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pics Took a step up to LEDs. Pics inside.

pwnguin said:
I've been tossing the idea around about building a custom panel. Not sure about the ratios in terms of spectrum, yet. I've settled on the 3w star LEDs, just need to figure out a target wattage/array layout.
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In our experiment, hydroponically grown tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum L.) were grown using a full factorial design with three light intensities (high: 135 μmol·m−2·s−1, medium: 115 μmol·m−2·s−1, and low: 100 μmol·m−2·s−1) at three red (661 nm) to blue (449 nm) ratio levels (5:1, 10:1, and 19:1). Secondary treatments for comparison were 100% HPS, 100% red LED light supplied from above the plant, 100% red LED light supplied below the plant, a 50%:50% LED:HPS mixture, and a control (no supplemental lighting). Both runs of the experiment lasted 120 days during the Summer–Fall 2011 and the Winter–Spring 2011–12. The highest biomass production (excluding fruit) occurred with the 19:1 ratio (red to blue) with increasing intensity resulting in more growth, whereas a higher fruit production was obtained using the 5:1 ratio. The highest marketable fruit production (fruit over 90 g) was obtained with the 50%:50% LED:HPS followed by 5:1 high and 19:1 high. Consistently the 5:1 high performed well in every category. LEDs have been shown to be superior in fruit production over HPS alone, and LEDs can improve tomato fruit production when mixed with HPS.
 
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hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/49/4/448.abstract
 
The scientists subjected hydroponically grown tomato plants to three light intensities at three red-to-blue ratio levels. Secondary lighting treatments used for comparison included 100% high-pressure sodium (HPS), 100% red LED light supplied from above the plant, 100% red LED light supplied below the plant, a 50%:50% LED:HPS mixture, and a control (no supplemental lighting). Both runs of the experiment were implemented for 120 days during two (summer-fall and winter-spring) seasons.
 
Results showed that the five highest number of fruit-producing light treatments were 5:1 high (385 fruit), 5:1 medium (358 fruit), 5:1 low (341 fruit), 19:1 high (315 fruit), and 100% LED (310 fruit). "Overall, the highest producing LED treatments consistently outperformed the high-pressure sodium treatment alone," the authors said. "These treatments can be considered an improvement over traditional HPS lighting for greenhouses."
 
Outcomes also revealed that high irradiance levels resulted in the highest vegetative biomass and fruit production for all ratios. The results showed that the highest biomass production (excluding fruit) occurred using the 19:1 ratio, while higher fruit production was obtained using the 5:1 ratio. The highest marketable fruit production resulted from the 50%:50% LED:HPS treatment. The authors said that the 5:1 high treatment performed well in every category.
 
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http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/06/140623131205.htm
 
I wouldnt have settled on 3w LEDs.

I used 4 blue and 21 red on my panel and peppers loved it most. Of those 21: 4 were infrared and the rest were almost a split between 625nm and 660nm but with a few more of the deep red. All 4 blue were the same.
 
These were all the same brand 5w star LEDs.
 
If you want to know where I bought them check out mouser.com. But right after they came out with 10w LEDs that put out 4x the light. :banghead:
Also look up Emerson Effect if you havent already heard of it for why I had 4 infrareds.
 
PAR refers to the shape and size of the bulb. Kelvins are LED measurements. Please if your going to try and correct me, at least know what your talking about
 
Hey Freekie, you got a total of five posts, and all of them have been made on this thread messing with me, and another person. Is this how it's going to be?
 
Wood55 said:
Hey Freekie, you got a total of five posts, and all of them have been made on this thread messing with me, and another person. Is this how it's going to be?
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You're the only one messing around, you should know that in a thread about growlights that if someone mentions PAR he/she is talking about "Photosynthetically active radiation" and not something that fell on your head.
 
Freekie said:
Smokemaster your posts are nigh-unreadable.
Also lumens isn't accurate, as lumens is only about how humans perceive the intensity of the light and not how plants, a 30000 lumen lightbulb is useless if it emits for example only green light.
 
And you can easily build your own great panel with Vero Bridgelux or Cree LED cobs.
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I guessed right-you started spreading crap.From your 6th post or probably earlier.
You didn't read my post at all in the context I posted it in.
Amp. X voltage = Watts - as the vendors don't advertised it as.
 
THE WAY THE VENDORS SELL/AND missrepresent THEIR CRAP.
 
NM and WATTS used Means everything,if it is in the spectrum plants use.
Same NM as the human eye sees,by the way for the most part.
 
I don't understand the B.S. about Lux with LEDS.
They LEDS,CAN"T produce NM in more than a specific range per LED.
YES they are graded by NM and Lm-AT whatever they are SAID to be tested at.
As with everything for sale,if you can't dazzle them with brilliance,baffle them with B.S.
 
JUST a few LEDS out of a gazillion,as with almost ANY other product on the market are used as a data sheet.
VERY few Vendors say what percentage THEIR Leds put out of whatever NM they sell their LED as.
 
