soil Transplant from hydro to soil

Capsicum Select

Capsicum Select

So I have run into a slight problem in that the peppers I have in my hydro system are massive and have run out of space to grow inside. I've read in some other threads regarding transplanting from hydro to soil but no real specifics on it. If anyone could answer some general questions it would be greatly appreciated.

When transplanting is it necessary to keep the soil moister than usual for peppers just so the roots can establish themselves with less shock in the soil?

Should I just transplant net cup and all? I don't foresee getting the roots out without damaging them to the point of killing the plants.

Would a 7gal root pouch be adequate or should I go a little bigger into what I think are 10gal planters I have? Plants are about 2ft tall 1.5ft wide. Root mass is pretty monstrous and healthy.
 
I've done it 6-8 times earlier this spring and nothing has died. The tobasco really wasn't happy about it but it perked up eventually. One cayenne still looks droopy though after two months in the soil but it is making pods and new growth. It just looks sad. The thai, ghost pepper and brainstrains I pulled out of the hydro tank all took to the soil real well.
 
Those were all in 3.75" net cups and I just left them in cup, there was no pulling the roots out of there. I'll reclaim the cup in the fall when I compost the plant.
 
Thank you all for the responses. Looks like I don't have much to worry about. I will be transplanting this weekend and I think I will actually put them in the bigger planters I have from tomatoes last year.
 
millworkman said:
I do it often with no isses.  Generally I submerge the entire pot in water so the mix gets absolutely soaked and the roots arent in a bunch with an air pocket in them.
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+14
 
A trick I've used in the past was to increase the length of time between watering before transplanting into soil.  Obviously this only works with certain systems, but anything you can do to help harden the roots off before transplanting will lessen the shock.
 
Monkey Hunter said:
A trick I've used in the past was to increase the length of time between watering before transplanting into soil.  Obviously this only works with certain systems, but anything you can do to help harden the roots off before transplanting will lessen the shock.
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That's a good idea. Unfortunately it's a little late for two of them haha. Although my timer only waters them every 45mins as it is in the hydro.

Upon transplanting to lessen the shock would it be advantageous to keep them a bit over watered?

Transplanted last night and you can see how they are now saying "Where the f are we now?!" My instinct says to give them another soak even though the soil is still pretty wet from soaking them. What do you guys think?

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Been there, done that.
Expect them to pout about it for a bit.
 
Did it in almost mud using the hydro juice for the planting, allowed to dry out till droopy before watering.
Lasted longer between watering/drooping each time.
 
Had to destroy my ghetto hydro lid to get them out.
 
Thanks Grotox.
 
Kinda figured they were just a little shocked from the move.  First time messing around with any hydro stuff so its all a learning experience.  First real grow season for that matter.
 
You don't want to keep them over-watered as that'll drown the roots and stress them more.  In hydro they can handle lots of water as they also have lots of air.  In soil the water displaces the air, so it needs to dry between watering's or the roots drown.  The only way around it would be to use coco or a coco/perlite mix as they won't get over saturated.
 
Yup. first time trying to go from hydro to dirt here also.
Good quality, well draining soil mix and the hydro juice they came out of for the first drowning upon potting.
Used regular H2O after, and noticed they needed less each watering.
Been a couple of months, and the hardest to pot up is podding like crazy.
 
It might depend on the plant.
I gave a LARGE plant to a friend and it had no problems going from a hydro setup to soil.
The plant was easily 5ft. X 6+ft.or more wide.It filled the back of a Scion with the seats down and still went into the front seat.
It was in a hydro setup that was 20in. long X 10in. deep X 9in wide.
my kitchen plant.



It was bigger when I gave it a new home.

Small plants and cuttings seem to have a harder time than bigger plants I think.
It seems bigger plants might be more able to adapt.
As a side note.
I never check PH or nutes in my hydro.
I just add water until the plants look like they aren't happy.Then I change nutes and or flush the grow media.
The kitchen plant gets a flush because of the media it's in.
The 5 gal. buckets are in small baskets and only need a water change.They don't need washout.
 
It could be that large plants have a more developed root system that would include some tougher roots.  That may make the difference, with small plants all their roots would be soft and prone to shock.  Just a theory though, could be lotsa hot air blowing outta somewhere...
 
Wow Smokemaster that thing is huge for in the kitchen haha!
 
Monkey Hunter - That seems pretty logical too me. Have a little more in the nutrient stores to deal with all the shock too i bet.
 
They are starting to do a little better.  Its about 95 here today so hardening off is a slow process but all the others are doing well.  The above transplants have gotten super wilting in the afternoon heat. They should bounce back in the morning though. Letting them dry out a little bit should help too.
 
smokemaster said:
It might depend on the plant.
I gave a LARGE plant to a friend and it had no problems going from a hydro setup to soil.
The plant was easily 5ft. X 6+ft.or more wide.It filled the back of a Scion with the seats down and still went into the front seat.
It was in a hydro setup that was 20in. long X 10in. deep X 9in wide.
my kitchen plant.



It was bigger when I gave it a new home.

Small plants and cuttings seem to have a harder time than bigger plants I think.
It seems bigger plants might be more able to adapt.
As a side note.
I never check PH or nutes in my hydro.
I just add water until the plants look like they aren't happy.Then I change nutes and or flush the grow media.
The kitchen plant gets a flush because of the media it's in.
The 5 gal. buckets are in small baskets and only need a water change.They don't need washout.
Click to expand...
I just go with ppm.
When it gets high, I use regular water. Opposite of what you do, but same idea.
Nute till it glows, then water it down.
Changeout if it starts looking funky, but they were ready for potting anyway this go around.
 
Prolly giving up on hydro grow due to limited space------overwinter instead---- but brother is going full hydro so, not missing podage.
Couple of aerogardens for hydro sprouting, and space to pot them up a bit and grow till spring has sprung is about my limit.
 
Time to build an addition??? :snooty:
Well, at least I tried.
 
I usually mix a Gal. of nutes when I start filling the system,it holds a Gal.
I let it run only adding water as needed,usually 1 pint to 1qt. a day.
Every so often I drain the water/nutes and add just water to rinse out the media.
I drain that after a couple days and start over with fresh nutes.
There is no schedule that I use.If a plant doesn't look happy or I get bored,I drain and rinse it out and start with new nutes.
I use Hydrogrow fert.Cheap and works great.I add a shot of Ca. Acetate every so often during budding.
Our water here is usually PH of 7+/-.

That was just the biggest plant at the time

I used to hear the fridge open and then the microwave run at night...I think my dog had a deal with my plants for sharing midnight munchies.



Demon Habanero,growing at the same time



Red Savina



Galopagoense

 
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