tutorial The Pest Guide

What Threat Level would you rate Broad Mites 1-10? Concider damage, control, prevention, and how ann

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Bou said:
 
HI Solid7, in fact the authors argue that compost tea, which is like a rich soup mostly made of bacterias, protozoans, nematods, etc. help the plants to defend themselves against nasties. Adding those benefical "microbes" creates a competition between them and the pathogens for space and leaf exudates. Maybe not a panacea but the concept looks trustable to me, while still being on the cheap side; I see it like one more biological weapon in the arsenal to stregthen the plants!
 
Yep, I understand the premise.  Truth be told, when I have excess compost tea, it goes on the plant.  But I still don't subscribe the theory that it actually helps strengthen the plant, or repel pests.  And regardless of how well published the author is, I don't believe that they've adequately demonstrated their theories, with research and testing.
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There are so many things that are popular ideas, and huge revenue generators.  Anybody who is an "expert" has a vested interest in promoting their ideas to the nth degree.  The point that I was, and still am making, is that if you want to spray the plant, you should.  I sometimes do. (mostly because I usually have more than I need in a single brew)  However, I would NOT rely on compost tea to be the miracle product that the author(s) claim it to be.  I still believe that compost tea is, far and away, most effective in the root zone. (from what I've seen, I still think they have a lot of work to do to qualify under which conditions it is most effective, as well - because again, it doesn't necessarily work the same in any substrate, in any given set of conditions)
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There might be mitigating factors that make compost tea more or less effective, under certain conditions.  Any of us who have grown in different parts of the country or world, know that not everything works just exactly the same, everywhere.  And if the author claims that compost tea is an effective innoculant/pesticide, I think they need to put a whole lot more effort into substantiating those claims, and in different parts of the world. (something that plant research, as a whole, largely neglects to do)
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I strongly advocate that everyone be a cautiously optimistic skepto-pessimist.  Especially with regards to subject matter upon which people have laid down multi-million dollar empires.  The hobby growing industry has supremely proven that they aren't our altruistic well wishing friends.
 
solid7 said:
 
However, I would NOT rely on compost tea to be the miracle product that the author(s) claim it to be.  
 
I understand your point of view and I agree that some proofs backing their theory (from legitimate studies) would be more than welcome! Anyway, I don't want to defend them but as I can recall, they have not writen anywhere that this was "tha" miracle product either ;) 
 
All in all, I think that this is a really good book and I would strongly recommend it to every gardener growing in soil.
 
Bou said:
 
I understand your point of view and I agree that some proofs backing their theory (from legitimate studies) would be more than welcome! Anyway, I don't want to defend them but as I can recall, they have not writen anywhere that this was "tha" miracle product either ;)
 
All in all, I think that this is a really good book and I would strongly recommend it to every gardener growing in soil.
 
I agree with you!  You should read their books.  They definitely give good info.  If for no other reason, I appreciate that they help people understand growing.  (because agriculture didn't just emerge with the advent of modern science)  Their subject matter is something of a modern revival/Renaissance.  Just don't let it become your religion.  Some have ;)
 
I disagree with the direction they go on the compost tea as a pest deterrent.  Some have been very vocal about it.  I just want to make clear that I'm not throwing the baby out with the bath.  But anyone that wants to test their claims out, with regards to pests and compost tea, I've got a 1/8 acre plot in Florida, that they're more than welcome to use as a test bed...  The only condition, is that they publish their results. :)
 
Fair enough! and don't worry too much about me, I'm not following any kind of preachers or other lemmings heading eye closed to that cliff :P
 
Was about to trim off a dead branch from my old chocolate reaper and saw these little guys....
Lacewing eggs that are soon to be aphid lions if I'm not mistaken. A great addition to my garden
 
Not sure why mom laid them there as I haven't see any aphids around...?
 

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Because she knows best. Possibly, a non-active feeding site offers the most protection from things like ants - which, like any good farmers, are conscious of threats to their livelihood.
 
solid7 said:
Because she knows best. Possibly, a non-active feeding site offers the most protection from things like ants - which, like any good farmers, are conscious of threats to their livelihood.
Like always you're probably correct,, again... lol
 
Hey Matt, hows the PNW treating you..?
 
Do aphid lions eat any others pests..?
 
acs1 said:
Like always you're probably correct,, again... lol
 
Hey Matt, hows the PNW treating you..?
 
Do aphid lions eat any others pests..?
Everything good. Missing my snakehead fishing, but work is banging.

Lacewing larvae are murderous, voracious predators, that prey on numerous plant pests. If you see them in high numbers, you'd do best to try to let them be your main weapon. I.e., no spraying. I don't really find that to be feasible by mid-summer. But I let it ride for as long as possible.
 
solid7 said:
Everything good. Missing my snakehead fishing, but work is banging.

Lacewing larvae are murderous, voracious predators, that prey on numerous plant pests. If you see them in high numbers, you'd do best to try to let them be your main weapon. I.e., no spraying. I don't really find that to be feasible by mid-summer. But I let it ride for as long as possible.
As usual will take your advice as thats what I've been doing anyhow. Seems my pest prblems so far this year are not nearly as bad as in years past... Probably shouldn't have said that.
 
Don't worry about those snake heads, I've been keeping their population in control, especially the giant ones around the aquatic center and Heron bay...lol. Man those things are delicious, especially in these times of empty meat counters at the stores...
 
Got these giant lake/swamp rats that are looking tasty, about to get the pellet gun out..lol
 
solid7 said:
Because she knows best. Possibly, a non-active feeding site offers the most protection from things like ants - which, like any good farmers, are conscious of threats to their livelihood.
By the way, got no ants, no aphid ant farms, for a year now since I adopted the tubs with a constant water moat all around my pots.
 
