pics Took a step up to LEDs. Pics inside.

Wood55 said:
PAR refers to the shape and size of the bulb. Kelvins are LED measurements. Please if your going to try and correct me, at least know what your talking about
Click to expand...
 
This couldn't be more wrong
 
About the !0mm Leds.
The ones pictured I use as vertical lighting on my shelves.
Shelves are 18in X 48in.
 
They come in nm and sometimes more LM than 1 watt stars.
125 +/- fit on a perf board - 9x12?
I don't cool them.BUT the LM's  And 2 watt resistots NEED a fan on the box I have them in.
 
The LEDS are on a panel,the resistors and LM'as are next to a power supply in a box.
A 13 wire (for sprinkler systems) runs to my pannels.
Positive runs to the board from my supply,negative runs to each string (to get the nm and LM) so I get my different voltages for each string.
An added + is IF an LED fries,I only loose that string and LED.
A single driver would over drive the rest of the LEDS when 1 fried and a LOT of LEDS would be lost...
 
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]For the  data (ma.,voltage,mcd),Please find as follows.[/SIZE]
 
 
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Red - 625nm (avaliable to make)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]10mm 5-chips[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Voltage :1.9-2.3[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Current:100mA[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Intensity:160,000mcd[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]640nm (avaliable to make)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]10mm 5-chips[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Voltage :1.9-2.3[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Current:100mA[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Intensity:130,000mcd[/SIZE]
 
 
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]660nm(avaliable to make,but the intensity is very dimmer)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]10mm 5-chips[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Voltage :1.9-2.3[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Current:100mA[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Intensity:70,000mcd[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]blue - 465-475nm[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]10mm 5-chips[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Voltage :3.0-3.6[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Current:100mA[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Intensity:155,000mcd[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]590nm (Avaliable to make)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]10mm 5-chips[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Voltage :1.9-2.3[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Current:100mA[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]Intensity:150,000mcd[/SIZE]
 

[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]100ma[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]3.2(465nm)-3.4v(470nm)-3.6v(475nm)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]465-475nm[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]150,000mcd[/SIZE]
 
100ma
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]1.9(625nm)-2.1v(630nm)-2.3v(636nm)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]150,000mcd at 2.1v[/SIZE]
 

[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]100ma[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]3.2(465nm)-3.4v(470nm)-3.6v(475nm)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]465-475nm[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]150,000mcd at 3.4v[/SIZE]
 
300ma
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]1.9(625nm)-2.1v(630nm)-2.3v(635nm)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]280,000mcd at 2.1v[/SIZE]

300ma
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]1.9v(625nm)-2.1v(630nm)-2.3v(635nm)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]40 degree angle[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14.6666666666667px]290,000mcd at 2.1v-typical[/SIZE]
By messing with voltage I tried to get as many different nm as possible on my shelves in as many LM as possible.
You HAVE to shut them off to look at your plants and put mylar over the open end of my shelves or you'll see spots for a while after even a few seconds of looking at the shelves when they were on.
 
I have stars above and 10mm vertically on 3 sides.
 
No pics, I don't post pics anymore on the internet.
 
I got tired of Google search making my property free for anyone to use without my permission/giving me credit...
 
Even though I made my bucket private it doesn't matter.
Sites let people copy MY stuff as if it's their property.
NO PICS from me of anything anymore...
 
I'm not interested in messing with jumping through hoops to protect my property.
I'll just not post my pics anymore.
I don't care if people want pics anymore.
I didn't post them for an ego rush or whatever in the first place.
 
These LEDS might only work the way I use them,not your grow or whatever.
 
I ran into some FREE $ and bought in quantities so I got a good price.
I think I averaged UNDER $.45 each in general.
I think I got 800 stars for under a couple hundred $.
Been 5+ yrs ago.
I run them in strings,not with drivers.
I use power supplies from computers,resistors and LM 517's (I think ,I forget the #).
Not the most efficient way BUT I can control voltage and MA for individual strings on each board better that way.
I wanted to run the same LED to get all the different wave lengths each led could put out.
A LOT different than a commercial panel that under drives or overdrives LEDS to be able to run all the LEDS on 1 power supply/driver.
 