 
Vendors use the VOLTS X AMPS thing out of context to get Trolls like you Ammo for giving people crap about nothing.
See your PAR post.
 
Your post actually agrees with mine,pretty much,just different words posted to miss represent my wording.
Hope your ego got stroked.
 
Since LEDS are more accurate,depending on quality control/the maker,nm etc. varries.
Their LEDS are assembled at and what was actually tested.
SEE 1 Watt LEDS run at higher Watts to sell as 3 watt LEDS.
It's all over the net for years.
Backs up my like for ! watters.
Don't forget I can get more LM and NM from 1 watters cheaper.
Or could 5 years ago.
 
BUT Lumens is usually accurate as far as running them-the panels output in BOTH LM. and NM,IF they are actually run at the right voltage and amps.
Volts controls nm and watts controls lm for LEDS.
As others already posted,a lot of panels are under driven,don't put out the LM they advertise.Probably not the NM either.
Probably due to how long they want their product to last past warranty.Run them low for longer life,advertise max. Watts and voltage to say what their panel actually does.
 
If my post sucks as far as you are concerned,why didn't you give the posts about people finding out the 300 watt panels were USING less watts?
 
Ya couldn't be a Troll could you?One with no actual experience using or building an LED light source?
 
I'd never buy a commercial pannel.
I see people paying big bucks (though the price is dropping these days) rather than building my own-FOR PEPPERS.
 
But I assume you are an expert and my panels are just LUCKILY working for my grow for the last 5+ years.
My plants must be mutants and out of the ordinary I guess.
Until I was doing Chemo I accidently had 400 plants 2X a year growing for a few pods indoors for pure seeds then put out outside for harvest.
Of coarse you know better.
 
I only am able to grow about 100 plants 2X a season now.
Must be because my 1/2 to 1 watt 10mm and 1 watt stars don't work. LEDS don't work,Especially since I use ALL chinese LEDS.
 
smokemaster said:
I guessed right-you started spreading crap.From your 6th post or probably earlier.
You didn't read my post at all in the context I posted it in.
Amp. X voltage = Watts - as the vendors don't advertised it as.
 


If my post sucks as far as you are concerned,why didn't you give the posts about people finding out the 300 watt panels were USING less watts?
 
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Because it's only logical that those 300 watt panels are underdriven since they're not going to put in an extra driver for every individual wavelength
The red leds have a different amperage/volt were they're at their most efficient than the blue leds etc. etc. so companies cut costs by putting in a driver that works well for both at the expense of cutting half the power of what those leds can achieve.
Or you use the latest Bridgelux full spectrum cobs and you don't have to worry about how much watts they're really using, they're also far more efficient than generic chinese ones.
 
Also I don't really care how much you've grown with 1/2 to 1 watt leds, the cheapest brands have CFL-tier efficacy and since CFLs also work so should those LEDs. But just because something works does not equal it being ideal.
 
And your post is still nigh-unreadable, if you were an author your books would be in the horrible prose section.
 
You once again miss repreesent LEDs.
To compare 2 light sources for grow lights,you should compare lm of plant usable light in lm/watt.
Leds are about the same as fluoros BUT put out a more specific range of nm than other light sources.
That  makes leds better for grow lights in a lot of cases.
 
smokemaster said:
You once again miss repreesent LEDs.
To compare 2 light sources for grow lights,you should compare lm of plant usable light in lm/watt.
Leds are about the same as fluoros BUT put out a more specific range of nm than other light sources.
That  makes leds better for grow lights in a lot of cases.
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You're the one misreading this time.
I only said if CFLs work, then so will the cheap Chinese LEDs.
Even if their spectrum was the same and their efficacy, then LEDs would still be better since LEDs shine diractly downwards while CFLs also shine a portion of their light upwards which is just inefficient even with a reflector.
 
Besides you also have full spectrum LED cobs (Cree/Bridgelux/Nichia) that have roughly the same spectrum as a CFL bulb but with 2,5 times the efficacy and a much better efficiency.
 
Here, a full spectrum Cree CXA3070 cob on a heatsink connected to its driver, 51Watt on little more than square inch of LED.
 
AuwthwZ.jpg
 
https://youtu.be/4Dujx-HdOBc

here are my seedlings at approx 3 weeks. They started under cfls.

just figured I'd grab a short clip so anyone curious can see what the mini setup looks like
 
smokemaster said:
I only am able to grow about 100 plants 2X a season now.
Must be because my 1/2 to 1 watt 10mm and 1 watt stars don't work.
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How many 10mm's are you using?
These?
 
$%28KGrHqRHJDgFHlJi2qBVBR8JZkn6nQ~~60_57.JPG
 
ChiliNoob said:
Looks like Mars hydro are clearing out their old stock - these units were about $110 each last year. Can't beat them at this price.
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here's the dilemma I face, should I stock up on a few of these or wait for something new to be released?
 
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