I found some fireflies/ lightning bugs on my pepper plants. Question is, are they good, bad, or neutral to pepper plants?


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PtMD989 said:
I found some fireflies/ lightning bugs on my pepper plants. Question is, are they good, bad, or neutral to pepper plants?
 
Good/neutral.  The larvae break down organic matter in the soil/mix. At minimum, they are no threat to your plants.
 
I haven't read through the whole thread, just the first post, and i have been using the mentioned method to try to get rid of aphids but they just keep popping up....
 
I only have seedlings and small plants at the moment and the annoying thing is that these aphids tend to congregate at the most sensitive tips of the plants, which are also the most sensitive to the treatment of soap water- aarrgghh.  :rolleyes:
 
Will i have to keep washing these seedlings every few days until it's time to plant them out? And then is it probable that they will persist outside?
 
Thanks for any help.
 
Dr. Weird said:
I haven't read through the whole thread, just the first post, and i have been using the mentioned method to try to get rid of aphids but they just keep popping up....
 
I only have seedlings and small plants at the moment and the annoying thing is that these aphids tend to congregate at the most sensitive tips of the plants, which are also the most sensitive to the treatment of soap water- aarrgghh.  :rolleyes:
 
Will i have to keep washing these seedlings every few days until it's time to plant them out? And then is it probable that they will persist outside?
 
Thanks for any help.
I wouldn't use soap water again.. Not on a pepper. I've learned the hard lesson. Don't listen to that CrazyFox that said soap was safe for peppers, he was off base! Using soap on peppers is a little crazy. 
My pepper I treated last fall, with a really dilute wash, didn't die.. It looks great! I mean, at a glance. Then you notice all these leaves that look like they have frost damage. I've tried to explain it away as something else, but it looks like overfeeding damage I've seen with foliar feeding applications. I haven't feed them anything since then and the leaves still come out this way. Not all of them, but enough of them. 
I refused to use Aza too, and also stopped fighting them.. To just let the beneficials have at it. It was just a constant war the whole winter.. Benefiicals were never able to get any numbers up because of light kills and other environmental factors I wasn't able to control effectively. Hence, my aphid problems didn't resolve until I put them back outside and exposed them to the full array of predation. 
I think, if I had been on top of it, I could have gotten control with just water swabbing.. But that is pure speculation at this point. Isolation can be almost impossible with a standard setup because of light drawing and animal vectoring. I had the stinking cats giving aphids rides upstairs into the bathroom from the first floor. 
 
CraftyFox said:
I wouldn't use soap water again.. Not on a pepper. I've learned the hard lesson. Don't listen to that CrazyFox that said soap was safe for peppers, he was off base! Using soap on peppers is a little crazy. 
My pepper I treated last fall, with a really dilute wash, didn't die.. It looks great! I mean, at a glance. Then you notice all these leaves that look like they have frost damage. I've tried to explain it away as something else, but it looks like overfeeding damage I've seen with foliar feeding applications. I haven't feed them anything since then and the leaves still come out this way. Not all of them, but enough of them. 
I refused to use Aza too, and also stopped fighting them.. To just let the beneficials have at it. It was just a constant war the whole winter.. Benefiicals were never able to get any numbers up because of light kills and other environmental factors I wasn't able to control effectively. Hence, my aphid problems didn't resolve until I put them back outside and exposed them to the full array of predation. 
I think, if I had been on top of it, I could have gotten control with just water swabbing.. But that is pure speculation at this point. Isolation can be almost impossible with a standard setup because of light drawing and animal vectoring. I had the stinking cats giving aphids rides upstairs into the bathroom from the first floor. 
 
It is an honorable thing to make updates to one's stated position, when new opinions become available.
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Let me add one thing to the mix here: I can't completely discourage the use of soaps as an option - even though I am, as you know, well aware of the damage that it can cause.  This, like many things, is a completely regional issue.  I've just done my first grow in the PNW.  Overall, my results were pretty good, even though my timing was terrible.  But my insect problem was a wildly different animal - yet again - from what I experienced in other places.
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I didn't use anything on my plants out here, other than my fingers.  I had 3 different types of aphids show up.  I had one pepper plant and 7 tomato plants (which they basically left alone).  I just squished them.  No problem.  It lasted about a week, and we were done.  I couldn't get away with that in Florida.  I suspect many others couldn't, in their part of the world, either.  I've had problems getting the bennies to stay, and they can't outcompete the farming ants.  It's such a multi-pronged problem.  Every year back home, it literally seems like an insect armageddon.  I have to choose my battles. During some parts of the year, it pays to do nothing.  Later on, I might need to do something.  But it seems like I always have to have a plan to mitigate whatever course of action I take.  I am always trying to find some better way to stay ahead.
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This year, I'm going to go to bigger raised beds, and no fertilizer.  Nothing but organic matter (since I'll have enough surface area to make it practical) and possibly some shade cloth.  I still suspect that there is something about using fertilizer - yes, even organics - that attracts insects.  I still anticipate insect problems.  I will still keep mild soap solutions in my arsenal.  But using them sparingly, or in some alternative way, where possible.
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I had an early problem with snails and slugs out here.  Huge ones.  Every time one of them even so much as touched a tomato leaf, the leaf would wither and die.  I can't fault a critter for wanting to eat, so instead of killing them all, I just put out a lettuce leaf every night.  Like 20 would show up.  At the end of the week, I'd gather them all up (once they were used to showing up there in one place), and I relocated them.  Easy solution. Get them 100 feet away, and they won't come back. 
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There's always another way waiting to be discovered.  Chemical solutions are quick and immediately effective - but they have drawbacks that show up somewhere, somehow.  You don't eve get something for nothing.
 
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