Whenever these LEDS fry,I'm going to go to white LEDS in 5000-6500K i think.
Back when I built these panels they didn't have the whites in the nm or lm I wanted at a decent price.
Now they sell Spots for cheap in the k I want.
I'll post about it when these LEDS fry.
All the talk about cheap Chinese made LEDS hasn't proved to be true for me so far.
I bet a LOT of 1 watt LEDS are sold as 3 watt ones.AS posted on the net.
People over drove them thinking they were 3 watt LEDS and they fried really fast.3 watt ones run at 700ma.
one driver = more fried leds.
I only fry 1 string If an LED doesn't die-cause a short that lets the others not get juice or lets them get over driven.
 
Lots of difference between 300-350 ma and twice that for 3 watt ones (
That would go a LONG way in explaining why my 1WAtt ones do so well.Chinese or not.
I only know what I've used.
As I always say,some vendors stuff is "if you can't dazzle them with brilliance,baffle them with BS."
 
THP wouldn't allow the data sheets for some of the LEDs I use to be posted here.
 
PS.I built these at work,so labor isn't a problem.I got paid to build the panels.I'm a security Guard,killing time is a must or you get REALLY BORED at dark thirty between rounds most times. LOL
Every cent I spemt was $ I won at work im yje safety bingo.
A couple of $500.  before taxes and bagles for all in the morning.
I still like my control +/- with NM of my home made stuff over anything I see pre made on the market so far.
Mine I think are a lot better.FOR MY GROW.
 
 
 
lol some really clueless ppl in this thread
 
I refer you to the mccree curve
 
here it is adjusted for action spectrum
 

 
 
and here is the spectral analysis of cree cobs
 

 
  notice how the peaks match the action spectra? 
considering you can get 150-170 Lumens per watt with these without breaking a sweat(up to 205 if u wanna run them soft) id suggest to skip the reds n blues and go with white
 
and dont say lumens is useless we need to know the PAR (which is not smth u droped on ur head btw) or ill have to whip out the calculator and start giving you ppfd and effeciency % plus if u understood the graphs u will see that whith these chips Lumens give us a pretty good indication
 
Hold on here.  The second chart is counter-intuitive.  The nominally higher temperature sources have a lower output at higher wavelengths?  Explain please. 
 
thinking of building my own, getting a bit tired all the heat with HID.
 
it is mind blowing at the costs of the premade units though. mars wants around 400-500 dollars for a unit that only covers a 2x4 area, unless i buy an LED unit that was designed in 2010.. i calculated i will spend around $60 total in parts. only difference is the housing won't look as fancy. i'm wondering how they're still in business selling at these prices.. must be huge profit gains considering you can buy a 50 pack of 5W diodes for 30 bucks... and the units are nothing more than a led, driver and couple heatsinks and some fans.
 
 
DMF said:
Hold on here.  The second chart is counter-intuitive.  The nominally higher temperature sources have a lower output at higher wavelengths?  Explain please. 
Click to expand...
 
i don't think i fully understand ur question
 
higher temperature u mean colder? like 5000K then yes, higher wavelength(nm) is more red-so 5000k will have less red(higher wavelengths) and more blue(lower wavelengths) compared to 2700k
 
higher Kelvin is lower nm perhaps thats what confusing you?
 
blue is in the 400nm range which is 6500K
red is in the 600nm range which is 2700k
 
 
 
also good to note that chart shows power(electrical consumption) not photon production
all white LEDs are blue then they use remote phosphor to change them to red- so the colder K will be more efficient hence the reds consume more power 
 
here it is adjusted for photon output
 
 
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