert, 4-4-4. 
They are probably comparable you would have to look at the label to see where they differed.
The reason for that amendment is just to have an all around fertilizer to complement the rest of the mix.
The absolute most important ingredient is of course the EWC (Earth Worm Castings), followed by the Kelp.
 
Question on cooking time:
 
How long can you let the prepared soil sit and cook? I'd love to mix up a pot or two in anticipation of some new plants - but would it be ok to let the mixture brew for 1, 2 even 3 or 4 months?
 
Seems like this would be really nice to have on hand, pre-cooked and ready to go.
 
6StringFire said:
Question on cooking time:
 
How long can you let the prepared soil sit and cook? I'd love to mix up a pot or two in anticipation of some new plants - but would it be ok to let the mixture brew for 1, 2 even 3 or 4 months?
 
Seems like this would be really nice to have on hand, pre-cooked and ready to go.
yes longer is fine
 
6StringFire said:
Question on cooking time:
 
How long can you let the prepared soil sit and cook? I'd love to mix up a pot or two in anticipation of some new plants - but would it be ok to let the mixture brew for 1, 2 even 3 or 4 months?
 
Seems like this would be really nice to have on hand, pre-cooked and ready to go.
It gets better with age. Absolutely. :)
 
Assuming for the moment you were using Pro-Mix BX as your peat base, would your ratio of perlite remain the same at 33%?
 
I don't know what the ratio of perlite is for Pro-Mix BX right out of the bag... but it seems a little higher than other bagged products I've seen. It also contains lime already so I wonder if your lime amendment ratio would remain the same as well?
 
6StringFire said:
Assuming for the moment you were using Pro-Mix BX as your peat base, would your ratio of perlite remain the same at 33%?
 
 
If it already contains perlite then adjust for it where it looks like 1/3 of the total mix.
 
 
It also contains lime already so I wonder if your lime amendment ratio would remain the same as well?
Not sure on that as I don't use bagged soils any longer and never will again. ;)
 
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